Saw builds
- Thread starter jmssaws
- Start date
- Local time
- 7:03 PM
- User ID
- 360
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2015
- Messages
- 23,025
- Reaction score
- 146,985
- Location
- East Jordan, MI
I have 2 that look just like that. The ol' 90° elbow trick
Brewz
Free Range Human in a Tax Farm
- Local time
- 10:03 AM
- User ID
- 550
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2016
- Messages
- 4,217
- Reaction score
- 14,309
- Location
- Hunter Valley - Australia
Ok you guys have me thinking now
Saw owner has agreed to have the OEM cylinder ported so that will end well for him for sure!
I will port the LRB cylinder for my 064 with numbers I wouldnt normally go near to see how it runs.
Only one way to find out and I do trust you guys
Brewz
Free Range Human in a Tax Farm
- Local time
- 10:03 AM
- User ID
- 550
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2016
- Messages
- 4,217
- Reaction score
- 14,309
- Location
- Hunter Valley - Australia
Hey, I have a nice Husky 181 closed base thin ring piston???
- Local time
- 7:03 PM
- User ID
- 522
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2016
- Messages
- 4,119
- Reaction score
- 27,018
- Location
- Iowa City
I'd use an end mill to cut the face of the spark plug hole until the plug had just the unthreaded lip is sticking out or the strap is in jeopardy of being hit by the piston.
jmssaws
Banneded
- Local time
- 6:03 PM
- User ID
- 291
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2015
- Messages
- 10,024
- Reaction score
- 37,292
- Location
- Missouri
A 85cc 064 is necessarily what I would consider a long bar saw,they can run one pretty good but they make better 24 or 28" fast blocking saws and 82 won't hurt that.
Depending on what you do with the transfers but my best running ones are 102 122 78-80 with worked transfers.
Leave the transfers alone and you can get by with more exhaust.
Exhaust doesn't have to be high to turn rpm either. Transfers will give you rpm
Chainsaw Jim
Con Artist LLC
- Local time
- 4:03 PM
- User ID
- 836
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2016
- Messages
- 4,014
- Reaction score
- 90
- Location
- Springfield Oregon
How's it run?
Chainsaw Jim
Con Artist LLC
- Local time
- 4:03 PM
- User ID
- 836
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2016
- Messages
- 4,014
- Reaction score
- 90
- Location
- Springfield Oregon
I haven't ran it yet. I still need to finish up with the muffler.
blsnelling
Friend of the Riff Raff
- Local time
- 7:03 PM
- User ID
- 447
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2016
- Messages
- 1,114
- Reaction score
- 6,230
- Location
- Franklin, OH
They'll feed a ported 395 or 390.
Chainsaw Jim
Con Artist LLC
- Local time
- 4:03 PM
- User ID
- 836
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2016
- Messages
- 4,014
- Reaction score
- 90
- Location
- Springfield Oregon
Drill out the metering seat about .015 more than it is. You may need to increase popoff a wee bit after that if it tries to flood.
Chainsaw Jim
Con Artist LLC
- Local time
- 4:03 PM
- User ID
- 836
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2016
- Messages
- 4,014
- Reaction score
- 90
- Location
- Springfield Oregon
I Don't know if you've done this before. After drilling the hole you can use a larger bit to bevel it. When doing this I hold the bit very straight by hand and spin it in reverse direction so the cutters don't bite and ruin it. It doesn't take very much at all. To finish it off I'll sharpen a round toothpick to match the shape of the metering pin. Then I chuck it up in the handpiece to high speed polish with it. I use wd-40 type stuff for compound.
There's no going back with this mod. I've ruined one good HD carb doing this and that's because I didn't know what I was doing at first. Those metering seats are made of a softer material and drill bits fly through em with little to no resistance.
One example of a small carb used to pump a higher volume of fuel is on the Poulan Pro 325. Its a 50cc saw with a little itty bitty wt walbro carb on it. The intake and bore of this carb is 15mm, with a tiny venruri. If I have to guess I'll say 10-12mm. But the metering passage is damn near large enough to put my finger through. AND...Lol... it still has a flood limiter under the little brass plug on the side, just like the older big tilly carbs.
Last edited:
Brewz
Free Range Human in a Tax Farm
- Local time
- 10:03 AM
- User ID
- 550
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2016
- Messages
- 4,217
- Reaction score
- 14,309
- Location
- Hunter Valley - Australia
What's the best way to bypass the flood limiters?
Just blank them off?
Just blank them off?
Deets066
AKA Deetsey
- Local time
- 7:03 PM
- User ID
- 290
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2015
- Messages
- 15,442
- Reaction score
- 73,564
- Location
- Illinois
It has no power in the cut, but I think I have other issues. This saw was not running before hand so it's hard to say what's up with it. I'll get her dialed in.
I did try this...
Chainsaw Jim
Con Artist LLC
- Local time
- 4:03 PM
- User ID
- 836
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2016
- Messages
- 4,014
- Reaction score
- 90
- Location
- Springfield Oregon
I don't know if the newer style intelli carbs will run right without the snorkel or not. It seems like they don't, but I haven't focused on determining that yet. Maybe try an older WJ-6a?
Chainsaw Jim
Con Artist LLC
- Local time
- 4:03 PM
- User ID
- 836
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2016
- Messages
- 4,014
- Reaction score
- 90
- Location
- Springfield Oregon
The type with the brass screw on the side are simple. You can use a hole punch or whatever to cut a little tiny plug from either gasket material or aluminum can which fits under the screw to plug the passage.
I would probably leave a flood limiter in place if I we're using a saw for milling.
