Return of the File-O-Plate?

[Bob95065]

I've used an Oregon round file holder and a Oregon depth gauge tool for 20 years. I wonder how I would like the Husqvarna round file guide.

I checked Lowes web site and didn't it. Amazon wants $8.53

 

[madhatte]

I got a .325 Husky roller guide from a dealer switching out to Echo a couple of years back for I think two bucks. Gotta keep your ears out.

 

[Bob95065]

$8.53 isn't that bad. I'll get my money's worth if I buy a 3/8 guide for those McCullochs

 

[SawTroll]

The good thing about the FOP is that the raker setting is progressive - the bad thing is that there isn't any setting for "soft" wood, that is the most useful setting with the Husky guides (at least here).

 

[Philbert]

The good thing about the FOP is that the raker setting is progressive - the bad thing is that there isn't any setting for "soft" wood, that is the most useful setting with the Husky guides (at least here).

Always a trade off. Some FOPs were set at 35°, but maybe you prefer 30°? I would like them better if they were more general - worked with any 3/8 pitch chain, or any .325 chain, etc.

Philbert

 

[SawTroll]

Always a trade off. Some FOPs were set at 35°, but maybe you prefer 30°? I would like them better if they were more general - worked with any 3/8 pitch chain, or any .325 chain, etc.

Philbert

I'm afraid that isn't possible, as long as there are different cutter and raker designs out there.

 

[SawTroll]

I'm afraid that isn't possible, as long as there are different cutter and raker designs out there.

Forgot to say; It is just luck when the FOP or the Husky raker guides work well on chain they aren't designed for - but with some knowledge it is of course possible to have an opinion of what they might work on.

 

[SawTroll]

If we move away from raker guides to cutter guides, the Husky roller ones can be used on a lot of different chain - but only if you know what you are doing, and adjust them to the chain in question - they are far from "universal" as they come.

The indicated top-plate angle just is a suggestion, you can use them for any angle really, if you know what you are doing, and why. I stopped using them many years ago, and just used file handles with angle indicators, freehand - with close focus on what I actually did to the edge of the chain.

Freehand works better than any guide for the cutters, once you know how to do it - but imo it doesn't for the rakers.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

....

....Freehand works better than any guide for the cutters, once you know how to do it - but imo it doesn't for the rakers.

And if we "move away" from raker guides to cutter guides, in between them we have the gullet.

I've also found free hand to be much more effective at gullet maintenance than other methods by far. Sort of a separate step in the process, but some would also say a necessity..., much like some would say progressive raker maintenance is. To each his own, but some methods just simply work better than others for different chain types, cutting conditions, and the skill level of the person doing the bar/chain maintenance and their cutting efficiency expectations when running a saw.

A shout out to Buckin' Billy Ray here. Quite the character and files a mean ass chain. He's also a fan of switching from a 7/32 to a 3/16 file when the cutters get down to about 50% of their original length. Makes sense when you think about it and I've seen it mentioned before. Has quite a few filing vids among a gazillion others. Also where I got turned on to the Husky raker gauge.

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[Philbert]

Gullets require less precision. Free hand all the way if filing.

If the chain is already on the grinder, I 'run' them pretty fast.

Philbert

 

[SawTroll]

.....

I've also found free hand to be much more effective at gullet maintenance than other methods by far. Sort of a separate step in the process, but some would also say a necessity..., much like some would say progressive raker maintenance is. To each his own, but some methods just simply work better than others for different chain types, cutting conditions, and the skill level of the person doing the bar/chain maintenance and their cutting efficiency expectations when running a saw.

.....

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As far as I know, there isn't any guide that will help you with gullet filing - that just is up to your own judgement and initiative.

I totally agree that it is a separate step in the process - but it is important. I tend to use a larger file for that than for the cutters, but that also has its limits...

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Some guides can be used for the task if mis-adjusted just for that purpose, but freehand filing is obviously much more efficient and effective. Also ensures a level or slightly downward angled edge where the bottom of the cutter meets the tie strap..., Buckin' Billy Ray "boat style". LOL. A larger file makes quicker work of the material for sure. Can also nick up an already decent cutter face if one isn't careful! I tend to use files already on their last legs for gullets to get the last bit of use out of em. Little more work, but not wasting swipes of an otherwise 'good' file.

And speaking of File-o-Plates, I received a couple from a fellow member and am anxious to give them a try. One old style for .365 and one new style for general 3/8's. Both were in original packaging w/instructions. Very cool. Interesting that they recommend filing the depth gauges before the cutters, but I can understand it if the cutters only need a touch up and you don't want to risk dulling a new cutter face laying the gauge on it. Otherwise, seems back assward to do the depth gauges before the length of the cutter is even determined.

 

[SawTroll]

.... One old style for .365 and one new style for general 3/8's. .....

Your post was/is a very good one, but that statement needs a comment. Actually ".365" just is a designation that some vendors is using for 3/8" lo-pro, to separate it from regular 3/8" (that they call .375).

The fact is that both kinds of chain have a pitch of about .366 when new, 3/8" just is an approximate designation, so "translating" it into .375 (and .365) just is silly and misleading. Still, a lot of brands and vendors do it, at least the .375 thing, which actually is most off from the truth..

This means it is natural to comment another common misunderstanding - the fact that the two kinds of 3/8" chain needs different size sprockets is because the rivets (where the pitch is measured) are closer to the "chassis" of the chain on lo-pro, so they need a larger sprocket, to keep the rivets at the same distance from the center of the crank.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Well, I knew what I meant by referring to the lo-pro 3/8 as .365. So there! LOL

The good thing about the FOP is that the raker setting is progressive - the bad thing is that there isn't any setting for "soft" wood, that is the most useful setting with the Husky guides (at least here).

Interestingly, (and another common misconception, evidently ) some later style FOP's actually do have A and B raker slots for soft and hard height settings..., at least my new model 37501 version does. The product clearly evolved from its initial inception until its unfortunate discontinuation.

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[SawTroll]

Well, I knew what I meant by referring to the lo-pro 3/8 as .365. So there! LOL



Interestingly, (and another common misconception, evidently ) some later style FOP's actually do have A and B raker slots for soft and hard height settings..., at least my new model 37501 version does. The product clearly evolved from its initial inception until its unfortunate discontinuation.

View attachment 47447

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I obviously didn't know that - the few I got (2) have only one raker setting.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

They made a few variants over the FOP's evolution for sure. Coincidentally, I visited one of the older Stihl dealers in my area today for some odds and ends and showed him the flat Husky raker gauge I recently bought. He just scoffed and said they stole the whole progressive concept from Ray Carlton. Also said he has a whole box of NOS FOP's somewhere. Never sold many. Thinks he may even still have all seven (or so) different models for the different chain types. Gonna hafta go back and bug him about em. Would have today, but he was already doing me a couple of favors with some used Stihl parts and I didn't want to push it. Also didn't tell him they were going for 11 ~ 14 bux a pop on eBay! I'll post here if I can talk him out of a few (or maybe all) of em if he doesn't want an arm and a leg for em.

So has anyone done a Carlton to everyone else's chain numbering cross-ref for the various FOP model number applications? Was going to dive into that myself unless it's already available somewhere. Seems like it sure would come in handy for deciphering all the combinations of FOP's to non-Carlton chain.