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67L36Driver

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Do a search on AS. I covered both styles of Remington check valves posted there.

Pictures may be gone. [emoji37]
 

fossil

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Thanks Carl. I saw that work around with the Lombard valve.

Interesting that you noted that on your PL-7 all four recoil cover screw holes were Helicoiled. Mine are as well
 

67L36Driver

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Need help IDing this saw. Im pretty sure it a Remington. It appears wer the tag was is now missing. Thanks for the help in advance. View attachment 189938View attachment 189939View attachment 189940View attachment 189941View attachment 189942

Wards SL-55, 82cc. [emoji106]

I had a beater Wards in nearly as bad cosmetic shape. It was my favorite saw to run. Lots of grunt and hardly any more weight than a Homie SXL.

Sold it to a fellow to power a Lewis winch. [emoji22]
cd558400d2e1e7a6745f8d89b5edf3c8.jpg
 

JohnnyBlade

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Wards SL-55, 82cc. [emoji106]

I had a beater Wards in nearly as bad cosmetic shape. It was my favorite saw to run. Lots of grunt and hardly any more weight than a Homie SXL.

Sold it to a fellow to power a Lewis winch. [emoji22]
cd558400d2e1e7a6745f8d89b5edf3c8.jpg
Thanks for the info. U dont have to have a sad face emoji. I know a guy with one if ur interested;)
 

JohnnyBlade

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@JohnnyBlade . I absolutely love mine, is very powerful and irritatingto my one neighbor. The Remington roller nose bar, is a dream to use. Not able to compare to much as it is only the second roller nose I have ever used.
Mike
View attachment 189959
Hey Mike, how the heck do u start that thing? Lol! Mine has so much compression its silly
 

msellers

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Hey Mike, how the heck do u start that thing? Lol! Mine has so much compression its silly
I slowly pull it over till it builds pressure well. Then I set the throttle lock, and take a firm grasp. Lock the handle into my leg, and give it a yank like it owes me money. But mine might now be as heavy on compression, haven't put a gauge on it. Probably should do that, now that I think of it. Here is the instructions according to the decal on my saw.
15627315674498491213640217092852.jpg
 

Jimsz

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I picked up this SL4 this past weekend; starts , runs and cuts good. I need to recut grooves in the starter cup, will likely do 1/2 the original number, there are a bunch. There is a lot of play between the shaft and clutch bushing, bushing to needle bearing is good. Any suggestions, there is a lot of wobble in the clutch bell at idle but I guess there is none at speed when the clutch locks up. Leave it alone?
 

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Jimsz

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I picked up this SL4 this past weekend; starts , runs and cuts good. I need to recut grooves in the starter cup, will likely do 1/2 the original number, there are a bunch. There is a lot of play between the shaft and clutch bushing, bushing to needle bearing is good. Any suggestions, there is a lot of wobble in the clutch bell at idle but I guess there is none at speed when the clutch locks up. Leave it alone?
This is the tool I made from an old circular saw blade. None of my Dremel burrs would cut the groove sides square like I wanted. The carbide tooth does a pretty good job.
 

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msellers

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This is the tool I made from an old circular saw blade. None of my Dremel burrs would cut the groove sides square like I wanted. The carbide tooth does a pretty good job.
Very nice, looks like it is working well from the picture. I do like the simple low tech options better myself.

Thanks for sharing this. Could come in handy for manycof us I do believe.
Mike

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67L36Driver

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Found a replacement for my beater Remy.
a97eeafd0797b4fbc0246520853b0935.jpg

075e5c5d042c47e6d7281d7e142f944a.jpg


Found it on KC C’list.

Runs cuts and oils the chain.

We been burning off the 16:1. [emoji1785]. Thankfully it was mixed with synthetic. [emoji106]
 
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