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Post up your ported cylinder Artwork

farminkarman

I like the red & black ones
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Tough to get a good finish on those. Soft aluminum, hard plating.
It looked really nice until I cut the base. The jug slipped on my mandrel :confused:. I am gonna polish it up a bit with some scotchbrite before putting it back on the saw.
 

Slumberjack

Team OPE benchwarmer
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It looked really nice until I cut the base. The jug slipped on my mandrel :confused:. I am gonna polish it up a bit with some scotchbrite before putting it back on the saw.
I’ve had that happen too. It likes to do that when I use a live center for a back stop then it pokes in a little and loosens up a bit. A flat backstop does better for me but doesn’t always work for every cylinder wit da fins and junk. I’m sure them sideways cylinders like that are always sketchy. I’ve only done a few of those. Nice work though for sure :rolleyes:
 

Nutball

Here For The Long Haul!
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Maybe tap a hole in the mandrel and use a screw to prevent slip while applying pressure in a direction that keeps it on the mandrel. That's what I do, but with nylon and a sheet metal screw. The problem with nylon is that it pushes out around the screw making it hard to get the cylinder off, but I just push the raised bit back in the screw hole.
 

huskihl

Muh fingers look really big
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If the top of the head is flat, I shove the point into it. Other than that, I’ve used a 1/4” nut, a 1/2” nut, and I have a plate about 2” square with a hole drilled through it that works on the others
 

srcarr52

Shop rat, backyard slice cutter.
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Mill a flat area on the odd shaped cylinders, then use a small aluminum plate with an 1/8" hole drilled thru it on the center. Tip of the live center fits into the hole so you can put solid pressure on it with the tailstock.

I do the same thing. I have a couple of small aluminum pucks that are drilled for the live center. On the slanted cylinders of a 550/562 and such I’ll grind a small spot in the top that is flat so I can run the live center directly into it.

I also put 80 grit sand paper on the end of my mandrels so they hold better. I can take .015-.020” roughing cuts this way.
 
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