Post up your ported cylinder Artwork

[huskihl]

I made my own.

View attachment 228381

Hateful...

 

[srcarr52]

Hateful...

You have a lathe, you can make your own.

 

[mettee]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nakanishi-...rentrq:ac64671e1700aa18f153d233ffe9c31a|iid:1

 

[Sawrain]

I made my own.

View attachment 228381

Dental drill head fabricated to your hand piece?

 

[Mattyo]

I think that's cool @srcarr52 ....but are they easy to change out? Those heads eat themselves quickly and chatter like crazy. And do you make your burrs? Those heads are "latch" type ...so you modify carbide burr shanks or do you have a source for latch carbides? My latch carbides are too small to be relevant in a non dental setting

I usually get a set of uppers done before a slow speed head eats itself. The china ones are about 13 bux a shot on ebay so... part of the cost of the hobby

 

[HYPERSAWS]

Finished up the 372 jug for a buddy's saw im rebuildingView attachment 228343 View attachment 228344 View attachment 228345 View attachment 228346

Slick looking work nice job

 

[srcarr52]

I think that's cool @srcarr52 ....but are they easy to change out? Those heads eat themselves quickly and chatter like crazy. And do you make your burrs? Those heads are "latch" type ...so you modify carbide burr shanks or do you have a source for latch carbides? My latch carbides are too small to be relevant in a non dental setting

I usually get a set of uppers done before a slow speed head eats itself. The china ones are about 13 bux a shot on ebay so... part of the cost of the hobby

The China copy of the NSK head just threads onto the adapter. It takes about 2 minutes to switch a head. I've ported 5 saws with the same head before but then again I took out 2 porting a Stihl 362. Just depends on what happens, stuff a burr and the gears inside the head are probably gone. Maybe someday I'll design a torque limiter inside the adapter. I've bought the heads on ebay or alli from $9-16 shipped depending on the style so I'm not too worried when I kill one.

Yes they are a latch burr, I like the push button style heads because they have bigger bearings than the swing latch style but you can use any of them with the adapter.

I buy 3/32 shaft burrs and modify them to fit in the latch head. I can do it by hand with the burr in a drill and a diamond cutoff wheel in a regular handpiece if necessary. Most of the time I do it with a toolpost grinder in the lathe. My favorite burr to run in them is a SE-53, 3/16" diameter, single cut, egg shaped. I found they don't last long to 1/4" diameter burrs.

 

[Mattyo]

Ya...I haven't found any burrs that size that are already configured for latch. So I make em same as you.

I usually use the actual latch heads but I didn't know the bearings were larger in the pushbuttons. Nice....tx

 

[MG porting]

Finished up the 372 jug for a buddy's saw im rebuildingView attachment 228343 View attachment 228344 View attachment 228345 View attachment 228346

You're getting to good. Lol

 

[srcarr52]

Ya...I haven't found any burrs that size that are already configured for latch. So I make em same as you.

I usually use the actual latch heads but I didn't know the bearings were larger in the pushbuttons. Nice....tx

Top is 51-SE 1/4” diameter.
Middle is 3/16” diameter I had custom made in 3/32 shaft.
Bottom is some 3/32 shaft flame shape I used to finish up the outside radius of the transfer ports on the 362.

 

[Mattyo]

Top is 51-SE 1/4” diameter.
Middle is 3/16” diameter I had custom made in 3/32 shaft.
Bottom is some 3/32 shaft flame shape I used to finish up the outside radius of the transfer ports on the 362.

This is a super important photo and it's not possible to communicate the amount of work that goes into r and d into having this setup. Adapting handpieces ...finding the right burrs. ..modding stuff. Lotta work man very nice.

 

[drf256]

Top is 51-SE 1/4” diameter.
Middle is 3/16” diameter I had custom made in 3/32 shaft.
Bottom is some 3/32 shaft flame shape I used to finish up the outside radius of the transfer ports on the 362.

Very impressive. You’ve always got another trick up you’re sleeve

I really want a 45* handpiece.

 

[srcarr52]

Very impressive. You’ve always got another trick up you’re sleeve

I really want a 45* handpiece.

The contra angle can really get into places the true 90 can't. It also is easier to control since the burr isn't 90 deg to the handle and trying to twist it in your hand as much.

 

[Redfin]

Have any interest in building me one?

 

[Mattyo]

Just fyi....you can get an electric lab motor for about 90 bux on ebay. Marathon iii
Doesn't need to be attached to foredom.

They are e type latch slow speed handpieces nsk knockoff

 

[srcarr52]

Just fyi....you can get an electric lab motor for about 90 bux on ebay. Marathon iii
Doesn't need to be attached to foredom.

They are e type latch slow speed handpieces nsk knockoff

But then you have to grip onto that first 1.5" or so of the head or it will turn on the motor stub.

 

[Mattyo]

Yup...works better if you have small hands. Big hands works better with your method. Sometimes I add some tape to make the head a little more comfy for my hands.

 

[srcarr52]

Yup...works better if you have small hands. Big hands works better with your method. Sometimes I add some tape to make the head a little more comfy for my hands.

That’s why I have heat shrink on them.

 

[huskihl]

That’s why I have heat shrink on them.

Gorilla tape seemed fitting...

 

[MG porting]

So sense I don't have one or ever used one I always did my port work the hard way I was wondering if someone had a good used 90 degree hand peace that would be maybe willing to trade for three straight hand Peace's I've got enough straight hand Peace's to last me a few years not sure who made them but compared to other I've had they run pretty smooth.