Rich coming off of WOT

[el33t]

I took a punch and folded the idle hole half shut and the same with the first transition hole. Beat a new plug in there and set the lever back to 65 thou. Seems much better/fixed. 1 turn on the idle now, throttle response is better, let off and it dips but doesnt stall. Ill put it in a wood pile and do some proper re tuning, hopefully that does it. Sometimes beating on things with a hammer really is the answer

I may be wrong, but it seems to me that it would be enough to just reduce the idle hole. But now it's too late...

 

[millerlite]

I may be wrong, but it seems to me that it would be enough to just reduce the idle hole. But now it's too late...

Thats exactly what I did. With a punch and a hammer, peened the edge in a bit from the inside, then put a new welch plug in. On the first two. This was a 20 dollar canadian carb, lifes too short for epoxy

 

[millerlite]

Works good. It does seem to like a little more fuel in the high and I can actually tune it now. Is there a way to post a video here without making a youtube account?

 

[el33t]

Thats exactly what I did. With a punch and a hammer, peened the edge in a bit from the inside, then put a new welch plug in. On the first two. This was a 20 dollar canadian carb, lifes too short for epoxy

What I meant was that it would probably be enough to reduce only one hole, the one between the throttle plate and the engine at idle speed. I wouldn't change the other two holes. I even think that the whole thing might work better that way, because normally, when idling, air passes through those two transition holes, mixes with the fuel, and the mixture is discharged through the port that you reduced.

Of course, I can't guarantee that what I've described would work better than what you've done, because there's no equation for that and it's up to experimentation to decide.

Works good. It does seem to like a little more fuel in the high and I can actually tune it now. Is there a way to post a video here without making a youtube account?

Sure!

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[millerlite]

I gotcha. The reason i did the second hole also, was because it was visibly larger than the other two, and it looked like it was drilled too far towards the cylinder. As in, acting like a second idle hole and in vacuum very close to being on the cylinder side of the throttle plate. I've never seen a carb like that before, even the genuine carb its a copy of. Dont worry, there is a method to my madness. Either way, it works perfect!

Yeah, way to try to sell me for now, youtube it is! hahaha

 

[millerlite]

Moved it for you. I'm a little biased (ok, a lot biased) towards China saws. So I'm gonna blame that for the issues.

Ok so to the chainsaw chainsaw haters out there *cough cough* I got it out today and made a quick video:

Its richer than optimal on the H but this is where i decided to leave it. This saw was 120 canadian, has a 18 dollar carb (get what you pay for there), and I haven't touched the cylinder yet.

So the backstory. I got drunk and ordered this thing on amazon and forgot, when it arrived 2 days later it was like a kid on christmas morning. Wtf is this?! It has now lived in the excavator for a year and a half. Cut probabaly 5 cord of 4 to 8 inch wood in real service. I felled a couple 18 inch dbh poplar with it one day, had to bore cut through the face. That was in stock form.

A 2511t is lighter, for sure. But they are 800 canadian. I forgot where i set this saw down, felled a 20 inch birch on it, bent the bar into a boomerang. Straightened it in the press close enough, and thats the bar in the video. - Its half sharp chinese 3/8 LP safety link with a 6 tooth spur, and very dry softwood.