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OEM 272 Cylinder compared with Hyway Titanikel 272

slackinoff

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This is a new thread from the "aftermarket cylinder quality" thread - https://opeforum.com/threads/aftermarket-cylinder-quality.26470/

(pics are uploading in a few min)

I figured it might be better to start a new discussion. Lots of pictures below text.

I don't have timing numbers yet but I think the pics will show some interesting differences. Right off the bat, the OEM cylinder is noticeably heavier (see scale). The cooling fins are thicker....which I thought I read it's the aftermarket stuff that had thicker cooling fins not the oem. Anyway, there is also an extra cooling fin on the oem near the exhaust port.

The aftermarket transfers are very different. The lowers on the titan cylinder don't have near as much of a venturi type of shape and are cut deeper by a good bit. Hopefully the pics show that. Curious what others think.

The piston on the OEM is way nicer and lighter (see scale). It's not from the pin, both pins weigh the exact same. Also the OEM piston is nicely beveled all over, the titan piston has many sharp edges. I actually cut the hell out of my finger when testing pin tightness on the titan.

You can see a defined and symmetrical line of plating in the ports of the oem cylinder. On the titanikel the line is not nearly as defined or symmetrical. Hard to tell in some spots how far it goes into the port....

Anyway, I am going to use the titanikel on my friends saw I am building, and the oem on my saw (he didn't want to pony up for oem)
 

Maintenance Chief

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I think the biggest difference is the piston.
I don't mind taking a grinding tool to a AM cylinder but I don't like messing with the piston and some of the aftermarket pistons are just terrible.
Neither of these look terrible but I'd perfer the husqvarna piston in this instance.
 

huskihl

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Obviously this could just be the camera angle, but this transfer looks like it’s going to flare and blow right out the exhaust, rather than shoot towards the intake side. Ideally, those 4 red marks will be parallel with each other

7322468B-22DB-4773-81CE-C0ED9B3889C8.jpeg
 
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Stump Shot

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Obviously this could just be the camera angle, but this transfer looks like it’s going to flare and blow right out the exhaust, rather than shoot towards the inside intake side Ideally, those 4 red marks will be parallel with each other

View attachment 333080

"Technician slay okay to ruse."
 

huskihl

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@Intoxsawcated - thank you for the stats

I’ll catch up tomorrow but thank y’all for the comments. I’m really trying to restrain myself and run these cylinders un-ground side by side to see how they do as delivered.

@huskihl @drf256 @Stump Shot @Maintenance Chief @Ronie
As long as the bevels are good, that’s where I would start. If it sucks compared to the Oem, I would try straightening out that flare that I pointed to so it shoots the charge in a straight line, rather than in a fan pattern
 

Stump Shot

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If it was my friend and he/she couldn't afford to buy a good cylinder, I would try and find a used one and buy a new Meteor piston and know that the job was done right and not going to blow up and cause more extensive damage like sending chrome through the bottom end to grind around a while.
Now the entire saw is shot and the splaining and repairing begins.
I'd put that right in the box of AM disappointments as a reminder.
I don't say these things just to be coarse, rather some real advice from my experiences with many saws and what I would do for a friend of mine.
 

Intoxsawcated

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drf256

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What I see is the typical AM.

The exhaust roof is flat, which can be fixed after the cylinder is machined and dropped.

The intake is sloppy, but also fixable.

The bevels suck.

Gotta wonder why the OEM typically doesn’t plate the chambers. Newer Husky do, like the 562, but generally they don’t.

The transfers are where the magic happens, and seeing behind the bridge is tough. The finesse of OEM cylinders is in the transfers. The AM ones have big sloppy uppers and bad tunnels with nearly no direction. If you look closely at the oem, you can see how the charge is funneled into the upper. The volume gets punched into a smaller space and then ejected from a tight upper, giving it speed and direction. Think garden hose with or without a nozzle, which one shoots further?

Then after all that porting work, you get a cylinder that could be out of round or have questionable plating like the one I used did.

No thanks.
 
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