Needing a log splitter guru

[jehinten]

The engine shouldn't stall. There should be a relief valve in the system to prevent that. Sounds like your setup may either be missing one or it's set incorrectly.

Is the relief built into the valve? Seems to me that might be where it would be located.

My valve is not the proper valve for a log splitter, I haven't had the chance to change it out yet, it also does not have a detent. Its possible that it would still have a relief in it and it's not functioning.

 

[Homemade]

Yes the are usually in the valve. Take a good pic of the valve, or get a part number we can look up on the internet. Sometimes they are adjustable via a set screw. Sometimes there fixed.

 

[jehinten]

Yes the are usually in the valve. Take a good pic of the valve, or get a part number we can look up on the internet. Sometimes they are adjustable via a set screw. Sometimes there fixed.

I'll try and get a better pic this evening

 

[jehinten]

Here is an image that I posted earlier in this thread, I did try and adjust the part that I have arrowed before I switched pumps, it slowed the cylinder down to a dead stop when maxed out. Possibly my relief adjustment, and when I maxed it out before it just bypassed all the oil back to the tank?

 

[fearofpavement]

One thing I notice from that pic is that your hoses are way to small for the kind of flow you want for a logsplitter.

 

[Pincher]

Most gear pumps are only good for about 3000 psi. The item the red arrow is pointing to should be adjusted to reduce pressure. If backed all the way out, the oil will all bypass to tank as stated. With gauge installed, dead head the cylinder(fully extend or retract) and turn adjusting screw in until it reaches 3000 psi or engine begins to stall.

 

[jehinten]

Most gear pumps are only good for about 3000 psi. The item the red arrow is pointing to should be adjusted to reduce pressure. If backed all the way out, the oil will all bypass to tank as stated. With gauge installed, dead head the cylinder(fully extend or retract) and turn adjusting screw in until it reaches 3000 psi or engine begins to stall.

Thank you, I will do that.

 

[jehinten]

One thing I notice from that pic is that your hoses are way to small for the kind of flow you want for a logsplitter.

What size hoses do you suggest? My current hoses are all 1/2"

 

[jehinten]

I have now built a slip over 4 way wedge. Upon testing it one of my welds broke, so it's back to the welder. I hope to have it repaired and tested tomorrow if the rain holds off.

I have also decided to go ahead and replace the control valve and subsequently that will mean new hoses as well. Partially because a couple of them are due for replacement and partially because I plan to relocate the control valve to a more comfortable working position.

 

[Pincher]

By the pictures the hoses looked smaller. Not that bigger wouldn't be better, the 1/2" hoses are fine on the pressure lines. The return line from the valve probably should be 3/4" or larger to prevent excessive back pressure. Having oil moving slower into the tank reduces the chance of aerating the oil. The hose size that is the most critical is the suction hose from the tank to the pump. Having too small of hose on pressure lines will just cause heat and noise.

 

[jehinten]

One thing I notice from that pic is that your hoses are way to small for the kind of flow you want for a logsplitter.

By the pictures the hoses looked smaller. Not that bigger wouldn't be better, the 1/2" hoses are fine on the pressure lines. The return line from the valve probably should be 3/4" or larger to prevent excessive back pressure. Having oil moving slower into the tank reduces the chance of aerating the oil. The hose size that is the most critical is the suction hose from the tank to the pump. Having too small of hose on pressure lines will just cause heat and noise.

I just took a look at my hoses, they are all 1/2" except the return. It is actually 3/8", due to the port size in the hydraulic tank I'm not sure that I can go bigger than 1/2" with it.
Pictured is the return line into the hydraulic tank

 

[jehinten]

After tinkering around a little this morning, I have now set the bypass valve for 2750psi it wasn't stalling the engine but I could hear it starting to work. I also decided to keep it below the maximum rated pressure to help with cycles to failure. My engine no longer stalls out which is very nice, I'll still try to reverse the control valve before hitting the end of the stroke but now if I don't grab it in time it wont stall the engine. Thank you for your guy's help with that.

 

[jehinten]

Another question. I know when designing a 4 way split wedge the back of the horizontal wedge should be angled up to prevent the wood from binding up against the steel, what is a sufficient amount of vertical lift from front to back? I built a slip over 4 way and have successfully ripped both wings off of it . I knew when I built it that I should have used thicker steel on the horizontals but I only had 3/8"X4" on hand so that's what I used. The 3/8" worked great for the vertical part since it is reinforced by the original wedge, the horizontals worked for a couple of pieces before they both broke off and I curled one of the edges almost into a 180°.

To repair it I am going to keep the vertical section and replace the horizontals with 1"X4" steel. How much lift should I give it? My first attempt was a 1" rise across the 4 inches and I wonder if that didn't make the front edge slightly more blunt and contribute to the damage. Horizontals were 18" long in order to split the larger rounds.

 

[jehinten]

Thought I would add that after running for over an hour at full RPM the hydraulic hoses and tank did not have any heat in them at all that I could tell by touching them, the hydraulic cylinder was just a little warm but not even close to unbearably hot. I know in the past with rental splitters (Iron and Oak) you could burn yourself by touching the cylinder after it had been running for some time.

A hydraulic tank upgrade may still be necessary in order to use a larger return line, but the fluid seems to be doing fine with this size of tank.

 

[Deets066]

Heat in hydraulics kills pump life. I believe my hoses are 3/4 pressure and 1-1/4 return

 

[Grimmy]

Another question. I know when designing a 4 way split wedge the back of the horizontal wedge should be angled up to prevent the wood from binding up against the steel, what is a sufficient amount of vertical lift from front to back? I built a slip over 4 way and have successfully ripped both wings off of it . I knew when I built it that I should have used thicker steel on the horizontals but I only had 3/8"X4" on hand so that's what I used. The 3/8" worked great for the vertical part since it is reinforced by the original wedge, the horizontals worked for a couple of pieces before they both broke off and I curled one of the edges almost into a 180°.

To repair it I am going to keep the vertical section and replace the horizontals with 1"X4" steel. How much lift should I give it? My first attempt was a 1" rise across the 4 inches and I wonder if that didn't make the front edge slightly more blunt and contribute to the damage. Horizontals were 18" long in order to split the larger rounds.View attachment 167576 View attachment 167577 View attachment 167578 View attachment 167579

Those wings are way too long!! I wouldn't go over 8" on either side. Also not need to angle them up. The bevel on the front of the wedge is enough. 3/4" think AR steel works great for wedges and 4 ways. Just make sure you weld it properly.

 

[jehinten]

Those wings are way too long!! I wouldn't go over 8" on either side. Also not need to angle them up. The bevel on the front of the wedge is enough. 3/4" think AR steel works great for wedges and 4 ways. Just make sure you weld it properly.

They were pretty long my concern with only 8" long wings is that if I put a 30-36" round into it I do not want the entire round to get stuck on the wedge. As for not angling the back up, I've always read that keeping it flat creates too much friction and causes the splitter to work harder. Do you disagree? This is my first 4 way wedge so I have no first hand knowledge.

 

[Deets066]

They were pretty long my concern with only 8" long wings is that if I put a 30-36" round into it I do not want the entire round to get stuck on the wedge. As for not angling the back up, I've always read that keeping it flat creates too much friction and causes the splitter to work harder. Do you disagree? This is my first 4 way wedge so I have no first hand knowledge.

If the 4 way just slips over the other wedge you should be fine, if it is fixed then pieces can get stuck in there. But nothing another round won’t fix

 

[jehinten]

If the 4 way just slips over the other wedge you should be fine, if it is fixed then pieces can get stuck in there. But nothing another round won’t fix

Yea it's a slip over. I did not consider that, instead of binding it would just lift the wedge a little

 

[fearofpavement]

Yes, as stated, the horizontal wings are way too long. They will continue to fail at that length as there's just too much force applied through leverage.