Muffler splitting methods ???

[Adirondackstihl]

I used a torch and these on my 6421. Lots of heat and then used a normal slip joint to re crimp. Broke a set of these between the heat and stainless steel of the mufflerView attachment 25549

This /\

 

[VinceGU05]

fark the muffler off and make a hot pipe for it.

 

[Savage Saws]

As long as its not furnace brazed you can do it quite easily. Take a grinder and grind off the crimped section of the join. You should now be able to split it apart extremely easily.

Once its gutted, extra outlets added etc, grind the inside of the 2 flanges back to clean/bare metal apply silver solder flux to one side and then aline the two halfs and clamp together, then silver solder it together.

I have to do a BG56 leaf blower muffler in the next few days, so i'll do a little tutorial here if youd like brewz?

 

[Adirondackstihl]

As long as its not furnace brazed you can do it quite easily. Take a grinder and grind off the crimped section of the join. You should now be able to split it apart extremely easily.

Once its gutted, extra outlets added etc, grind the inside of the 2 flanges back to clean/bare metal apply silver solder flux to one side and then aline the two halfs and clamp together, then silver solder it together.

I have to do a BG56 leaf blower muffler in the next few days, so i'll do a little tutorial here if youd like brewz?

BG56 huh?
I have one of them gutless wonders

 

[Savage Saws]

Mod the muffler, 8 degree timing advance. Completely different tool!!!

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Mod the muffler, 8 degree timing advance. Completely different tool!!!

I did remove the screen and bored out the muffler nipple.
Timing advance huh?
Maybe I'll try that

 

[Savage Saws]

Adirondackstihl, you'll need to split the muffler and gut it to really see a big gain.
It has a plate between the two halves with only 6 5mm holes right down the bottom to breath through. Remove that and you'll be happy you did.

 

[czar800]

Good thread!

Bump!

 

[bikemike]

A stainless steel muffler will require some serious heat to be un-crimped.
Luckily I did my PS-7900's regular steel muffler cold.

True stainless steel shouldn't rust under any circumstances, and it shouldn't be magnetic either.
A cheap wannabe stainless steel alloy might do both.
I am not an expert on alloys though!

Cheep stainless can also be welded with a Flux core steel wire at low heatthis header tube was straight. WAS

 

[Savage Saws]

I've been meaning to post this for a while now but I've been flat out in the workshop so, here goes nothing.

MS261 MUFFLER


All stainless and not furnace brazed (this sequence will work for mild steel mufflers just as well)

1) Take a grinder and carefully grind the pressed seam until, either the crimp separates from the muffler half or you can see a faint line form between the two half.


Continue grinding till the two halves can be separated easily.


Do what ever ungodly mods you deem necessary to attain.........(all together now in our best Arnold Schwarzenegger voice) !!!MORE POWER!!!
Then clean inside and out thoroughly, I prefer soda or sand blasting. Next grind both mating surfaces of the flanges back to clean bright metal.



Clean with acetone, then paint with brazing flux (in my case BOC silver brazing paste) then bolt both halves back together and proceed to braze them.
(the key to this step is make sure everything is CLEAN,CLEAN,CLEAN!!! Use plenty of flux and a flame just hot enough to allow the brazing rod to wet out but not boil and oxidize)

Should look like this when finished


I hope this helps you guys. This way beats the living *s-word out of uncrimping the flange and leaves you with a very neat product.
oh, if the muffler is furnace brazed together like on the BG56 blower or HT75 pole saw, good luck!!! you'll have to cut it apart and it just never goes back together the same. Savage Saws over and out.