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261 362 462 661 mtronic info

lehman live edge slab

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I don’t see the solenoid being an issue if it starts runs and idles. Usually they seem to die or other running issues. I’d just run some tanks of fresh gas through it and see and the 362 isn’t a powerhouse stock. Dealer might not be 100% wrong about the expectation part.
 

Dave12

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Okay. That's what I'm trying to rule out. I don't want to start throwing parts and money at if it that isn't the problem. It is hard after cutting with the 462c and going to the 362c. I know it's a less powerful saw I just expected a little more out of it.
 

RI Chevy

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Welcome to the Forum. Did you check air filter too? Can you post a photo of the serial number and DOM sticker found on the handle. Would tell us if saw is V1 Or V2. You can also call or Email Stihl with serial number. They can tell you where it was purchased and what version.
Maybe make a video or the issues your having with the saw. Guys will chime in and let you know if it's normal or not.
 

lehman live edge slab

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If the saw has the new style clutch cover it’s a version 2 saw. And from way it sounds there’s nothing wrong with it so no reset needed. If it starts idles and revs out the saw is more than likely fine just not what he expected.
 

RI Chevy

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It's so hard to figure out for me without more info. Like a video of the issues, etc.
But your probably right.
 

Ketchup

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Lehman live edge slab is probably right. We run two stock 362s and they both jam and stall easily. They really can’t handle dogged in cuts at full bar length. They run fine, but if they lose RPM, they just give up.

I recommend the timing advance. It’s pretty easy and really wakes up these xx1 and xx2 stihl saws. More than the muffler mod. Also, I believe there is a baffle inside the muffler that limits flow to the muffler outlet. That baffle has to be opened up as well, or bypassed.
 

lehman live edge slab

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Lehman live edge slab is probably right. We run two stock 362s and they both jam and stall easily. They really can’t handle dogged in cuts at full bar length. They run fine, but if they lose RPM, they just give up.

I recommend the timing advance. It’s pretty easy and really wakes up these xx1 and xx2 stihl saws. More than the muffler mod. Also, I believe there is a baffle inside the muffler that limits flow to the muffler outlet. That baffle has to be opened up as well, or bypassed.
Depending on the muffler some are one piece and the others are a 2 piece. I add another outlet and deflector to the other side of can. Lately I’ve been ordering spare ms193t deflectors to use when I add more outlets on mufflers
 

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Thanks guys. It's sounding more and more like this saw just doesn't have the balls that I expected. Especially after running a 462c. I'll see if I can take a quick video anyway.

To answer some of the questions. The air filter is clean. It has a 2 piece muffler with no baffle inside. Spark screen is clean. I opened up with hole with a 3/8" drill bit. I did check last night and it has the black solenoid.

Ketchup I'm interested to know how to do the timing advance.

Thanks

Dave
 

lehman live edge slab

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Thanks guys. It's sounding more and more like this saw just doesn't have the balls that I expected. Especially after running a 462c. I'll see if I can take a quick video anyway.

To answer some of the questions. The air filter is clean. It has a 2 piece muffler with no baffle inside. Spark screen is clean. I opened up with hole with a 3/8" drill bit. I did check last night and it has the black solenoid.

Ketchup I'm interested to know how to do the timing advance.

Thanks

Dave
You can go more open than just a 3/8” drill I usually add a second deflector and hole somewhere on the side. Pull the flywheel off saw and file between 15 and 20 thousands off the flywheel key that’s build into the flywheel on the 362. You want to make sure you file it so the flywheel is further counter clockwise than was originally. The outer edge of the flywheel will be 3/16-1/4 inch further counter clockwise than it was stock. Hold it that and tighten the flywheel back down. I do this to all the 362’s at my buddies tree service, last year there was one stock on still floating around and the owner ended up with it on a day he took a tree down. The saw was at my house that afternoon to get muffler mod and timing advance. They won’t run them stock anymore and he really likes his saw that has a mastermind cylinder on it.
 

BonScott46

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Doesn’t v.3 m-tronic run a white solenoid?
 

Dave12

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You can go more open than just a 3/8” drill I usually add a second deflector and hole somewhere on the side. Pull the flywheel off saw and file between 15 and 20 thousands off the flywheel key that’s build into the flywheel on the 362. You want to make sure you file it so the flywheel is further counter clockwise than was originally. The outer edge of the flywheel will be 3/16-1/4 inch further counter clockwise than it was stock. Hold it that and tighten the flywheel back down. I do this to all the 362’s at my buddies tree service, last year there was one stock on still floating around and the owner ended up with it on a day he took a tree down. The saw was at my house that afternoon to get muffler mod and timing advance. They won’t run them stock anymore and he really likes his saw that has a mastermind cylinder on it.

Okay thanks for the info. I just want to confirm this is all good to do on a M-Tronic saw? Does it need to be recalibrated after?
 

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You have to know, the white solenoid valves are not recomended and licensed by Stihl to use in general for older m-tronic models. It is model specific what has to be used. I don`t know the exact reason for this. I think there was talk in the past that it has something to do with the firmware on the control units. On some models it can work, as Sawmikaze says, but this info is not official from Stihl. Insted of the white one, if you want to replace a old black one, go to your dealer, talk with him and get the recomended one.
 

av8or3

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I definitely recommend to someone with a stihl chainsaw is to install the new and improved orange fuel filter regardless of what solenoid is on it. It’s easy and cheap insurance. The new filter has a finer micron rating as mentioned already. The old black filters let more shít past which is what eventually wipes out the solenoids or clogs carb screens/passages. It’s a good practice to replace the filter every so often anyway on any saw mtronic or not. View attachment 222748
That’s the filter for the rear handle saws.
 
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