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Having trouble with stihl 261c rebuild.

drf256

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261 isn’t a 462.

If Doc says “xyz” about a 261, then it’s “xyz”
Thanks Kev, but I wouldn’t say that.

I try to never give bad advice. My abbreviations were off, and it can be quite confusing. The 261 had 2 derivations as has the 462. I’m off on the nomenclature. I know that the (at least for me) straight finned 261 had the old style reset and the slant ones had the new style, at least all I have seen.

That being said, I’ve yet to see a saw that won’t run at all get better from a reset. I guess it’s a moot point anyway, if a saw can’t even idle it can’t go through either of the reset procedures.

The MT continually adjusts a saw. The reset simply puts it back to factory default settings. I’ve personally never witnessed it fix any issues that a few cuts wouldn’t fix.
 

bogieboy

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Thanks Kev, but I wouldn’t say that.

I try to never give bad advice. My abbreviations were off, and it can be quite confusing. The 261 had 2 derivations as has the 462. I’m off on the nomenclature. I know that the (at least for me) straight finned 261 had the old style reset and the slant ones had the new style, at least all I have seen.

That being said, I’ve yet to see a saw that won’t run at all get better from a reset. I guess it’s a moot point anyway, if a saw can’t even idle it can’t go through either of the reset procedures.

The MT continually adjusts a saw. The reset simply puts it back to factory default settings. I’ve personally never witnessed it fix any issues that a few cuts wouldn’t fix.
The 3.0 reset doesnt put it back to factory settings... it tunes it to what the saw needs.... least thats what stihl says in all thier training... and, my personal experience with mt3.0 is my 661, top end grenaded due to dull chain, add in pinched bar and torn intake boot, would not idle after fresh top end at all...just a pop about every 3rd pull... did exactly what i told the OP to do, dribble gas in the intake, get it running, then performed a reset, and have been running well ever since...
 

stihlproincky

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OK, I did a compression test came in average 150psi, that's good. Did a vac/pressure test, held 10 both ways.
Now the issue is the flywheel key was sheared some point during the failure process of the old piston, I assume. Due to that the flywheel will not stay in place, causing the saw to die after starting. Have tried putting it on as tight as I could, even tried a thin washer to get more pressure, no luck. Cut a key for it which it soon stripped, now I'm waiting on a new flywheel to arrive. Thank you guys very much for the assistance, I'll do a mtronic reset when I get it running.
 

bogieboy

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Clean the flywheel and crank tapers REALLLLLY GOOOD with carb cleaner... you want 0 oil or anything else on that taper, as that is what holds the flywheel on place, the key is only there to index your timing, not to keep it from slipping on the shaft.
 

stihlproincky

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Got it going. Thanks guys for the help!
New piston, flywheel, solenoid. Did the mtronic 3.0 reset, that's magical to a guy used to standard carbs 😆
Thanks again guy's!
 
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