Brewz
Free Range Human in a Tax Farm
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- 5:54 AM
- User ID
- 550
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2016
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- 4,217
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- Location
- Hunter Valley - Australia

Having recently rebuilt my Stihl 039 from the ground up and dual porting the muffler, It was suggested to me that fitting an MS460 carb to the saw would help deliver more fuel in the cut to match the increased airflow, increasing torque and reducing bog.
By feel, it did just that!
The carb is just a $20 Chinese ebay special. It is physically identical to the stock carb and just bolts on. Only physical change I needed to make externally was to swap the air filter compensation top for the stock Walbro plate top as my air compensation hole is full of silicon.

The venturi is 17.45mm rather than 16.67mm in the stock carb. Also, the air bleed holes are larger and allow more fuel through the low speed circuit. This keeps plenty of fuel supplied to the saw when you load it up and speed drops.
Now it wasn't all strait forward and some simple mods are needed to make it work.
First up I drilled out the tiny little 0.25mm hole in the brass jet (bottom left) which is an EPA restriction to reduce emissions (lower power) on the L circuit. A 1 mm drill bit just gently twisted through by hand did the job
Before:

After:

The result I wanted was a richer L circuit with the remainder made up by the H circuit at WOT, the idea being a richer loaded speed to keep torque up in the cut and reduce bog. To get this, the carb supplied a LOT of fuel at idle. In fact it ran blue smoke every time I hit the throttle off idle. It also supplied so much fuel on the L circuit at WOT that I couldn't get the revs over about 11000 RPM with the H screw all the way in, and it guzzled fuel.
It had not worked but I felt it could.
I took it home and after some discussion with a member of another forum, I completely blocked one of the jets supplying the H circuit (top left) by screwing it out and cutting a small round piece of old carb gasket and screwing the jet back down on it to plug the hole. I also filled the hole with some Motoseal 2 to make the change easily reversible but solder would be better now that I know what I know.
I also used a round file to make a small air bleed on the butterfly on the oposite side of the standard one. Its only just visible but lets a little bit of air through, reducing the amount of air traveling through the factor idle air bleed. This works to reduce the amount of fuel sucked at idle by air moving over the fuel jet, alowing me to tune the L circuit richer to supply more fuel at high revs, but lean the saw out at idle giving better throttle response. If you do this, remember that you can always take some more material out, but you cant put it back in as easy if you go to far.
My small air bleed is on the oposite side to the factory one seen below. I only really relieved the thickness of the butterfly edge, kind of beveling it to bleed a tiny bit more air. No large grooves.

Bolted the carb back on and after a bit of back and forth with the screws, got it to fire up.
It now ran great. I have full control over idle speed using the L screw with 2 turns of adjustment and can lean it out to the clean scream and bring it back to 4 stroke at about 12700 RPM.
I took it out to run it in some timber and bolted on my 30" bar with 3/8 full comp full chisel chain to really test it.
In 2 foot thick timber it ran the 30" bar fine and held far better revs in a light pressure cut. Previously I had to almost hold it up in the cut to keep it cutting at a happy rate. I could still bog it with a lot of pressure.
I removed the 30" bar and bolted on the more practical (for this saw) 20" bar running 3/8 full comp semi chisel chain.
With this bar on, it is an animal. I can dig in the spikes and really pull on it hard before it bogs.
It hasn't turned it into an 066 but it feels a lot stronger than it was.
I will be getting some timber tomorrow and plan to keep some of it as big as I can to use as cookie testers.
I still have the stock carb set tuned and plan to do a couple timed cuts with both to really test it out.
It feels stronger but does it cut faster...... that is to be seen
By feel, it did just that!
The carb is just a $20 Chinese ebay special. It is physically identical to the stock carb and just bolts on. Only physical change I needed to make externally was to swap the air filter compensation top for the stock Walbro plate top as my air compensation hole is full of silicon.

The venturi is 17.45mm rather than 16.67mm in the stock carb. Also, the air bleed holes are larger and allow more fuel through the low speed circuit. This keeps plenty of fuel supplied to the saw when you load it up and speed drops.
Now it wasn't all strait forward and some simple mods are needed to make it work.
First up I drilled out the tiny little 0.25mm hole in the brass jet (bottom left) which is an EPA restriction to reduce emissions (lower power) on the L circuit. A 1 mm drill bit just gently twisted through by hand did the job
Before:

After:

The result I wanted was a richer L circuit with the remainder made up by the H circuit at WOT, the idea being a richer loaded speed to keep torque up in the cut and reduce bog. To get this, the carb supplied a LOT of fuel at idle. In fact it ran blue smoke every time I hit the throttle off idle. It also supplied so much fuel on the L circuit at WOT that I couldn't get the revs over about 11000 RPM with the H screw all the way in, and it guzzled fuel.
It had not worked but I felt it could.
I took it home and after some discussion with a member of another forum, I completely blocked one of the jets supplying the H circuit (top left) by screwing it out and cutting a small round piece of old carb gasket and screwing the jet back down on it to plug the hole. I also filled the hole with some Motoseal 2 to make the change easily reversible but solder would be better now that I know what I know.
I also used a round file to make a small air bleed on the butterfly on the oposite side of the standard one. Its only just visible but lets a little bit of air through, reducing the amount of air traveling through the factor idle air bleed. This works to reduce the amount of fuel sucked at idle by air moving over the fuel jet, alowing me to tune the L circuit richer to supply more fuel at high revs, but lean the saw out at idle giving better throttle response. If you do this, remember that you can always take some more material out, but you cant put it back in as easy if you go to far.
My small air bleed is on the oposite side to the factory one seen below. I only really relieved the thickness of the butterfly edge, kind of beveling it to bleed a tiny bit more air. No large grooves.

Bolted the carb back on and after a bit of back and forth with the screws, got it to fire up.
It now ran great. I have full control over idle speed using the L screw with 2 turns of adjustment and can lean it out to the clean scream and bring it back to 4 stroke at about 12700 RPM.
I took it out to run it in some timber and bolted on my 30" bar with 3/8 full comp full chisel chain to really test it.
In 2 foot thick timber it ran the 30" bar fine and held far better revs in a light pressure cut. Previously I had to almost hold it up in the cut to keep it cutting at a happy rate. I could still bog it with a lot of pressure.
I removed the 30" bar and bolted on the more practical (for this saw) 20" bar running 3/8 full comp semi chisel chain.
With this bar on, it is an animal. I can dig in the spikes and really pull on it hard before it bogs.
It hasn't turned it into an 066 but it feels a lot stronger than it was.
I will be getting some timber tomorrow and plan to keep some of it as big as I can to use as cookie testers.
I still have the stock carb set tuned and plan to do a couple timed cuts with both to really test it out.
It feels stronger but does it cut faster...... that is to be seen
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