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Modifying Oil Pumps

huskyboy

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Metal drive vs plastic? I thought they all were plastic drive gears? Is there such a thing as a drive gear that is a multi start thread? That would spin the pump faster for more oiling.
The tab that the clutch drum engages on the later improved pumps is metal. The earlier ones had two plastic tabs that the clutch drum engaged.
 

gyp69

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I’m curious why you need 2 tanks of oil to one tank of mix? I’m not being a smart ass just curious? Thanks.
 

Lightning Performance

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Maybe a auxiliary drip setup would be of benefit? I don’t know much at all about milling...
Mill.
Right now my Stihl 1122 HO can feed a 28-32" 3/8 0.050 or 063 404 in dry oak. My modded pump eats worm gears :couch: but floods the bar
Feeding the 42" in 404 is a lot of oil. Drip is a must in any thing over 35" wide most times.... 60" bar. Treeninefo is trying to fill the gap here. Running thin oil helps my program. A tank extension is easy on the mill saws. Less BS. Less is more kiss. Drip oil is a pia during heat waves and super cold days. You need to run an insulated bottle or you run out of oil on the bar in cold weather. After the second cut the saw will get better with thin oil but the damage has been done, bar wear. I'm anal about bar rails staying minty. Air filters, bar rails and melted pistons are my main concern. The piston part is good to go now.
 

Lightning Performance

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Lightning, would you mind detailing how you modded your oiler and what the stroke length gain is?
TIA
No tale to tell. I went too far on the ramps and it eats AM and OE worm gears.
Going to loop off the end and try converting it to a screw style control bolt like other brands. Chrome on the drive end will be a pia. No chrome no dice. It will wear too fast for my use. Considered a hard anodized tip to ride on the screw. I can be steel oxide derivatives or a bonded add-on aluminium gear tip.
 

Lightning Performance

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Sounds good. Husky style rocks imo
Stihl style wears less but its complicated and that scares most people from modding them. Big news flash... there not complicated just different and very long lasting imo. Never looked inside the 070 090 oil pump, yet.

Most other types including vacuum pumps, the best imho, and weirder ones over years offer little for mills. If these don't pan out I'm moving to a mechanical drive and be done with it. Then sell them to make some loot.
 

Terry Syd

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Considered a hard anodized tip to ride on the screw.

I don't know exactly what you are doing, but if you are trying to create a hard surface you may want to try this trick. Get some used motor oil (cheaper than new oil), heat up the part or the end of the part with a torch to where it is cherry red. Then drop it in the oil. It will definitely get HARD.

Make sure you have the surface the way you want it before you drop it in the oil, you won't be able to file it afterwards.

I used to hand shape my own motorcycle cams, then use this trick to harden the surface again, worked a charm.
 

Lightning Performance

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@Walter Glover

The ramps are on both sides and the metal is harder than most imo. It is a very gentle lift off from the base circle. Other brands are more abrupt. Hope that makes sense.

After thousands of tanks run in my 361's running short bars with 2/3 settings on the pumps they show very little wear over a long time. Same thing with the 660 pumps run wide open most times. Just my personal observations.


Replaced very few worn out Stihl oil pumps or pump parts. I work on saws and 80% are Stihl but the rest got most of the pump replacements. Most common causes of failure are broken clutch springs or unfiltered drain oil use that I see in Stihl saws. Other saws are worn out. Yes, I take apart every pump that comes out. Most that jam lost the pickup filter and got jammed with wood dust or chip. The odds should favor the rest not what comes to me beat to death by a so called pro most times... buying or repairing. Poolawn non mag body type newer saws are the worst design imo. My PP455 is flawless. Took it completely apart once just to look in there. That only runs a bow for bucking. Bet it needs rings by now. Thousands of tanks run through it. Had it ten years for making chunks.
200T can wear out pumps from lazy people not filling the oil tank every time. RPM related is my guess... no oil... all that friction... vilooa dogsitz ;)
 

Lightning Performance

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I don't know exactly what you are doing, but if you are trying to create a hard surface you may want to try this trick. Get some used motor oil (cheaper than new oil), heat up the part or the end of the part with a torch to where it is cherry red. Then drop it in the oil. It will definitely get HARD.

Make sure you have the surface the way you want it before you drop it in the oil, you won't be able to file it afterwards.

I used to hand shape my own motorcycle cams, then use this trick to harden the surface again, worked a charm.
You been watching too many Fast Indian movies :cool:
 

CR888

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I’m curious why you need 2 tanks of oil to one tank of mix? I’m not being a smart ass just curious? Thanks.
Ever since man was first told oil was good for his engine or metal moving components we made sure we used it. Some clever guy said if you have no oil or it runs out your in trouble and will ruin your stuff. So its inherreant that we have a mindset that moah oil is better, too much oil is not considered a problem but not enough is disaster. So when it comes to saws we don't take the manufacturers word that they supplied an adequate oiler for the job, we know better and fu$# with the oiler until oil is spewing everywhere.
 

qurotro

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Ever since man was first told oil was good for his engine or metal moving components we made sure we used it. Some clever guy said if you have no oil or it runs out your in trouble and will ruin your stuff. So its inherreant that we have a mindset that moah oil is better, too much oil is not considered a problem but not enough is disaster. So when it comes to saws we don't take the manufacturers word that they supplied an adequate oiler for the job, we know better and fu$# with the oiler until oil is spewing everywhere.
Generally speaking more oil do less damage than not enough oil. I'd rather run my car overfilled with oil than no oil.
The wood chips are gonna absorb spilled oil when cutting anyway. Bar is expensive oil is cheap.
 

Lightning Performance

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Ever since man was first told oil was good for his engine or metal moving components we made sure we used it. Some clever guy said if you have no oil or it runs out your in trouble and will ruin your stuff. So its inherreant that we have a mindset that moah oil is better, too much oil is not considered a problem but not enough is disaster. So when it comes to saws we don't take the manufacturers word that they supplied an adequate oiler for the job, we know better and fu$# with the oiler until oil is spewing everywhere.
Zackly
 

Lightning Performance

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Generally speaking more oil do less damage than not enough oil. I'd rather run my car overfilled with oil than no oil.
The wood chips are gonna absorb spilled oil when cutting anyway. Bar is expensive oil is cheap.
Oil keeps the bar going. It's not a cheap or expensive kinda deal. No need to spend my time dressing rails or adjusting chain. Again, this is a time thing for me, get in, get done trouble free and get out. Less maintenance makes me a happy guy. Less down time more mill and family time. It's just that simple.

You really think I want to spend my time working on oil pumps?... if so I'll go back to blueprinting Melling oil pumps for muscle car V8's
 
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