Mini-mac rehab

[redline4]

Wait. I just bought mine yesterday! Are you ifluffsheep on ebay?

No.
Ipunchdonkeys.

 

[Steve]

You will need to cut a bigger slot for the updated fuel line plug. Here is what you have now.



You will need to enlarge it to this



The plug will sit in the housing like this. The fuel line and plug are installed onto the carb before the engine assemblely is reinstalled into the housing.

 

[redline4]

So your saying I cant just push really hard or hit it with a hammer to make it fit?

Too bad.

Thanks Steve!

 

[redline4]

While the Post Office is mishandling the parts Steve sent me, I decided to do some more work.

I put the handles back on. Wont go into detail, as I think my dog could figure that out.


Took the 4 screws out of the pan.
Gave it a whack with a rubber hammer and it came right off.




A little bit of funk in there, but not too bad.

 

[redline4]

Rings have no pins.
Gaps were lined up.


Bearings all feel good, so a cleaning of parts and begin reassembly.

 

[Steve]

If you need a piston i think i have one. And the special tools to do it too!

 

[redline4]

If you need a piston i think i have one. And the special tools to do it too!

No sir, I am just going to clean this one up and let it eat.
Or nibble.
Or perhaps just a light snack. Like crackers.

 

[heimannm]

In theory the rings can move around while the engine is running so you may have just caught it in a bad spot.

Mark

 

[redline4]

I got a package in the mail yesterday. I was secretly hoping it would be something cool, but it was mini mac parts.
Thanks @Steve !



I also had a bit of time to reseal the pan and get the crank seals in.



I opened up the case some for the new fuel line fitting.
Not sure if it's enough or not?
Should the block end of the fitting go into the case, or sit on the case?




I had to remove some from the inside, as there was a bump out that would have caused it to sit crooked.

Old line and new line/tank fitting.

 

[redline4]

Steve also hooked me up with a new vintage AC spark plug.
It seems I hurt some peoples feelings on Antiques Roadshow due to my crude and vulgar handling of the other one.



And after 24 hours, it hold suction like a Dyson.



I found a random screw to take the place of the one I broke that retains the condenser.



@Steve also tells me these have these plastic tubes that belong in the intake and carb mounting holes.
Mine did not have them and he sent me some.
It's possible that they are nothing but cut off KFC drinking straws and he his currently laughing his azz off, but they do fit..



In my overzealousness to feel the wood scratching power of this pile, I never bothered to check the points gap on disassembly. Which, would have been nice to know as non of the literature I have on this tells me that.

@Steve or @Stump Shot do you know what the points should be gapped at?

I found .018", but I dont trust the source.

 

[redline4]

In the meantime, I went through the carb, but didnt take any pics.

Washer, bearing, drum and clutch on




Now, I wont know if this presents a problem or not until I put the flywheel on, but if install the KFC straws, there is zero movement allowed to adjust the coil gap.

 

[heimannm]

There is enough adjustment of the coil to set the gap to 0.010". Points should be gapped to 0.018-0.020" at their widest point.

Put the fuel line on the carburetor and be careful when sliding the engine into the housing. The tab fitting must lock into the slot in the housing and as you push the fuel and oil tank in position they engage the fuel line fitting and the rubber nipple for the oil line. Actually a pretty reliable system once you get the hang of it.

Mark

 

[Stump Shot]

Steve also hooked me up with a new vintage AC spark plug.
It seems I hurt some peoples feelings on Antiques Roadshow due to my crude and vulgar handling of the other one.

View attachment 176006

And after 24 hours, it hold suction like a Dyson.

View attachment 176007

I found a random screw to take the place of the one I broke that retains the condenser.

View attachment 176008

@Steve also tells me these have these plastic tubes that belong in the intake and carb mounting holes.
Mine did not have them and he sent me some.
It's possible that they are nothing but cut off KFC drinking straws and he his currently laughing his azz off, but they do fit..

View attachment 176009

In my overzealousness to feel the wood scratching power of this pile, I never bothered to check the points gap on disassembly. Which, would have been nice to know as non of the literature I have on this tells me that.

@Steve or @Stump Shot do you know what the points should be gapped at?

I found .018", but I dont trust the source.

.018" sounds good off the top of my head.

 

[Steve]

As Mark and Mr. Shot said, .018" on the gap is correct. It seems i forgot to send you my mcculloch factory mini mac timing tool. You would use an analog ohm meter to check continuity over the points. They should break contact at 26° BTDC which is where the tool would line up the coil. You can adjust the ignition timing by the point gap. Wider gap, more advance. Smaller gap, less advance.

@heimannm

Mark, Did i do that timing tool correct? I dont think it went in between the legs like that. I though it hit the leading leg?

 

[Steve]

Yes, the new fuel line bushing should sit inside the slot. Not on top. The slot keeps it in place so it doesnt fall out of the tank.

 

[Steve]

Steve also hooked me up with a new vintage AC spark plug.
It seems I hurt some peoples feelings on Antiques Roadshow due to my crude and vulgar handling of the other one.

View attachment 176006

And after 24 hours, it hold suction like a Dyson.

View attachment 176007

I found a random screw to take the place of the one I broke that retains the condenser.

View attachment 176008

@Steve also tells me these have these plastic tubes that belong in the intake and carb mounting holes.
Mine did not have them and he sent me some.
It's possible that they are nothing but cut off KFC drinking straws and he his currently laughing his azz off, but they do fit..

View attachment 176009

In my overzealousness to feel the wood scratching power of this pile, I never bothered to check the points gap on disassembly. Which, would have been nice to know as non of the literature I have on this tells me that.

@Steve or @Stump Shot do you know what the points should be gapped at?

I found .018", but I dont trust the source.

Yep, got those straws out of my wifes glovebox!

 

[Steve]

I got a package in the mail yesterday. I was secretly hoping it would be something cool, but it was mini mac parts.
Thanks @Steve !

View attachment 176001

I also had a bit of time to reseal the pan and get the crank seals in.

View attachment 176002

I opened up the case some for the new fuel line fitting.
Not sure if it's enough or not?
Should the block end of the fitting go into the case, or sit on the case?

View attachment 176003
View attachment 176004

I had to remove some from the inside, as there was a bump out that would have caused it to sit crooked.

Old line and new line/tank fitting.

View attachment 176005

You're Welcome.

 

[heimannm]

That is the way they show it in the PM6 workshop manual.



Mark

 

[redline4]

Thanks guys!
Looks like I need to do a bit more grinding for the fuel line.
I will set the points to .018-.020 and see what happens.

With time and luck I will be scratching on some wood with it this weekend.

 

[FergusonTO35]

You're doing great! I caught the Mini Mac fever in the 2000's and at one point had like 5 of them running/semi-running. Glad I recovered!