Milling pine

[merc_man]

Got offered some pine logs. Was wondering what they are like for milling. Be soft and easy going hut was wondering about sap. Are they pretty messy?
I have a chainsaw mill.

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[SpaceBus]

I only mill spruce, fir, and tamarack, so my opinion is not the most significant but I do find the sawdust sticks to everything. Especially since I'm using canola oil for chain lube.

 

[davidwyby]

I

I only mill spruce, fir, and tamarack, so my opinion is not the most significant but I do find the sawdust sticks to everything. Especially since I'm using canola oil for chain lube.

I would much like to see tamarack.


@merc_man the pine I have here is dead, dry, and pitchy. I will probably try it myself. alcohol takes pitch off.

 

[Guido Salvage]

I was milling some today, but I have a band mill. These trees have been down since last year so they are fairly dry and sap is not a major issue. I run a mix of Dawn dishwashing soap and Pine Sol with water to cut the sap.

 

[Sagebrush33]

I only mill spruce, fir, and tamarack, so my opinion is not the most significant but I do find the sawdust sticks to everything. Especially since I'm using canola oil for chain lube.

Don't forget Hemlock.

 

[SpaceBus]

I

I would much like to see tamarack.


@merc_man the pine I have here is dead, dry, and pitchy. I will probably try it myself. alcohol takes pitch off.

I'll have to find a few pieces of it. After a bit in the sun it fades to a tan-ish color, maybe a bit darker than white oak. Right when it is cut the growth rings have a greenish brown color and it is one of my favorites. Unfortunately most Tamarack logs on yield a few 2x4's or a 4x4 since most of them grow crooked or stay small.

 

[SpaceBus]

Don't forget Hemlock.

Oddly we don't have ANY hemlock on our property! It's probably 40% fir, 40% spruce, and 10% Tamarack, and 10% mixed birch, red maple, and some very small cherry trees.

 

[SpaceBus]

I was milling some today, but I have a band mill. These trees have been down since last year so they are fairly dry and sap is not a major issue. I run a mix of Dawn dishwashing soap and Pine Sol with water to cut the sap.

I've been thinking about using a small amount of dish detergent in my water cooling bottle. I don't know about actual pine sap, but balsam fir and spruce sap are easy to clean with a bit of oil. I often times get it on my hands since that's what we use for firewood and it comes right off with lotion, canola oil, butter, etc. Many folk make wreaths here in the fall and they all use oil to get the resin and pitch off their hands (if they don't wear gloves). Honestly I think about putting canola oil in my water cooling drip, it might be more effective at shedding heat and keeping the bar lubed.

 

[Sagebrush33]

I've been thinking about using a small amount of dish detergent in my water cooling bottle. I don't know about actual pine sap, but balsam fir and spruce sap are easy to clean with a bit of oil. I often times get it on my hands since that's what we use for firewood and it comes right off with lotion, canola oil, butter, etc. Many folk make wreaths here in the fall and they all use oil to get the resin and pitch off their hands (if they don't wear gloves). Honestly I think about putting canola oil in my water cooling drip, it might be more effective at shedding heat and keeping the bar lubed.

Mineral oil works wonders too. I'd have to say use caution on any wood you don't want to change the color of.
I'm thinking the oils may darken the wood? Then again it would be in small amounts being dripped ...... I dunno.

 

[SpaceBus]

Mineral oil works wonders too. I'd have to say use caution on any wood you don't want to change the color of.
I'm thinking the oils may darken the wood? Then again it would be in small amounts being dripped ...... I dunno.

I don't like using mineral oil, most of my lumber will be used for animal housing and I don't want to end up eating the oil myself. After reading about loggers using canola oil when near waterways and wetlands I started using it myself. I also have a gallon of DGP environmentally friendly bar lube, but it is quite spendy. Haven't tried it yet, but I plan on mixing some of it with the canola oil when I get the mill up and running again.

 

[davidwyby]

I don't like using mineral oil, most of my lumber will be used for animal housing and I don't want to end up eating the oil myself. After reading about loggers using canola oil when near waterways and wetlands I started using it myself. I also have a gallon of DGP environmentally friendly bar lube, but it is quite spendy. Haven't tried it yet, but I plan on mixing some of it with the canola oil when I get the mill up and running again.

I’d like to see your drip.


I’m planning to try water soluble oil to keep bar and chain cool in big dry hard eucalyptus.

straight water was a mistake.

 

[SpaceBus]

I’d like to see your drip.


I’m planning to try water soluble oil to keep bar and chain cool in big dry hard eucalyptus.

straight water was a mistake.

I worry that the soap in the water will prevent the oil from sticking where it is supposed to, but maybe it doesn't matter? I'm going to look into water soluble oil, that sounds like a good plan.

This is what I use.
https://www.logosol.com/store/water-cooling-f2-f2.html

 

[Guido Salvage]

Knocked out some more pine tonight.

 

[5155]

Glad to find this. After 6 tanks of pine tar the beatnik needs a flat file and a bath.

 

[Nutball]

Knocked out some more pine tonight.

View attachment 295180

Do you seal the ends? Do the logs sit for a specific time to dry or stabilize or do you just use a kiln?

I have a bunch of pine and some poplar I want to mill soon. Bugs are just starting to get under the bark. I've been working on debarking them, but 2 logs that are a few months older are at the point where the bark doesn't take much effort to fall off in big shells due to larva and fungus under the bark. The wood otherwise seems solid. Do you think those 2 white pine logs are worth milling or are they ruined?

 

[SpaceBus]

I'll try just about any log on the mill if it is straight enough

 

[davidwyby]

Do you seal the ends? Do the logs sit for a specific time to dry or stabilize or do you just use a kiln?

I have a bunch of pine and some poplar I want to mill soon. Bugs are just starting to get under the bark. I've been working on debating them, but 2 logs that are a few months older are at the point where the bark doesn't take much effort to fall off in big shells due to larva and fungus under the bark. The wood otherwise seems solid. Do you think those 2 white pine logs are worth milling or are they ruined?

take a peek with a quick freehand cut

 

[Guido Salvage]

Pine is a soft wood and not rot resistant and is prone to bug infestations. I have some that has been down for 3 years, the heart is still good. The bug eaten boards I cut into stickers for stacking.

 

[sledneck22]

Pine is a soft wood and not rot resistant and is prone to bug infestations. I have some that has been down for 3 years, the heart is still good. The bug eaten boards I cut into stickers for stacking.

Has anyone used Pine with a water sealer or finish of any kind to prevent rot with some effectiveness? I have some 100 ft pines that are 14-18" diameter that need to go. They are straight as an arrow and hardly any branches until 75' up. I feel like they'd make great lumber. However, the lumber would be used outside, for a wood shed and for a pergola/gazebo type structures. I'd have a tin roof on each but worry about rot at the point of soil contact.
I'm also new to the milling game. I have my 2095 and a Homelite 925 that would do the job I imagine. I don't look to make milling a full time past time but would like use the tools I have with 4x4x8' treated post being $20 a piece. I could by a new mill for the price of just the corner posts needed.

 

[SpaceBus]

Has anyone used Pine with a water sealer or finish of any kind to prevent rot with some effectiveness? I have some 100 ft pines that are 14-18" diameter that need to go. They are straight as an arrow and hardly any branches until 75' up. I feel like they'd make great lumber. However, the lumber would be used outside, for a wood shed and for a pergola/gazebo type structures. I'd have a tin roof on each but worry about rot at the point of soil contact.
I'm also new to the milling game. I have my 2095 and a Homelite 925 that would do the job I imagine. I don't look to make milling a full time past time but would like use the tools I have with 4x4x8' treated post being $20 a piece. I could by a new mill for the price of just the corner posts needed.

Keep the soil away from the wood and it should not rot. Use gravel and/or sand as a backfill.