Matt's first 064

[dall]

So I tore down the saw and started cleaning parts. Everything went pretty well with the exception of 2 things.
1. I should have known better than to put the name plate badge on the recoil in the dishwasher
2. the oil pump to bar oiler hole is impossible to remove. I finally got it off the pump after about half an hour a set of channel locks and a set of needle nose. The thing is so hard I can barely squeeze it with the needle nose. How does it come off of the other side? is it a male hose barb out of the case?

when putting new oil hose on put it in warm water until it softens a little bit

 

[Spladle160]

Gotta get the old line off first. I did see a brass ferrule. Should I try to pull that somehow then bring the old line out that way?

 

[dall]

Gotta get the old line off first. I did see a brass ferrule. Should I try to pull that somehow then bring the old line out that way?

if im changing it out for a new one i cut it and slip it out ferrule and part of the hose

 

[PA Dan]

if im changing it out for a new one i cut it and slip it out ferrule and part of the hose

What he said! I tried the hot water and it didnt help. I used a heat gun and melted the first one. Lower heat and farther away and I got it perfect the second time. Story of my life I think...

 

[redline4]

What he said! I tried the hot water and it didnt help. I used a heat gun and melted the first one. Lower heat and farther away and I got it perfect the second time. Story of my life I think...

I'm a member of that club too Dan.
Thought I finished putting together the first 046 Ive been in last night.
Until I found that some dumb chit forgot the seal on the output side of the pump..
I noticed that my bar was dry, and my boot was well lubricated..

 

[Spladle160]

Should be good waterproofing right? I actually did have some luck with lots of hot water for removing the old line from the case. I stuck the case in the dishwasher and when it came out the ferrule came out of the line easily and the line slid on out without too much fuss.

 

[Glock37]

This is what your 064 you want it too look like
Rattler has it he just ported it
Dustin will bring it back early aug


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Spladle160]

Close but I want to reuse as many of the original parts as possible that still can be made to look 90% so I'll keep the old style caps, top cover, carb housing and opaque tank as well as the old made in Germany and 064AV electronic quick stop badging. Trying to make it as close to 1986 as possible.

 

[Spladle160]

Well, I got my better than new looking case halves, starter housing, and exhaust back from @Glock37 and pressed in the new OEM bearings.
I painted the black stripes on the clutch and recoil covers and put the tag back on.

 

[Spladle160]

I measured the case opening and crank lobes and divided by 2 for my crank clearance. I used the farmertec tool to pull the crank through the clutch side and it worked fine but the crank clearance seemed to open up when I pulled the tool off. Half a dozen adjustments later I had it where I wanted.

 

[Spladle160]

I couldn't see where the farmertec tool would work on the flywheel side and I know I could have used temp or just pushed it on but both have their potential drawbacks so I shot a PM to @Mattyo and ordered up his tool kit. Oddly enough I stumbled into his life feed 10 minutes later by accident (I didn't even know it was a thing) and mentioned the new order. He stopped working on his 262xp assembly and packed up my tool kit right there on the spot! Once USPS got their stuff together this showed up.

 

[Spladle160]

After adding some loctite 518 to the gasket and loctite 242 to the case bolts I used the @Mattyo tool to pull the crank through in conjunction with the case bolts.

 

[Fruecrue]

Hooray 064!
I’ve got another in the works as well.

 

[Spladle160]

So there appeared to be pros and cons to both crank pullers.

Farmertec:
Pros: it can be used to both pull and push. Construction quality seems decent.
Cons: odd torque and pressure on case, can't do flywheel side that I can tell

MattyO kit:
Pros: can do both sides on virtually any saw since sleeves and rods can be custom ordered or just machined if you have access. Fantastic customer service. Tool quality seems reasonable. It's aluminum not steel but I see no reason that's an issue.

Cons: the tools could be a little cleaner and and one handle was slightly bent but none of that actually affects use. The only drawback I can see is the potential to push bearings back into the case. I don't know how big an issue that really is since the can't go but so far. I think I may have done this on the fly wheel side a tiny bit but I could be imagining it.

 

[Spladle160]

Once the case halves were together and the excess sealant was cleaned up I carefully installed the seals and flywheel. No timing advance for now.

 

[Spladle160]

Next I flipped it over and got to try out these modified $2.49 needle nose from Harbor Freight

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

With oil on the crank, it’s unlikely to move a bearing once the case is cooled around it. Having said that, it’s possible (especially if the bearing pocket isn’t perfectly tight).

 

[Spladle160]

I boiled the line. I had the tool. I read the instructions. I read the forum posts. It still sucked.... but turned out decent.

 

[Spladle160]

That's where it's at for now other than reassembling the starter with a new spring and elast-o-start. Next up is de-flashing the new meteor piston and checking squish to see if it's getting a gasket.

 

[Spladle160]

I've never done a full split, bearings, seals etc. And it really surprised me just how much drag the seals added. Are there lower drag seals for hot saws and such where you're less worried about longevity?