High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

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SpaceBus

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You just need a tiny saw.
Your 20" bar will kill 25" trees all day everyday with ease.
40-1 cause we can make this an oil thread :D

A 39x with a 20" or less bar needs a nine pin to be practical lol
Says it again out loud lol
Good luck wif your forearms while trimming. They might fall off :p

The 395xp is only used for the mill, it doesn't do any cross cutting, ever. My 460 with 20" bar comes out to fell 14" and up trees. Anything smaller than that can be handled by my Stihl MS150. The 460 was used on the mill for a handful of logs when the 395 was down waiting for a new coil.

Are you saying the 395 won't work well with a 20" or 16" bar?
 

SpaceBus

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I cut these down with my Stihl MS150.
 

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Lightning Performance

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The 395xp is only used for the mill, it doesn't do any cross cutting, ever. My 460 with 20" bar comes out to fell 14" and up trees. Anything smaller than that can be handled by my Stihl MS150. The 460 was used on the mill for a handful of logs when the 395 was down waiting for a new coil.

Are you saying the 395 won't work well with a 20" or 16" bar?
Oh no I'm saying the saw becomes a big handful on a short bar unless your just milling. It will flat out fly on the mill with a 16" 9p or a 20" 9p. Just don't touch the bar tip on anything and your good. They get dangerous reeeeeeal fast with a short bar and big grunt. No weight out there to keep it from turning over on you. Wrong place, wrong time, you get fatigued and mistakes happen. 95cc mistakes are never good. I was bucking friday with my ticked up a notch not ported 084 with a 41" ES and it kicked me out of the log. 52" oak said back off and punched me right in the gut when the trunk shifted. Fun times always over 100cc.

That 39x is very dangerous with a short bar. It trucks right along with a 37" or 40" and buries you in chip. Moves pretty quick with a 36" 404. Putting on a 28" roller on my 084 next to test that on the mill in 3/8 050.
 

SpaceBus

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Then I think it is worth an experiment to put a 16" roller nose on the 395xp for mill duty. Especially for these fence posts I'm cutting.
 

Lightning Performance

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Then I think it is worth an experiment to put a 16" roller nose on the 395xp for mill duty. Especially for these fence posts I'm cutting.
By all means do it or use a twenty and double up your materials.

I scored a locked up old Logmaster saw because it has a roller nose on it. They are a good thing on the mill. One more sprocket in the wind cooling the chain imo. This bar is around a 20" on that saw
The 28" roller tall tail is a Sabre brandy new 050 but it is tweaked. I'll send it to the machine shop this week for some more holes in the tail, go use the press there to fix it and then I'll cut in the new feed holes here. It should be sweet. Need it on a saw soon to run lp and nk chains. My next reels to get in 050 semi chisel.
 
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SpaceBus

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Got the roll of chain and the TsuMura bar today. I also ordered a Tecomec "Deluxe" bar mounted sharpening jig. I like it better than my Granberg bar mounted 12v grinding jig. The adjustment screws/nuts are in better placement for more precise adjustments. There's also a tooth stop adjustment that is lacking on the Granberg versions. The file holder portion is unfortunately plastic, but it works very well. I'm sure if I am careful with the jig it will last forever.

The breaker and spinner will be here tomorrow, hopefully. It is supposed to rain all day tomorrow, but this weekend I should be able to build a bench to mount the tools on and have a loop put together.
 

SpaceBus

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@SpaceBus

Pics of the jig.


Don't judge the chain, it's my first ever saw chain and I have given it hell. Figured it was a good pic to try out the jig. My favorite part about the jig is that the file holder slot is shaped for round, three angle, and flat for rakers. Pretty slick. These rakers were taken down with my grinder "a few thou" to the point where I like the way they cut in softwoods, which is pretty much the only thing I cut. Next time I'll use this jig, it was clearly designed with the rakers in mind. The Granberg jig treats the rakers like an afterthought, but it can take a three angle file.

Kind of funny, but I got a very multinational package today. Sharpening jig made in Italy, chain was made in China, and the bar was made in Japan, but it all shipped out of MN.
 

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Lightning Performance

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Don't judge the chain, it's my first ever saw chain and I have given it hell. Figured it was a good pic to try out the jig. My favorite part about the jig is that the file holder slot is shaped for round, three angle, and flat for rakers. Pretty slick. These rakers were taken down with my grinder "a few thou" to the point where I like the way they cut in softwoods, which is pretty much the only thing I cut. Next time I'll use this jig, it was clearly designed with the rakers in mind. The Granberg jig treats the rakers like an afterthought, but it can take a three angle file.

Kind of funny, but I got a very multinational package today. Sharpening jig made in Italy, chain was made in China, and the bar was made in Japan, but it all shipped out of MN.
Same as Oregon bar mount jigs. The one I have might take a small triangle to sharpen square real nice.
 

SpaceBus

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Same as Oregon bar mount jigs. The one I have might take a small triangle to sharpen square real nice.
Yes, this is the new Oregon jig, just without the stickers. While shopping a few years ago I looked at the previous version of the Oregon jig before going with the Granberg. I've read the original Granberg jigs are the best, but they stopped making them some time ago. Honestly I didn't expect the Tecomec to be so good, and I'll probably be using this thing until I build a proper shed/workshop that can accommodate a proper grinder.
 

SpaceBus

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I meant to say, that loop is 72 drive links and goes on my Husky 460 with 20" bar. The bar in the photo is a cheap used bar I got on ebay just for sharpening loops. Much more convenient for sharpening multiple loops.
 

SpaceBus

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Granberg likes to take half the cutters on a ripping chain and convert them to "scoring cutters". Would it be worthwhile to set up one of my Archer loops like that? Never used the Granberg style ripping chain, but have always been curious.
 

Lightning Performance

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Granberg likes to take half the cutters on a ripping chain and convert them to "scoring cutters". Would it be worthwhile to set up one of my Archer loops like that? Never used the Granberg style ripping chain, but have always been curious.
Try it.
I'm trying it with 404
 

SpaceBus

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I use a 4" grinder to thin out or fix hit cutters. You want a side plate there and not much else.
Do you keep the chain on the saw with the chain brake engaged or something? I'm having a hard time finding a tool that will hold the chain securely.
 

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Granberg likes to take half the cutters on a ripping chain and convert them to "scoring cutters". Would it be worthwhile to set up one of my Archer loops like that? Never used the Granberg style ripping chain, but have always been curious.
my Granberg ripping chain cut super slow, so i curious how you make out.
 

SpaceBus

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my Granberg ripping chain cut super slow, so i curious how you make out.
I've seen mixed reviews on it. I figure one 60DL loop to test is worth it. If it works out then I'll make the 84DL loops the same. I'm thinking about offering mobile sawyer services starting at $.45/BF for softwoods and a bit higher for hardwoods. We will see how much faster this new 3/8 LP rips after my spinner and breaker get here.
 
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