High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

Let’s build a Husky 350.

MemphisMechanic

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I tried ordering from Firedog & they just refunded my order on the 346xp cylinder.

Cylinder: I went ahead and ordered from the cheapest place Google could find me that looked reputable. Used PayPal because they’re quick to refund you if you’re ripped off.

I’ll let you know if it actually ships or not!

A Hyway top end with pop up is $120, so I consider an extra $30-40 to be money very well spent.

I’ll be curious to see what kind of squish clearance I get with the 346 upper. Wether I need to do work to the cylinder base and the squish band to get the most out of this saw. If so I’ll probably resort to sanding the band and cylinder base carefully like I usually do. I’m not blessed with a lathe.
 

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MemphisMechanic

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Making a little progress on the saw. I picked up a straight-gassed 455 Rancher for $50 a while back. Tore it apart and most of it went on eBay, but it’s coming in handy!

Drum / Sprocket: Ordered an Oregon 108215X and have .325 sprockets in 7T and 8T coming for it. I assume it’ll spene it’s whole life wearing an 8 pin, but I like options.

Bar: I had planned on a $100 Sugihara… but at half the price, I decided to give the new Forester Featherlite you guys are chatting about a shot in the .325 by 18” flavor. Hanging out here actually saved me money for once!

Chain Tensioner: pulled it off the 350 so I can run a 455 Rancher clutch cover with the tensioner built into the cover. Covers are nearly identical.

Unlimited Coil: Happily discovered the 346XP unlimited black coil also fits the Rancher. Checked the box of parts. Jackpot. So I saved $80 on the 544047022 coil right there.

Dye: I’ve decided to dye or paint the entire saw black. Have seen one Husky like that somewhere, and it looked incrediblly sharp.

(EDIT: Found the photo on an old AS thread by googling “dyed black husqvarna chainsaw.” Turned out to be the exact same model.)
 

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MemphisMechanic

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Bucking Spikes / Dogs: I don’t like any of the curent options. They’re either stubby factory ones… or these giant bastards that cost you 2” of bar length and look like they belong on a 70cc:


I think I’m going to design my own inner & outer dogs, use my CNC wood laser to cut sets out of thin plywood until I have something I like, then have a few sets water-jetted to sell and cover the cost of the process.

I want them: Long enough to provide a kickstand beneath the bar and bite into thick pine bark. Short enough to let me use the full bar length and not tear my pants to shreds while it’s hung off my hip during a climbing removal.

Similar to the set I fabricobbled together for the skinny 1/4” Panther bar on my ported Echo 355T a while back. But cleaner.
 

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MemphisMechanic

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OEM 346XP jug and piston?

If that turns out to be the case that would be fantastic, being that tight and close. One of the disappointing things about Chyway cylinders (at least on Stihl’s) is losing the base gasket, only to find you still need to deck the cylinder to get anywhere near acceptable squish.
 
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Nate.

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Any luck on a cylinder & piston kit? I bought 5 of those ones on eBay & I’d let one go if ya need it.
 

MemphisMechanic

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Any luck on a cylinder & piston kit? I bought 5 of those ones on eBay & I’d let one go if ya need it.

I ordered one as stated above. I’ll check on it soon and if they don’t have it shipped with tracking? I’ll get in touch with you for certain. Thanks!

Tomorrow I plan to strip it down to bare cases. I’ve decided to try dyeing the entire saw including rear handle / fuel tank and the crank case. So EVERYTHING comes apart.

(i usually throw crank seals in a bottom end and leave resr handle / crankcase / motor mounts untouched as an assembly, as long as they pass inspection.)
 

David Young

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just my opinion...
if you are putting this much into it. I would look for a magnesium bottom. most of the parts will swap except the top cover and starter cover screws.
 

MemphisMechanic

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just my opinion...
if you are putting this much into it. I would look for a magnesium bottom. most of the parts will swap except the top cover and starter cover screws.
If I manage to nuke the bottom end on this one I’ll go with a 346 case to replace it.

Appeal of plastic is (1) Parts saw is 300% cheaper (2) Weight (3) I can dye the entire saw black, minus the clutch cover.
 
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Wolverine

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Making a little progress on the saw. I picked up a straight-gassed 455 Rancher for $50 a while back. Tore it apart and most of it went on eBay, but it’s coming in handy!

Drum / Sprocket: Ordered an Oregon 108215X and have .325 sprockets in 7T and 8T coming for it. I assume it’ll spene it’s whole life wearing an 8 pin, but I like options.

Bar: I had planned on a $100 Sugihara… but at half the price, I decided to give the new Forester Featherlite you guys are chatting about a shot in the .325 by 18” flavor. Hanging out here actually saved me money for once!

Chain Tensioner: pulled it off the 350 so I can run a 455 Rancher clutch cover with the tensioner built into the cover. Covers are nearly identical.

Unlimited Coil: Happily discovered the 346XP unlimited black coil also fits the Rancher. Checked the box of parts. Jackpot. So I saved $80 on the 544047022 coil right there.

Dye: I’ve decided to dye or paint the entire saw black. Have seen one Husky like that somewhere, and it looked incrediblly sharp.

(EDIT: Found the photo on an old AS thread by googling “dyed black husqvarna chainsaw.” Turned out to be the exact same model.)
Here's my Jonseblack 2150. Love the power to weight of the plastic bottomed ported versions. King of the plastic saws.
 

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MemphisMechanic

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Any luck on a cylinder & piston kit? I bought 5 of those ones on eBay & I’d let one go if ya need it.

Status is “awaiting shipment”

I need to call them tomorrow, they’re closed today. Let’s just say that I’m less than hopeful.
 

Wolverine

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I ground out the riser dividers too. That was a topic of debate when I did it. Some guys filled them in w/ JB at an angle.
20170626_202006.jpg

Can see it on this pic. I was peeking at wash pattern.
 

MemphisMechanic

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Change in plans….

The neighbor stopped by, saw this project, and wants me to build one of these for him. He’s a big fan of the 044 amd 395 I have built and ported, but as a 74 year old just getting over a battle with leukemia, they’re a bit much for him to start, and too heavy for him to wield.

So. I’m building the saw with gold old @Duke Thieroff ‘s 350 top end. Just ordered one. I’ll port it up and see how I like it and that will eventually go on the neighbor’s saw. I’ll chase down a 346NE upper for my saw someday, unless a ported 350 top end blows me away.

You guys have consistently had surprisingly decent things to say about Duke’s uppers, and at $40, the absolute worst case is it ends up being a pratice jug to mess around with grinding on before buying the $$$ one.
 

MemphisMechanic

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Okay… let’s talk portijg numbers.

My gut wants to shoot for something like 78/105/120 on a saw this size. Am I way off base here?

Top end should be here tomorrow so I plan to dig in and see what we’ll have to spindle, fold, and mutilate to make it run hard.
 

thedude74

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Okay… let’s talk portijg numbers.

My gut wants to shoot for something like 78/105/120 on a saw this size. Am I way off base here?

Top end should be here tomorrow so I plan to dig in and see what we’ll have to spindle, fold, and mutilate to make it run hard.
Those numbers sound pretty good. I've read several sources that say they like18-20* blow down.
On my husky 350 build I ended up at 76,104,124.

Here's a good build thread with port timing #s.
If not mistaken @farminkarman ported several cylinders before determining the best overall numbers for a worksaw.
 
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