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Let’s build a Husky 350.

Woodrow

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I keep seeing comments to the effect of top ends being cheap, but it looks like $180 for an OEM kit is the best I’ll find:


Is the 44.3 346XP upper the best choice to make power with this saw? Asking guys who’ve built a few ported hotrod 350’s.
Check out Firedog.com Part number 544 14 29-08 is the piston and cylinder kit OEM Husqvarna part. $119.72
 

MemphisMechanic

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Edit: The Duke’s 346 top ends run great. When ported I can’t really tell them apart from OEM in the performance dept. Never have run one right out of the box fwiw.

This is the direction I’ll probably head then, thanks!

I have owned several 346's some ported and to cut a log 3 seconds faster than what that little 350 I own would not be worth it to me IMO

Since the top end is roached anyway, I’ll spend my money on building it do it cuts as hard as possible. Why build a saw to factory specs when you can build a ported one with five times as much labor!

That’s pretty much the ethos of this forum. 😂

On a sincere note? This one will spend a lot of time 80 ft up in a sprawling Oak tree. The harder it pulls, the more time I spend with the little guy on my hip, before the 372 or MS460 gets sent up.
 
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MemphisMechanic

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Check out Firedog.com Part number 544 14 29-08 is the piston and cylinder kit OEM Husqvarna part. $119.72


It looks like they’re selling the cylinder only. Not the full kit. I keep finding cylinders for $120ish and the full top end for $180ish.
 

MemphisMechanic

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Edit: The Duke’s 346 top ends run great. When ported I can’t really tell them apart from OEM in the performance dept. Never have run one right out of the box fwiw.


$45 is almost terrifyingly cheap. Once you spend sustantial amounts of time fixing port timing and bevels, etc… how much time have you honestly put on one of these?

This saw will get run professionally. Run hard and run often. I’m reluctant to put a Chinese upper on it. I am, however, open to being talked into it.
 

farminkarman

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farminkarman

I like the red & black ones
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$45 is almost terrifyingly cheap. Once you spend sustantial amounts of time fixing port timing and bevels, etc… how much time have you honestly put on one of these?

This saw will get run professionally. Run hard and run often. I’m reluctant to put a Chinese upper on it. I am, however, open to being talked into it.
As I said, I have not run one of these out of the box. So I put the same amount of effort into one of these as I do an OEM unit.
 

MemphisMechanic

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That par

that is the p/n for the whole kit, not just the jug.

It is, yes. However a bit of googling will find numerous sites selling just the jug out of that kit for this price:

I will reach out to firedog’s staff, and hopefully they can verify that it is indeed a complete top end kit.
 

drf256

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Personally, id get the oem kit. It’s rare that any AM cylinder will run as well or last as long as the oem‘s will.

The only AM cylinders I’ve seen that have better than OEM plating are the meteor cylinders. It’s so tough it breaks tooling often. I trust the plating and the bores, but the transfer tunnels lack the finesse of the oem castings. Very hard to make the same power from them vs oem.

It’s pretty depressing when you put time into a cylinder and then it fails. Happened to me with an 028S Hyway jug. The plating wore right through after a few tanks. Never again.

IMG_1117.jpeg
 

wcorey

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That part # at Firedog is the Husqvarna # for the whole kit...
They also list 544142907 for $111, which I think is the typically less expensive non decomp version , though it shows a decomp on the ipl.
Who needs decomp on 50cc anyway, one more thing to fail...
 

Wood Doctor

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We are still rebuilding a Husky 350, right? I rebuilt two of them and both run nicely today. The best enhancement I ever made to one of them was from my 353 that locked on the two muffler bolts as if they were welded:
1707001846462.jpeg
I simply reshaped the part because it could only be attached with one machine screw on the left. Regardless, this retainer works flawlessly and the two bolts holding the muffler to the cylinder have never come loose. It should also work fine in Tennessee.
 

Wood Doctor

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@Wood Doctor that’s a factory 353 part? I had planned to buy the 346XP’s muffler bracket and cut the extra leg off.
Yes it is, even though my IPL does not show it. Your plan is the same as what I did. I was working on a 350 that a friend asked me to fix and I saw where my 353 had a support in place. Without it, the bolts on a 350 tend to vibrate lose. The 353 has a threaded receptacle on the case for the second leg and the 350 does not. But, one leg works fine. HLSupply has them.

Part #: 544809801
 
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Stump Shot

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It is, yes. However a bit of googling will find numerous sites selling just the jug out of that kit for this price:

I will reach out to firedog’s staff, and hopefully they can verify that it is indeed a complete top end kit.
Husqvarna doesn't offer just a cylinder, they all come with a piston, rings, pin and bearing.
A piston you can buy by itself, note the lines in the picture of the IPL to see what all comes with the part you order. If it connects to 5 items, then those 5 come with the one-part number for example.
 

MemphisMechanic

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Okay. Had seen some reference to the use of a Rancher’s oil pump on one of these saws to bump the oiler output. Pulled on out of a 455 I’m selling for parts on eBay….

Same part number. 😂

IMG_0263.jpeg

Looks like I’ll be modding the factory pump by grinding the bevel a few degrees steeper.

Need to order:
1. That 346XP top end.
2. Crank seals.
3. Primer bulb.
4. Rebuild factory carb or install a larger one off another model to feed the ported saw?
5. Ignition coil: definitely want to pick up a black unlimited coil.
6. Considering dyeing the plastics all black. Not sure which way I’ll go on that one.
7. A good clamp for the intake boot. Suggestions? An 026’s was far too small. Maybe I’ll grab one off an 044 and try it.
 
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