Klotz Oil Thread

[Marshy]

... I pretty much guarantee I won't be out in weather cold enough to freeze my balls off just to cut wood, so I think I am safe. Lol

You're a snowflake arnt you?

You’ll be fine then. It can fall out overnight sitting in real cold temperatures.

I make sure I give my can a good shake before I pour. First one of the day I shake hard, after that just a good slosh.

 

[Deets066]

You're a snowflake arnt you?


I make sure I give my can a good shake before I pour. First one of the day I shake hard, after that just a good slosh.

Same same

 

[usmcbuckwild]

I don’t know if I would run that. There are 2 things that are questionable: the 276* flashpoint and the film strength.

The 276* flashpoint means the oil itself will begin to burn at approx 276* (typically +/- 3%) which is well below typical cylinder temperatures of a chainsaw. That means the oil can lose it lubricity and contribute to carbon build up as it burns.

The film strength is respectable but I would expect better especially for high rpm as seen in chainsaws. Higher rpm requires better film strength and heavier film. Since it is only rated for 10,000 rpm I would imagine the film depth is on the thin side. The viscosity and pour point is quite low, which means the oil is very thin, too thin in my opinion.

This coupled with the suspension issues makes me question its viability for use in your saws.

Just my $0.02

 

[RI Chevy]

Same same

X3. I slosh it hard! lol

 

[Cut4fun]

If I am running Klotz. It will only be the Original 100% synthetic KL200.

Is it bad I been running klotz long enough now, 11 years that I cant even notice the smell anymore. Lot of guys tell me they love how their saws smell after I work on them LMAO smh

 

[Cut4fun]

Which one did you get? Original works fine in the winter from my use down to 10 degrees. That’s about as cold as I’ll get it and run a saw in. Snowmobile techniplate will work well below 0.

We had a Jan 2010 gtg once and I think it started off at -7F and got to 0F if I recall right. Few of the saws acted up but 8 out of 10 were fine. If I were to put a number on it.

No benoil or super for me.

 

[jakethesnake]

Sometimes

Meh. Maybe my mix was too rich. These were 50 cc saws. Both saws left in the back of the truck. Couldn’t keep them running. Only plugs I ever fouled up. Who knows. I’ll get through the rest of what I have. Smells kinda good but I’m done with it

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Like Bret....
I have run the snowmobile techniplate with no issues. I actually a noticed a small gain in RPM and throttle response.
Both in the 7900 & 661.

 

[kingOFgEEEks]

I've been running only this at 32:1 for 2 years now:

Summer and winter. It burns fine, smells like strawberries, and my saws seem to be liking it. I need to tear one down one of these days to see...

 

[RI Chevy]

Where do you get it?

 

[kingOFgEEEks]

Where do you get it?

My uncle gets it in bulk, because he rides sleds so much. I'm pretty sure you can buy it online, though.

I paid $45 for 4 litres 2 years ago.

 

[RI Chevy]

OK. TY

 

[Adirondackstihl]

I've been running only this at 32:1 for 2 years now:
View attachment 150529
Summer and winter. It burns fine, smells like strawberries, and my saws seem to be liking it. I need to tear one down one of these days to see...

BIL ran that in his sled.
Smells great!
Too bad he was always behind me.
Lucky for him, Klotz smells good too!
LOL

 

[RI Chevy]

LOL

 

[mdavlee]

I don’t know if I would run that. There are 2 things that are questionable: the 276* flashpoint and the film strength.

The 276* flashpoint means the oil itself will begin to burn at approx 276* (typically +/- 3%) which is well below typical cylinder temperatures of a chainsaw. That means the oil can lose it lubricity and contribute to carbon build up as it burns.

The film strength is respectable but I would expect better especially for high rpm as seen in chainsaws. Higher rpm requires better film strength and heavier film. Since it is only rated for 10,000 rpm I would imagine the film depth is on the thin side. The viscosity and pour point is quite low, which means the oil is very thin, too thin in my opinion.

This coupled with the suspension issues makes me question its viability for use in your saws.

Just my $0.02

If you’re talking about the Kl200 I’ve run it in everything I’ve owned for years. Mixed with methanol/nitro too. Cliff Helsel uses it in the 3160 saws. Lots of other oils have flash points at 210 or so.

 

[Cut4fun]

If you’re talking about the Kl200 I’ve run it in everything I’ve owned for years. Mixed with methanol/nitro too. Cliff Helsel uses it in the 3160 saws. Lots of other oils have flash points at 210 or so.

Not Original kl200 just going by his numbers. http://www.klotzlube.com/techsheets/KL-200 Tech Sheet.pdf

He is talking about the snowmobile stuff numbers kl215 http://www.klotzlube.com/techsheets/KL-215 Tech Sheet.pdf

 

[usmcbuckwild]

If you’re talking about the Kl200 I’ve run it in everything I’ve owned for years. Mixed with methanol/nitro too. Cliff Helsel uses it in the 3160 saws. Lots of other oils have flash points at 210 or so.

The flashpoint isn’t as derogatory as the film strength. I don’t LIKE the flash point being low, but its not a dealbreaker. The seemingly less than optimal film strength (which typically also indicates poor film thickness) is the biggest concern. Very thin, non-shear resistant (the film strength is an indicator of this) oil with a low flash point is asking for trouble. The thicker oils with better “cling” and film strength will be more resitant to shear and will also retain a higher flashpoint.

Having 2 oils with the same flashpoint but oil A has a high viscosity and film strength, while oil B is low viscosity and film strength which oil do you think will flash off and lose its protective abilities first?

 

[Cut4fun]

Its a 8 out of 10 film strength. ? You lost me on that one.

8 is enough for 4K saws with crazy rpms Helsel built.

Only oil I trusted in it back then.

 

[usmcbuckwild]

Its a 8 out of 10 film strength. ? You lost me on that one.

8 is enough for 4K saws with crazy rpms Helsel built.

Only oil I trusted in it back then.

View attachment 150594

Its my opinion. Personally i would rather have the “10 out of 10” than “8 out of 10” (however they grade their oils in-house). Good oil is cheap insurance, at least in my opinion. I won’t tell anyone not to use it, I simply voiced what I thought given the information. I don’t have a complete specification analysis to compare, but given what I saw, I wouldn’t take the chance. I’ve been wrong before, i’ll be wrong again. No problem admitting that. OP was looking for advice, I offered mine.

 

[mdavlee]

I’d say some saw oils would be in the 3 of 10 on their rating scale. I know the 10 of R50 is way overkill in a saw to the point it won’t burn at all unless a high load milling.

Not saying you’re wrong. Just seems it has to be good oil for guys to run it in sleds that have way more HP than 10 saws together