Just another 3120xp build......but it's MY first

[Canadian farm boy]

Starting to look a little bit like a saw again. I noticed there is only one blue coil wire going to the kill switch. No additional black ground wire.
View attachment 316191

Judging from this hole, it's supposed to have a self grounding switch. Instead of this one that was in there. Makes more sense now why it wasn't working.
View attachment 316193
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So, I'll either have to buy the correct switch with the eyelet, or just make my own short ground wire, to screw it down to the case.

Ima cheap azz so I know which option I’d be doing on a personal saw that I intended on keeping.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Starting to look a little bit like a saw again. I noticed there is only one blue coil wire going to the kill switch. No additional black ground wire.
View attachment 316191

Judging from this hole, it's supposed to have a self grounding switch. Instead of this one that was in there. Makes more sense now why it wasn't working.
View attachment 316193
View attachment 316198

So, I'll either have to buy the correct switch with the eyelet, or just make my own short ground wire, to screw it down to the case. It's all the crippy crap little things that start to suck the time out of you haha. I get lucky a lot of the time. Other times I "small parts" myself into an extra $100 bill on a build.

My 394 had the self grounding switch that screwed down . I made a short ground wire and converted it to the brush cutter switch.
Had to use a right angle spade connector in there.

 

[qurotro]

The silicone on the oil pump is to prevent saw dust getting behind the oil pump i guess. They did it from factory.

 

[Flying_Dutchman]

Starting to look a little bit like a saw again. I noticed there is only one blue coil wire going to the kill switch. No additional black ground wire.
View attachment 316191

Judging from this hole, it's supposed to have a self grounding switch. Instead of this one that was in there. Makes more sense now why it wasn't working.
View attachment 316193
View attachment 316198

So, I'll either have to buy the correct switch with the eyelet, or just make my own short ground wire, to screw it down to the case. It's all the crippy crap little things that start to suck the time out of you haha. I get lucky a lot of the time. Other times I "small parts" myself into an extra $100 bill on a build.

PM me your address. I'll have a new switch sent to you. [emoji106]

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

 

[Benwa]

I made a short ground wire and converted it to the brush cutter switch.

Thanks for reminding me I have a stock pile of these from doing 372xp's!

 

[Benwa]

Well thanks to @Maintenance Chief for reminding me, I went with the momentary style kill switch off the 223L brush cutter. Like I mentioned, the original switch was meant to be self grounding. I had to make a short ground wire in order for this to work.
There wasn't much room between the case and the switch, so I just soldered the wire directly to the switch so I didn't have to try and fit a spade connector under there.


I just looped the ground wire around the mounting point for the intake horn & secured it with the bolt. I left the carb out to show it better, but even with the carb installed, there is plenty of room and no impediment.


I'm a big fan of this momentary style switch that returns to run, being as forgetful as I am. Husqvarna part number is 537419001 if anyone is interested.

 

[Benwa]

PM me your address. I'll have a new switch sent to you. [emoji106]

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

I ended up using one I had on hand. Thank you so much for generosity of the offer! You're a good man.

 

[davidwyby]

Careful the wire doesn’t rub through the insulation and ground out!

 

[Benwa]

Careful the wire doesn’t rub through the insulation and ground out!

Haha

 

[Benwa]

Well, I got new oem anti vibe buffers installed. (Hard versions, not sure if they even still sell soft ones or not.)

I completely lucked out on this saw in terms of fasteners. I thought EVERYTHING was stripped out. It wasn't, although almost every screw was either the wrong size/thread pitch or it was just too short for its intended purpose. So, I tracked down the right fasteners and we're stylin'. The only two that didn't hold tight once I had the right hardware, were the two side screws for the handlebar. At $5 a piece plus shipping for factory, I just grabbed some #12 x 1.25" panhead screws and knocked the tip off them. These were the same diameter as stock.

I think I need to step up to #14 or use the old "cram a zip tie in with it" snug 'er up technique! They aren't prefect, but the handlebar is mounted.

 

[Benwa]

I ran the factory Walbro WG6 carb through the ultrasonic and installed a new factory Walbro kit.

I have no idea why manufacturers choose to do this. The kit came with the "forked" metering lever, but the diaphragm doesn't have the "tit" on it like the original one that hooks into the metering lever. It's just flat. I'm guessing this will work, or does the kit straight up have the wrong diaphragm in it? Did I buy the wrong kit? ............. we'll soon find out.

Slapped it all together and topped it off with the new air filter. Should be a runner soon!

 

[davidwyby]

I think mine was missing the tit too.

I think I put some 1/4” round head Allen screws in there that I thought would work for the handle. Coincidentally use the same Allen wrench as the husky screws.

 

[Benwa]

I think mine was missing the tit too.

I think I put some 1/4” round head Allen screws in there that I thought would work for the handle. Coincidentally use the same Allen wrench as the husky screws.

Thanks bud! I just went out and checked 'em out. There were a couple "standard" Allen heads in the mix and I thought they were all standard. Just went out and found the metric ones you sent. They're now installed & snug. Thanks for lookin' out!

 

[Benwa]

Well, I'm waiting on a 272xp coil & all my "carb parts" to add the high jet. So, I guess this will be the last installment for a bit haha. The fuel cap o-ring leaked, so I took the opportunity to buy some flippy caps for it. I have these on my 359, 2159, & 372xp's. I really like them. I do even more so on this saw, since the "wells" where the caps sit down into are so deep. As with so much other Chinese made garbage, I can tell you from experience, with these flip caps OEM are the only way to go. I threw a new oem pig tail in it, with a fresh fuel filter for good measure.
Anyway, I should get to run it this week a short bit to get an idea of how it does stock. We'll see.

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

Well, I'm waiting on a 272xp coil & all my "carb parts" to add the high jet. So, I guess this will be the last installment for a bit haha. The fuel cap o-ring leaked, so I took the opportunity to buy some flippy caps for it. I have these on my 359, 2159, & 372xp's. I really like them. I do even more so on this saw, since the "wells" where the caps sit down into are so deep. As with so much other Chinese made garbage, I can tell you from experience, with these flip caps OEM are the only way to go. Anyway, I should get to run it this week a short bit to get an idea of how it does stock. We'll see.
View attachment 317094

Do the flippy caps allow more finger leverage on the cap Ben? I have a saw with a stubborn cap that this might be the answer to.

 

[Benwa]

Do the flippy caps allow more finger leverage on the cap Ben? I have a saw with a stubborn cap that this might be the answer to.

Exactly. They even have a slot in them, when they're flipped up, to use your scrench if one is being tricky. I find these have a different style "o-ring" and rarely if ever, get tight/stiff to unscrew. OEM anyway, aftermarket one suck in my opinion. Ebay usually has them the cheapest. $15-19 for the pair.

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

Exactly. They even have a slot in them, when they're flipped up, to use your scrench if one is being tricky. I find these have a different style "o-ring" and rarely if ever, get tight/stiff to unscrew. OEM anyway, aftermarket one suck in my opinion. Ebay usually has them the cheapest. $15-19 for the pair.
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Awesome, thank you. Think i'll grab half a dozen for my favourite saws. Do you have a p/n by any chance?

 

[Benwa]

@Kiwioilboiler The numbers have been superceded a couple times, but 522620001 or 52262003 either will work. They're exactly the same.

 

[Motorka]

And for the older saws with differets size caps, like 61 . Can you get OEM flippy caps?

 

[Benwa]

And for the older saws with differets size caps, like 61 . Can you get OEM flippy caps?

To my knowledge Husqvarna only makes one size flippy cap. The OEM flippy caps fit the large fuel cap on the 61 chassis but won't fit the smaller oil cap.