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lehman live edge slab

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Running 70 with blown flywheel, posted pictures just to see if anyone has a thought of value not 100% sure if selling or nor
 

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Jay Hansen

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The 80 was highly regarded as a powerful, tough saw. And, in my opinion, the 70e was the finest of the all metal Jonsereds. Judging by the amount of paint remaining on the rear handle, I don't think the running 70 has been used very much.
 

heimannm

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I ended up with an extra one of these:

View attachment 449259

Can anyone remind me which saw it came from? I want to put a part number on it so I can put it away and know where to look for it if I need one in the future.

Thanks,

Mark

I am still trying to figure out where this came from...

Mark
 

heimannm

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Thanks to Jay Hansen's generosity I was able to put the finishing touches on these two today.

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I did change out the bar nuts on this one to something more correct for that model.

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My Swedish area in the display is getting pretty full.

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Mark
 

heimannm

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The 521E fired right up on a prime but for now anyway I will not put fuel in the tank to see if the heated handle still work. I may have the High and Low windings reversed, but for now we won't know for sure.

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Mark
 

Jonsered2055

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Can anyone tell what year Jonsered released their first Product Catalogue? I am pretty sure some year in the 80s. Not talking about the brochures (many chainsaws, like 920 as an example, had their own brochures) but the thicker Jonsered Catalogues with all (mostly) Jonsered products represented.
 

old 040

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Can anyone tell what year Jonsered released their first Product Catalogue? I am pretty sure some year in the 80s. Not talking about the brochures (many chainsaws, like 920 as an example, had their own brochures) but the thicker Jonsered Catalogues with all (mostly) Jonsered products represented.

This link might help. Tilton Equipment Co was a distributor for Jonsereds early on, You might try reaching out to them and see if they can help.
 

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edju1958

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I had a heck of a time getting the clutch spider off the 49SP & in the process the woodruff key got pretty buggered up.I found one on feebay for a 52E,but have no idea if it'll fit the 49SP.The part # is 735801400.I've searched the web & have come up empty handed.Would anyone here have a woodruff key for the clutch spider they'd be willing to sell,or know the size of the key?I may be able to pick one up at the hardware store.
 

heimannm

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Compression is not bad.

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All cleaned up.

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Many little bits on these saws.

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Goin back together.

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This saw came to me missing the air filter duct, from IPL's I think the part numbers, 504 35 86-01 and 504 13 14-03but I can't find one shown anywhere to confirm.


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I'd also like to find a spike for it, I think it is 504 55 06 00.

Mark
 

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Compression is not bad.

View attachment 453088

All cleaned up.

View attachment 453089

Many little bits on these saws.

View attachment 453090

Goin back together.

View attachment 453091

This saw came to me missing the air filter duct, from IPL's I think the part numbers, 504 35 86-01 and 504 13 14-03but I can't find one shown anywhere to confirm.


View attachment 453092

I'd also like to find a spike for it, I think it is 504 55 06 00
Mark, PM me your mailer and I'll get a spike and duct with gasket out to you later this week,
 

lehman live edge slab

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Worked on a coworkers 2054, the kill switch was bad and had soldered wire connections on back for the long kill wires to coil. Wasn’t able to track the exact switch down but a Stihl weed whip rocker fits perfectly just need to solder a wire to spades put liquid electrical tape on connection bend the spades over part way for clearance and make your new wires and switch connect to the old kill wires at bottom of handle where there’s room for connectors.
 

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heimannm

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The stop switch on the 49SP was missing and those small switches are not easy to find. I ordered some miniature SPST switches through Amazon which have a much smaller threaded body.

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I had the remnants from the OEM switch and I was able to drill the metal body of that switch to accommodate the miniature switch. I would have liked to tap the I.D. for the miniature switch but I only have an M6x1 tap on hand and the threads on the mini are finer. I ended up using hot glue to couple the mini switch body to the base of the OEM switch. On the saw, it is hard to know the switch is not original.

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I did have to add a ground wire to the switch but there are plenty of places under the hood of the 49 to secure a wire.

Mark
 
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