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I want a roof over my mill

huskihl

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Like randy mentioned, a 16"x8" Doug fir beam would be dandy. I don't like the added weight of the whole log. It makes it minimally stronger, and the added weight only pulls down harder. 2x6 rafters don't last here without bowing or twisting so I'd use 2x8. 2x8 rafters span 12' on 2' centers all day. 2x4 purlins on 2' centers laid flat across the top of the 2x8's, and steel roofing.
 

exSW

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I'm pretty sure you can get a 24' LVL that will span that,make code and save a bunch of headroom in your door opening. Be the only spendy thing in the project.
 

exSW

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Over the years I built a lot of laminated beams. 2 x 10 then 3/4" plywood, glued, repeat.....

I think he wants to rip all the material himself through.

I get that. Where he is they probably make them. Might even find a second somewhere.
 

Al Smith

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In my house addition I have two lam beams 16" by 2" .glued and screwed together spanning 22 feet for an open room addition .It took six of us to lift those heavy things,one at a time to glue screw and clamp in place .I believe I could hang my pickup from that beam . .
 

paragonbuilder

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The first thing I would do is a little site work. Cut the ground down level and flat using a spot about 20' out and to the left of the front of the new building as a bench mark.

Then you would have quite a lot more height if I'm reading the ground correctly.

Then use beams for the whole structure. Shed roof style right off the overhang of the garage.

I agree with this. But even with site work it looks to me you will have minimal height.
You will be dropping 2' @ 2/12, plus like 6" rafter height on a 2x8, plus 16" beam. That's almost 4' down.
I'd want more head room.
I'd pick a clearance height, and shed it to where it lands on the roof. Add a support wall under the rafters sitting on the existing plates and run a 2x nailer across to land your rafters on.
When I'm framing a roof onto a beam, I slot the beam on the pitch angle for the rafters before putting it up instead of cutting birds mouths. It locks the rafters in better, and especially on old buildings when nothing is straight, you set your rafter up top while it lays in the slot. Check plumb and straight and nail it home.


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Mastermind

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I agree with this. But even with site work it looks to me you will have minimal height.
You will be dropping 2' @ 2/12, plus like 6" rafter height on a 2x8, plus 16" beam. That's almost 4' down.
I'd want more head room.
I'd pick a clearance height, and shed it to where it lands on the roof. Add a support wall under the rafters sitting on the existing plates and run a 2x nailer across to land your rafters on.
When I'm framing a roof onto a beam, I slot the beam on the pitch angle for the rafters before putting it up instead of cutting birds mouths. It locks the rafters in better, and especially on old buildings when nothing is straight, you set your rafter up top while it lays in the slot. Check plumb and straight and nail it home.


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Perfect.
 

paragonbuilder

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Here is how we notch the beam for the rafters. I started doing this on my log cabins because a birds mouth leaves a void, and it's to much time to scribe them all. And it works well.
This is the jig.
056d42a728badde6ffa08f7f4946b3fb.jpg
7a76b57a8931f0dbd3077f57d9f1d07f.jpg
42db5b4b62357fcb3f6bd36b885c6647.jpg



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paragonbuilder

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And I can't take all the credit. I've got two brilliant carpenters that work for me!


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junkman

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I like construction ,real rewarding to sit back and see what you have accomplished through the hard work .Learned a lot building my own home ,not enough to be a contractor though .
 

exSW

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That is slicker n snakeskin. I used to do the let in bracing on wet log walls like that. Never dawned on me to....
 
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