HUSQVARNA HUSQVARNA THREAD

[Al Smith]

I've got a 281 that as I recall doesn't pull over that bad .Certainly easier than a 2100 .I really don't know why I don't use it much, it's got plenty of power .

 

[fossil]

Can anyone tell me the correct starter cord thickness and length for my 281.
It has no decomp so im thinking 4 or 4.5mm thickness?

I don't have a 281 but the PN crosses to

Husqvarna 501 20 15-02 OEM Starter Rope 501201502
SKU
HVP 501 20 15 02
Husqvarna Starter Rope
Diameter: 4.2 mil (11/64 in)
Length: 975 mil (3 ft 2 25/64 in)

The info is from Bailey's so if that's a good source (should be) that's what you want.

 

[msellers]

Ok all, one of my 61s has been upgraded to a 162SE top end at some point in its life. I am curious if the windowed piston that was in it is correct. As I am mostly finding non windowed pistons listed as the replacement. I realize yhe windowed is lighter, but it is also leaving more crank space unfilled to force the mix up the transfers.

Please give me some advice before I go and do something foolish on this saw.
Mike

 

[justoldsaws]

4mm rope is pretty thick. 90cc saws use the 4mm.

Thanks to everyone who replied, i will replace with 4mm, my 281 has heaps of compression and i can see the cord is old and starting to frey, my plan is to replace before it lets me down.

 

[justoldsaws]

https://www.woodbusiness.ca/husqvarna-to-unveil-newest-generation-of-90cc-chainsaws-in-2021/

 

[FergusonTO35]

Little 440 got some exercise today. There are a few logs over 12" diameter under the small ones on top and she eats 'em up no problem.

 

[Sawrain]

Question for the husky professionals, regarding the 365/372 clutch side crank sleeve, how tight are they to remove normally?

This one seems fairly tight, I have not tried to force it hard yet, but I applied a little with no movement.

I would like to remove it and place it in after swapping out the shaft seal.



Thanks.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Shouldn't be difficult to remove. There is also a very thin 'O' ring under the flange between the sleeve and the bearing that will likely need to be replaced as well. 503 26 30-19 in the illustration. Also, the clutch needs to be in place to effectively pass a vac/pressure test.

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[huskyboy]

Sometimes there easy and sometimes not. The last one I had done was a real pain in the ass. I had no choice but to destroy it with a pair of vise grips and using a twisting/pulling motion. It didn’t matter that I ruined the old part because I was replacing it. I think when they are in there for a long time, sometimes they settle in real good.

 

[Sawrain]

Shouldn't be difficult to remove. There is also a very thin 'O' ring under the flange between the sleeve and the bearing that will likely need to be replaced as well. 503 26 30-19 in the illustration. Also, the clutch needs to be in place to effectively pass a vac/pressure test.

View attachment 264772​

Thanks, That O-ring was not on the IPL i was using, nor the dealers, until he tried a different year.

Saw it in the service manual though.

Sometimes there easy and sometimes not. The last one I had done was a real pain in the ass. I had no choice but to destroy it with a pair of vise grips and using a twisting/pulling motion. It didn’t matter that I ruined the old part because I was replacing it. I think when they are in there for a long time, sometimes they settle in real good.

Settled in good is a great description, didn’t want to move cold, I placed a large washer over the sleeve to protect the saw and gave it some heat, came off without too much trouble then, slides on and off super easy now.

Edit, this saw has steel caged main bearings, figured no point replacing as the big end will go first if the saws ever does big hours? I don’t know 365s normal failure modes.

Not that the saw will every actually do a lot of work.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Everyone *b-wordes about Stihl tools being such a rip-off. Husqvarna wants $150 for this. And that doesn't even include the puller -- just the plate. If you shop around you can find it for $139. Doesn't get much more absurd than this. And if you actually buy one?
Well....

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[PogoInTheWoods]

Free...

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[Willard]

Pics of the critter.

Not sure what it will go for but likely it will escape my threshold.

View attachment 260410 View attachment 260411

I loved my 395XP, ending up selling it as all I used it for was a 36" b/c stump saw for my stump grinder.
Best thing I did with it was running it on my 36" Alaskan chainsaw mill with .404 chisel bit chain. Real performer and smooth!

 

[Willard]

Here's a few pics in 40 below windchill getting timbers ready a few days before the saw competition . The 090 in the background didn't like the cool temps.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Can someone educate me on the crank stuffers? The ones out of the K760 I have torn down seem like junk after a bearing went south and the piston grenaded. Do they simply fit over the crank counterweights and ride between them and the case or are they supposed to be attached by a press fit? Both of these were completely loose and actually rubbing against the case with distinct wear marks on both the stuffers and the case halves. (You can see shrapnel in the one pictured.) I know they're required and likely more for determining case volume than crankshaft 'balancing' (which I've seen printed). They sure are cheap-ass pieces of stamped tin that seem more like disaster waiting to happen than anything else -- at $25 a pop no less. I know they're also used in other saws.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Bump...

The K760 stuffers are the same as the 576xp, etc. No one has any idea how they're supposed to fit the crank?

 

[tickbitintn]

Bump...

The K760 stuffers are the same as the 576xp, etc. No one has any idea how they're supposed to fit the crank?

I have a 576 carcass in the shed, I'll go look at it a little later...
I'm starving and it's pouring right now...

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

 

[tickbitintn]

The carcass I was thinking of I no longer have...
I have a 576 waiting for a top end, the stuffers on it are snug I can't really move them. Just flex them a little.
Cases are still assembled so I can't really get a good look at how they are attached.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Thanks for checking. Near as I can figure they just slide over the counterweights and are sandwiched between them and the inner bearing race. No actual fastening involved except maybe a slight friction fit initially. Both of the ones in question here just fell off the counterweights when the case was split. (The bearings stayed in the case halves.)

I guess I'm just wondering if I can re-use the same ones if I can pull the shrapnel out of the one and get the other one back closer to its original shape so it isn't rubbing the case. I know I can't eliminate them. But like I already said, even if they were new they look like a disaster waiting to happen by the very nature of their construction and design in the way the "counterbalance" material is fastened to the metal spacer itself. Not only that, they severely restrict lubrication to the bearings which seem to be a notorious failure point in the chop saws.

 

[tickbitintn]

I wonder if a little yamabond or dirko smeared in between the crank and stuffer would help keep it in place without any ill effects.

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