HUSQVARNA HUSQVARNA THREAD

[farminkarman]

No, and I wouldn’t waste any money on Hyway cylinders either. The plating inevitably flakes off.

 

[Woodwackr]

No, and I wouldn’t waste any money on Hyway cylinders either. The plating inevitably flakes off.

Stick with the Meteor kit?
Been to Neenah…sister in Oshkosh used to go to a church here

 

[farminkarman]

Stick with the Meteor kit?
Been to Neenah…sister in Oshkosh used to go to a church here

I wouldn’t do meteor either. Seems to be the same flaky plating as the Hyway jugs. If it were my money, I would do OEM or one of the Duke’s p&c kits. I suppose I ended up in the Neenah area because of Kimberly-Clark who is my employer. Not many folks have ever heard of it, and even less have been here.

 

[Woodwackr]

I wouldn’t do meteor either. Seems to be the same flaky plating as the Hyway jugs. If it were my money, I would do OEM or one of the Duke’s p&c kits. I suppose I ended up in the Neenah area because of Kimberly-Clark who is my employer. Not many folks have ever heard of it, and even less have been here.

Duke’s kit is about half the cost of Meteor or Hyway and untested. Why would you compare those with oe?
Just curious.
Oe for this saw ain’t happening unless I can find a good used cyl…which don’t seem to exist for sale.

 

[farminkarman]

Duke’s kit is about half the cost of Meteor or Hyway and untested. Why would you compare those with oe?
Just curious.
Oe for this saw ain’t happening unless I can find a good used cyl…which don’t seem to exist for sale.

I'm not comparing the Duke's with OEM. I just know that the other two options you asked about are garbage. I have a Duke's 390xp chrome plated cylinder that I machined & ported and have been running on my 2186. The port timing was slightly better than OEM right out of the box, ports looked great, and the plating didn't lift when I ported the jug. Will the chrome bore and iron rings last as long as a nikasil bore with chrome faced rings? Probably not, but if that is of concern I would be going with OEM.

 

[Woodwackr]

I'm not comparing the Duke's with OEM. I just know that the other two options you asked about are garbage. I have a Duke's 390xp chrome plated cylinder that I machined & ported and have been running on my 2186. The port timing was slightly better than OEM right out of the box, ports looked great, and the plating didn't lift when I ported the jug. Will the chrome bore and iron rings last as long as a nikasil bore with chrome faced rings? Probably not, but if that is of concern I would be going with OEM.

well, that's an opinion, thanks. Garbage? I think a lot of people from the last 20yrs would disagree. Perhaps the Italian and Taiwanese stuff doesn't hold up well to porting, creating the flaking issues? I have read some threads over the years discussing this as a possibility. While I would agree that going OE is the best route this isn't possible in this instance, hence the inquiry. I've had lousy luck with Duke's AM parts of late so am a bit gun-shy of them at the moment. I also haven't seen much of anything for reviews of their new 'hard chrome' cylinders including zip on their site.
Meteor has a consistently good track record on various forums that I check for info periodically with a few exceptions, like yours. Hyway has been hit/miss but I've never had issued with their stuff. Not trying to start a war here, just trying to get my friend's saw back in actions for a cost he can live with.

and...This looks like a comparison to me.
"I would do OEM or one of the Duke’s p&c kits"

 

[farminkarman]

well, that's an opinion, thanks. Garbage? I think a lot of people from the last 20yrs would disagree. Perhaps the Italian and Taiwanese stuff doesn't hold up well to porting, creating the flaking issues? I have read some threads over the years discussing this as a possibility. While I would agree that going OE is the best route this isn't possible in this instance, hence the inquiry. I've had lousy luck with Duke's AM parts of late so am a bit gun-shy of them at the moment. I also haven't seen much of anything for reviews of their new 'hard chrome' cylinders including zip on their site.
Meteor has a consistently good track record on various forums that I check for info periodically with a few exceptions, like yours. Hyway has been hit/miss but I've never had issued with their stuff. Not trying to start a war here, just trying to get my friend's saw back in actions for a cost he can live with.

and...This looks like a comparison to me.
"I would do OEM or one of the Duke’s p&c kits"

Yep, it is an opinion...one that I paid quite a bit of my own money to form. I have have had four failures in four cylinders. Two Hyway and two Meteor. I'll admit that one of each was plating lifting from trying to port the cylinder. The other two were short lived and were run right out of the box. The 372 big bore hyway jug didn't make it to 20 tanks before the plating peeled off above the exhaust port. The Meteor 357xp/359 cylinder failed the same way after about two tanks. I have yet to have a failure from a Farmertec or Duke's cylinder....not saying they are OEM quality, because they are not. But they seem to work well enough to make a saw run and cut wood for a budget build. I think people get mixed up thinking that because meteor makes good pistons that they must also make good cylinders. Perhaps there are other folks who have had the exact opposite experience. At the end of the day, I am trying to provide some caution and don't want to see you run into the same trouble I did.

 

[Woodwackr]

I've been trying to get info on the two Duke's kits...'hard chrome' and 'Nikasil. there is a $10 difference. on their site the pics for each kit are exactly the same and it appears that there is no bevel at all on the ports so those would need to be cleaned up. Have you used any of these? All I've seen so far is a couple comments and 1 review of their 2100 cylinder. I tried calling them...nobody home...tried chat...nobody home. They don't seem to have an email inquiry option.

 

[farminkarman]

I've been trying to get info on the two Duke's kits...'hard chrome' and 'Nikasil. there is a $10 difference. on their site the pics for each kit are exactly the same and it appears that there is no bevel at all on the ports so those would need to be cleaned up. Have you used any of these? All I've seen so far is a couple comments and 1 review of their 2100 cylinder. I tried calling them...nobody home...tried chat...nobody home. They don't seem to

@Duke Thieroff is your contact. Shoot him a message. I have one of the chrome 390xp cylinders. The cylinder looked really good out of the box.

 

[Woodwackr]

@Duke Thieroff is your contact. Shoot him a message. I have one of the chrome 390xp cylinders. The cylinder looked really good out of the box.

Does the beveling look like their site pics or better?

 

[farminkarman]

Does the beveling look like their site pics or better?

The one I got had adequate bevels. The one in the picture almost looks like it doesn’t have any.

 

[Woodwackr]

The one I got had adequate bevels. The one in the picture almost looks like it doesn’t have any.

I sent the boss a pm…and pointed that out

 

[Squareground3691]

266’s , with extra sauce.

 

[farminkarman]

Well, hoping to get some ideas from you guys. I have a 562xp that came back to me with failed crank bearings about a month after I sold it with a fresh rebuild. The coil also got damaged by the flywheel, so I had to find a used replacement. I finally got around to transferring the saw over to a brand new short block. The part number on the replacement coil was similar to the original, so I thought it might not need to be programmed, but now I'm not sure. The saw starts up on high idle and runs great on the high end/WOT while cutting. The saw will not come down to an idle...just dies like the low jet is at max fuel. At this point do I just need to take it in and have the coil reprogrammed?

 

[jacob j.]

Well, hoping to get some ideas from you guys. I have a 562xp that came back to me with failed crank bearings about a month after I sold it with a fresh rebuild. The coil also got damaged by the flywheel, so I had to find a used replacement. I finally got around to transferring the saw over to a brand new short block. The part number on the replacement coil was similar to the original, so I thought it might not need to be programmed, but now I'm not sure. The saw starts up on high idle and runs great on the high end/WOT while cutting. The saw will not come down to an idle...just dies like the low jet is at max fuel. At this point do I just need to take it in and have the coil reprogrammed?

What vintage is this 562? I have some parts but they're for older units.

 

[farminkarman]

What vintage is this 562? I have some parts but they're for older units.

It is a 2014 and it has an EL48 carb. I should add that since the saw failed, I have replaced the purge line and the fuel line & filter. Also put a kit in the carb and upgraded the saw to the new style air filter.

 

[jacob j.]

It is a 2014 and it has an EL48 carb. I should add that since the saw failed, I have replaced the purge line and the fuel line & filter. Also put a kit in the carb and upgraded the saw to the new style air filter.

Ok - I got some parts for that vintage - I've got an El-48 carb and I'll see if I can find a matching coil.

 

[farminkarman]

Ok - I got some parts for that vintage - I've got an El-48 carb and I'll see if I can find a matching coil.

I’m not sure there is anything wrong with the carb & coil…could be I suppose. It would be all be good if the AT could lean out the low circuit. I’m sure it was at max fuel based on the seals or lack thereof when it had last run. It seems like the AT already cleaned up the high circuit….just pig rich on the low side.

 

[Woodwackr]

390 back in action.
Fully stripped down, new bearings, etc
Duke's p&c kit, casting boogers cleaned up, exhaust port opened up and polished, muffler port-matched and 2nd port added.
Found a puncture in the tank upon fuel-up...fixed. runs great. Wrap handle took quite a bit of tweeking to fit.
Just over $250 in pts. Not too bad for a run over.

 

[farminkarman]

390 back in action.
Fully stripped down, new bearings, etc
Duke's p&c kit, casting boogers cleaned up, exhaust port opened up and polished, muffler port-matched and 2nd port added.
Found a puncture in the tank upon fuel-up...fixed. runs great. Wrap handle took quite a bit of tweeking to fit.
Just over $250 in pts. Not too bad for a run over.View attachment 431947View attachment 431948
View attachment 431945View attachment 431946

Glad to see it is ready for killing trees again.