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Husqvarna 55 rebuild

nnero

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Thanks. I'm getting a little more excited about things. This is my first Husqvarna. I basically wanted something to replace my ms260. My biggest problem with this saw so far is plastic clutch cover and crank driven oil pump. Should have some real updates next week.
 

nnero

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Found out something else tonight. The tip of the low jet is broken off. Don't know how I missed it. One more thing to do lol
 

nnero

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Yeah, Im not too worried about it. I may just get a new carb, this one was pretty nasty. It cleaned up ok but there is some pitting.
 

nnero

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I have the Zama carb. Is the walbro (or AM clone) interchangeable or do I have to stick with the Zama. The tip of the needle is broken off inside the carb. I may be able to get it out if I remove a welch plug. Ill prob mess with anyways.
 

dougand3

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You can use the Walbro or AM carb. Your Zama sounds doomed. Needle seat is probably trashed.
 

nnero

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Got the new carb and it runs. Hard to get idle adjusted without bar and chain which will be here tomorrow. There is a little bit of stuff coming out the little hole in the decomp. Is this normal? Also it just seems really quiet, like almost no exhaust note.It idles and revs consistently with no surging. Something about it just sounds off to me...maybe it's just me lol
 

dougand3

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There shouldn't be fluid or air coming of decomp hole, except maybe 2 secs after starting until plunger slams shut. Unbolt valve and push plunger out and see if any trash is preventing seal. Spray with carb cleaner. If it looks fine, I'd get another one. Ebay has 4 for $8 normally.
 

nnero

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Hmmm ok, its a new decomp but I will double check it. I may just plug it. I really wish I could do a pressure test. Im just paranoid that something is wrong.
 

smokey7

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I'd likely just plug it and muffler mod it. It is very nice to have a stock Muffler nice and quiet some days
 

dougand3

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Recently, I rebuilt a 55 w/o decomp. 200 PSI and broke a recoil starting it. I drilled/tapped a decomp valve in. My shoulder demanded it! If young and strong = no decomp. If old and geezery = decomp.
 

dougand3

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Check that squish isn't too tight. IIRC, mine was .018" Use a thin layer of Permatex Motoseal (or Yamabond or Hondabond or similar) instead of gasket. Lots of reading here on it. Search checking squish; base gasket delete.
 

nnero

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Got the bar and chain; it looks nice. Box says made in Australia so I hope thats actually the case. I hope to run a tank or so through it this weekend to work out or find any kinks
 

nnero

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Maybe im being stupid but I cant seem to a general how to check squish thread. I tried searching. Even if its redundant could someone explain it too me? Is there a need to remove any piston material if removing base gasket? Sorry but this is a step above what Ive done before lol
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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1: Take out the spark plug
2: Take a piece of solder, about 6 inches long and bend the last inch 90 deg.
3: With the piston at just after BDC, insert the short 90 deg end of the solder into the sparkplug hole and orient so it is touching the cylinder wall, and in line with and on the same axis as the wrist pin.
4: Roll the engine over in the normal direction of rotation, turn the flywheel with your hand. Be careful as it may turn a bit stubborn because you are using the solder to show you the clearance between the piston crown and squish band in the combustion chamber by flattening it between the two. Cycle it two times or more to ensure complete compression if the solder.
5: Pull the solder out and measure the thickness of the solder at the very end that got flattened out. This is your squish clearance measurement.

Note: If you want to be even more accurate, remove the cylinder, exposing the piston.

1: Cut 4 small pieces of solder, about 1/2 to 3/4 inch long.
2: Using a dab of grease, stick all four pieces to the top of the piston with one end as near the edge of the piston crown as possible while allowing for installation of the cylinder. If the piston crown as viewed from above from the operators perspective were a clock face, position them at 12:00, 3:00, 6:00, and 9:00
3: Make sure crankshaft is positioned after BDC but well before TDC in normal direction of engine rotation.
4: Install and bolt down cylinder
5: Perform step #4 above
6: Remove cylinder and measure all four pieces of solder.

Tip, use small gauge solder for this. It will compress much easier and give you more accurate results.
 
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