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Husqvarna 55 rebuild

RIDE-RED 350r

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Yes, I made a reply and then re-read your post a second time and realized what you were getting at. I edited my reply in the meantime while you were posting.
 

nnero

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Haha OK I see now. Thanks! I will put it back together without gasket and try again. I have the permetex black gasket/sealer. It's no hardening and oil and gas resistant. This should be fine?
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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As far as sealant, most prefer Threebond, Motoseal, and/or a couple others. I would think what you have should work though.

You shouldn't need thicker solder unless the squish clearance is wide enough to need it. If you measured squish to be .050" with .062" solder you should be fine there.
 

Boo Boudreaux

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It's a hyway closed port cylinder and windowed piston. I don't have a compression gauge at the moment, mine crapped out. Compression feels good which means nothing but you really gotta yank it without using the valve. I'm gonna plug the decomp hole and check everything over before I try again
I thought you mentioned at the start of the thread you ordered a closed port top end kit ??
 

BGE541

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I have an open port 51 and I really like it, if you can get a piston try running to OEM top end I feel like, in most cases, they are stronger runners.
 

nnero

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I put it back together without base gasket last night. Ill try it today and test compression. I got a cheapo am carb and Im wondering if that may be causing an issue. I have a 262xp project next but I may end up getting a meteor piston for the oem open port. Idk yet haha
 

nnero

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I checked compression yesterday with my old gauge and it was 120! Have a new one coming today and Ill recheck. If the compression is truly that low it would explain my performance issues and the saw sounding not quite right. @GoBigBlue1984 has offered to "fix" my am jug if need be and I will most likely be sending it to him. I do have an oem carb coming from him as well. There are som many great people on this forum! The only other explanation is that Ive done something horribly wrong while putting this saw back together.

 

BGE541

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I think compression checking has quite a few variables and can be misleading in some ways but let us know how it runs for ya!!!
 

dougand3

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I think compression checking has quite a few variables and can be misleading in some ways but let us know how it runs for ya!!!
So true. I have a Harbor Freight $15 gauge. One of my 55s ran great but showed 85 PSI. WTH??? Got a $50 Actron gauge - Same saw read 170 PSI. The HF gauge read exactly half of the Actron on 5 different saws. The HF gauge does work on 2 liter car engines.
 

BGE541

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So true. I have a Harbor Freight $15 gauge. One of my 55s ran great but showed 85 PSI. WTH??? Got a $50 Actron gauge - Same saw read 170 PSI. The HF gauge read exactly half of the Actron on 5 different saws. The HF gauge does work on 2 liter car engines.

Some that have the nozzle or valve at the end can be very finicky on compression. I bought a set off eBay for like $30 in a red case that's worked well but honestly don't use it much.
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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Well Nnero, I think that given your wide squish clearance it's quite possible your compression is in fact low.

I don't think you screwed anything up in your rebuild process. You say it runs, but runs kind of poorly and seems down on power. Low compression will do exactly that.
 

Magic_Man

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These Hyway closed port top end kits have Very loose squish. I just mocked mine up without a gasket and got .055". That coupled with less than top notch piston rings could very well give you low compression.
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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I'm interested to see what you get for a compression reading using another tester.... I'm betting it still comes in low. I wish I could remember what my brother's 55 Closed Port squish clearance came in at after we deleted the base gasket. That info might prove useful here.
 

Simondo

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I will measure it with new gauge. Wonder if a new caber ring would make a difference?
They are my default ring to use.. unless its OEM parts and even then Caber very often is what you get.
 
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