Husqvarna 350 to 346

[jmester]

Got the intake set up on the cylinder with the updated partition wall and clamp. The updated partition wall and clamp part # 537251302

 

[jmester]

Got a brand new zama c3-EL18. Glad I checked the metering lever height and trimmed the limiter caps on the high and low speed. Plus checked and set the basic carb setting of 1 turn out on both H and L from lightly seated.

 

[jmester]

Went ahead and mounted the carb to the intake so I can get the cylinder on and get the saw sealed up. I always put oil on the intake were the carb meets the rubber. Just to help it seal not sure if it make any difference just something I do.

 

[jmester]

Forgot to mention that I torqued the carb mounting bolts to 1.5nm. 1.10 ft lbs. Hope to get the piston and cylinder mounted tomorrow. My buddy is going to send me his nut sert tool so I can do a dual port muffler mod.

 

[jmester]

~$65.00 for a 455/460 clutch cover, worth it.

That's not to bad of a price considering that you are getting the cover and adjuster all in one unit. The stock adjuster is pretty expensive if I remember right.

 

[jmester]

Got the piston and cylinder mounted. The base gasket is directional the little tab goes to the intake side protruding on the flywheel side. Also this is a great time to lube your main bearings and big end rod bearing.


Had to install both cir clips in the piston. I always put the clips in the pto side first as they are difficult to get in because of the crankcase. I also make sure my clips are either at the 12 o'clock or 6 o'clock position.

 

[jmester]

Next I installed the piston to the crankshaft. Make sure you lube the pin bearing and the pin bosses on the piston. Don't forget your cir clip on the flywheel side. I lube the piston and ring, i also line up the ring ends with the locating pin in the piston. Also make sure the arrow on top of the piston points towards the exhaust.


Lube the bore of the cylinder. I don't skimp on the oil. I would rather it smoke like a train then start up dry.

Then installed the cylinder and snugged up the cylinder bolts. Then I got the plastic pins in the rubber buffers on the carb. I wanted to make sure it was not holding the cylinder on a bind. I torqued the cylinder screws to 10nm or 7.37 ftlbs. I tighten them in an x pattern.

 

[old guy]

I prefer to bolt the carb on after the cyl. is bolted down, it's one less thing to deal with when putting the cyl in place. Do you have a set of those red plastic ring compressors?, they make the job easyer.

 

[usmcbuckwild]

If you are doing a Base Gasket Delete and utilizing Dirko, 518 or 1184 pre oiling the cylinder is a no-go, at least in my experience.

I add a dab of oil to all the bearings but leave the cylinder dry so as not to contaminate the sealant. I attached the intake tract and carb as its pretty tight in there. Once the cyl is bolted down I let it set up for 12-24 hours. After it is set up and saw is assembled i add some oil through the spark plug hole prior to starting.

Just my $0.02

 

[jmester]

I have done them both ways carb installed and carb off. I agree that with the carb not installed is easy. Just because there is more room for your hands. I have the set of red ring compressors from Husqvarna. I really like the one from Stihl as they are translucent and you can make sure the ring ends are located properly. But it is to big for the little 346 piston.

I am not the familiar with using 518/dirko/1184 as a base gasket. I have used many other materials to make a thin gasket. So I would not have to clean up all that stuff if I had to take it apart again. I would make sure you roll the engine over so you lube up and down the cylinder walls. Just my .02 cents

 

[jmester]

Got some more done got the fuel tank mounted. Also wanted to mention to not forget about the movement limiters on the fly and pto sides on the case near the fuel tank. Also I torqued the av screws to 3nm the SM say 2 to 3 nm (1.47 to 2.21 ftlbs )

 

[jmester]

Also wanted to show the angle that husky cuts the fuel line for some that may use bulk hose. The angle they cut it works real nice for getting it into the tank. I also use a little oil to help it along.

 

[jmester]

Once I had the tank on I could finish up the stuff on the carb. Installing fuel line and throttle rod, also the ground and short circuit wires.

 

[jmester]

Then to the flywheel and Ignition module. Torqued the flywheel to 27nm or 19.91ftlbs. SM says 25-30 nm (18.43-22.12 ftlbs) . Module to 4.5-6nm (2.95-4.42ftlbs) . Set the flywheel gap to 0.3mm

 

[jmester]

Messed up and order 2 fuel caps. So I don't have an oil cap. Don't no what i was thinking at the time I ordered it but boy that was dumb. Will get over to the clutch and oil pump another day.

 

[usmcbuckwild]

Messed up and order 2 fuel caps. So I don't have an oil cap. Don't no what i was thinking at the time I ordered it but boy that was dumb. Will get over to the clutch and oil pump another day.

Been there, done that, got the lump on my forehead from smacking myself saying “Doh!”

 

[jmester]

This was not the first time and I would say it won't be the last.

 

[jmester]

Got over to the oil pump and clutch. I always prime the oil pump regardless if it a new or used pump. I also spread grease on the control bolt and pump shaft. Also grease the spur gears on the chain adjuster.

 

[jmester]

Then on to the pump cover. I use clear silicone in the groove that the cover sits in. Not sure if it is necessary put husky did it so there must be something to it. I also grease the threads on the pinion/worm gear. Torqued the pump and cover bolt to 2.5 nm or 1.84 ftlbs

 

[jmester]

Then on to the clutch drum and drive sprocket bearing. I used a rim sprocket setup from a 346. The splines on the drum don't fit snug in the oil pump pinion/worm gear. But it works real nice. Have the same setup on my other 350/346. I torqued the clutch to 15 ftlbs.