That small of a leak won’t be noticeable in how the saw runs in my experience. I’ve never actually timed it to see how quickly pressure or vacuum falls off. Usually the needle either stays or it doesn’t. Most leaks that are bad enough to make the saw run poorly won’t hold 5 pounds of vacuum or pressure for more than 10 seconds or so.
In that case, what are your thoughts on the saw's wandering idle?
I’ve actually never worked on a 2100, so I’m not that familiar with the model. But in every other 2 series with an issue, for me it’s almost always the gaskets between the carburetor, block, and cylinder
You've never worked on a 2100!? Well damn, I'm stunned. Anyhow, the block to cylinder joint was tested, so the carb to block joint is the only possible leak left, I guess. I'll keep poking at stuff and update y'all if I find anything.
I didn’t go back and read through the thread again so I may have missed it, but I can almost guarantee that if you reuse the gaskets and don’t get them in the same orientation as they were originally, it won’t seal. It’s probably obvious on the cylinder side which way the impulse hole needs to line up, but the carburetor gasket can usually be flipped if it has an impulse hole on each side.
I’m sure I will one day. It will be my first in the WORLD
Wanna work on this one?
Sure, once you get that idle issue squared away LOLWanna work on this one?
I see eBay and Amazon have a Chinese Tillotson HS136. Complete carbs for about $15......or you could just send me the piston and cylinder instead
The block was included in the test, it checked out as ok.
It starts acting screwy within a minute or so.
Tank vent could be possible, although post-carb work it has gotten way worse, I'll have to twist the crank while I'm testing it later and I think this ignition is ok because it'll fire right up immediately after it dies (read: while it's still "hot").
