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Husqvarna 2100 idle woes

Fruecrue

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Does your carb have a governor?
I’ve had one give me trouble in the past. Would sometimes idle wonky or flood out after a good rev or out of the cut. Deleting it solved my issues.
 

Woodslasher

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Does your carb have a governor?
I’ve had one give me trouble in the past. Would sometimes idle wonky or flood out after a good rev or out of the cut. Deleting it solved my issues.
Yes it does. Would deleting it solve the losing pressure issue too do you think?
 

Fruecrue

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Yes it does. Would deleting it solve the losing pressure issue too do you think?
I can’t say for sure, but it is a path of fuel flow.
There’s been a thread or two in the past on how to do it if you’re not familiar.
 

Stump Shot

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I think it was @huskihl or @Stump Shot who found surface imperfections in carbs by pressure testing in water and saved them.

If the cover or carb body is warped there will be spots where the gasket doesn't seal and fuel can short circuit.
 

Woodslasher

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If the cover or carb body is warped there will be spots where the gasket doesn't seal and fuel can short circuit.
Well, a long time later I fixed it. After lapping the pump surface with only minor benefits, I pulled the cover off of a spare HS I had and it was warped less enough that the carb only loses ~1.5 psi every half-hour/45 minutes. If that's still too much, I'll explore the linked thread.
 

Stump Shot

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Well, a long time later I fixed it. After lapping the pump surface with only minor benefits, I pulled the cover off of a spare HS I had and it was warped less enough that the carb only loses ~1.5 psi every half-hour/45 minutes. If that's still too much, I'll explore the linked thread.

That is considered "in spec" and may go away all together over time as/if the gasket swells.
 

Woodslasher

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Well, the Walbro WT on a 235RII trimmer I was working on tried pulling the same crap. I lapped the surface and boom! It held pressure pretty well, but it leaked a little right above the impulse port. A thin layer of red rtv solved that and now it'll hold pressure for days (I assume).
 

Woodslasher

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Well, the Walbro WT on a 235RII trimmer I was working on tried pulling the same crap. I lapped the surface and boom! It held pressure pretty well, but it leaked a little right above the impulse port. A thin layer of red rtv solved that and now it'll hold pressure for days (I assume).
Spoke too soon. The friggin' trimmer kept acting way too lean, when I pulled the carb and re-tested it the check valve/nozzle isn't holding pressure in the slightest. Is this a "clean it" problem or do I need a new valve/carb?
 

Woodslasher

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Did you sort out the 2100?
Maybe.... One of the muffler bolt holes was stripped so no pressure/vacuum test until the helicoil kit showed up a few days ago. Unfortunately, I haven't had time to install the helicoil as I've been too busy doing bodywork on my brother's truck. As the carb now holds pressure I'm assuming it's fixed, but I haven't been able to run the saw and confirm it.
 

jacob j.

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Spoke too soon. The friggin' trimmer kept acting way too lean, when I pulled the carb and re-tested it the check valve/nozzle isn't holding pressure in the slightest. Is this a "clean it" problem or do I need a new valve/carb?

Yeah I would say if the main nozzle is leaking, it's time to replace the nozzle or get a new carb.
 

M2theB

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I got a 2100 for a deal as it wouldn’t start at all.

Replaced the seals with 288xp seals. if it’s never been done, it may be worth just doing it while waiting for the helicoil
New seals was the fix
 

Woodslasher

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Helicoil's been installed, saw was re-assembled, and now the low end tune wanders more than a city driver on a backwoods road. I'm gonna p/v test the saw to confirm it but I'm suspecting one or both crank seals are bad.
 
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