Huskyboy meets the 572xp

[Junk Meister]

Walnuts seem to grow straight without much of a taper.

You learn to bore cut or go broke when you cut walnut. The better the log the easier it will split and not just when dropping (Felling) but also how it lands. A limb can split down the log as well as a bad cut can pull fiber or split the butt. You have the clutch side when you are running the saw nearly straight up and down bore cutting the tap roots (Challenging for a short logger running a 28" bar) and the clutch cover with a half wrap rubs on the log a lot of the time. I saw a stump shot (pic) of a walnut stump posted by ?DUB11? and that is a good example of a better than average tree worth the extra effort for the extra MONEY. I would say I seldom see a grade walnut cut around here any other way unless a know nothing gets a hold of a saw. AND YEAH that CHITT happens too.

 

[andyshine77]

I wouldn't mind a full wrap for yard work or firewood but a common phrase I read on this site is "BORE CUTTING". I seldom read about the rest of the procedure of cutting the tap roots and controlling the direction of fall by which tap root you cut last. That is when the full wrap is "ALWAYS" in my way. I have trees that you dig around the base for the extra footage/MONEY. (Backhoe once on a walnut that was a veneer and got tired of digging after 2 or 3 feet)... ended up with an extra 7 foot of veneer and log was a 20" at 17 ft. Farmer had pushed in a draw around the tree, Had to use the bar nose straight up and down to "Tip cut the tap roots, Dad wasn't monkey enough so you know who got to cut it. We used a trench for getting away when it fell and had the hoe over the trench for some safety. Was a hot smokey job down in that hole. Back in the days of the 051 AV we used outboard motor oil. Made for a miserable job, even when yer young and fit. Johnny Bowen (Landowner/Farmer) said he would never complain that we didn't cut the stump low enough

It would be nice to see some of your work/stumps. I just find it funny how some would never use a saw without a wrap, and others the opposite. I would guess train has something to do with it as well, because from my limited experience using a half wrap on a hilly terrain is more difficult than with a full wrap.

Is getting that little bit extra really worth the extra fiddling at the stump? Understand I'm no logger in any way, I'm simply curious.[emoji111]

 

[huskyboy]

It would be nice to see some of your work/stumps. I just find it funny how some would never use a saw without a wrap, and others the opposite. I would guess train has something to do with it as well, because from my limited experience using a half wrap on a hilly terrain is more difficult than with a full wrap.

Is getting that little bit extra really worth the extra fiddling at the stump? Understand I'm no logger in any way, I'm simply curious.[emoji111]

On the big hills out west they need wraps, because they can’t always cut from one side of the stump due to terrain or whatever. We don’t really have that problem here and the little extra you get at the stump is important on a high dollar hardwood tree. Not every tree is cut super low, but low enough the skidder/forwarder driver doesn’t *b-word about it.

 

[Cat 525]

Like Deets and others shared the wrong cut in walnut can be in the hundreds of dollars on a grade walnut! An inch or two can sometimes can make a huge difference in price!

 

[HYPERSAWS]

What is the price per 1000 on one them grade a walnuts?

 

[Skeans1]

On the big hills out west they need wraps, because they can’t always cut from one side of the stump. We don’t really have that problem here and the little extra you get at the stump is important on a high dollar hardwood tree. Not every tree is cut super low, but low enough the skidder driver doesn’t *b-word about it.

Some of the ground out here has a height limit on the back cut of a foot or less which can make it interesting with the swell some of the stuff gets out here. One of the old guys I spent some time with if we weren’t hitting dirt with the face and the wrap wasn’t almost touching the ground we weren’t low enough, the back cut was done with a step that we’d snip after all was done. Different types of cutting for different areas there’s times and places for this, then there’s time a higher stump will be safer for the task at hand plus what’s coming next.

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[Cat 525]

What is the price per 1000 on one them grade a walnuts?

. Alot varies on location and such but $6-12 bucks. I am further from the markets and the quality improves as you go north and east of here. And the markets fluctuate like everything else!

 

[Skeans1]

. Alot varies on location and such but $6-12 bucks. I am further from the markets and the quality improves as you go north and east of here. And the markets fluctuate like everything else!

Sounds like Doug Fir domestic prices.


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[CLEARCUT]

It’s a little hard to get on both sides of the tree here on some ground, particularly when side-hilling the timber. But I totally understand why you might not want a wrap handle over there.

 

[RI Chevy]

You guys wear a rope just in case?

 

[CLEARCUT]

You guys wear a rope just in case?

In some situations, yes. But not anywhere where that picture was. A rope can definitely make a guy feel better at the least, and sometimes it’s necessary.

 

[Deets066]

Is getting that little bit extra really worth the extra fiddling at the stump? Understand I'm no logger in any way, I'm simply curious.[emoji111]

Most definitely, $60-$100 per tree. 40-50 trees a site.... depending on job. But that was roughly the norm

 

[Skeans1]

Most definitely, $60-$100 per tree. 40-50 trees a site.... depending on job. But that was roughly the norm

So 600-1000 per thousand for top grade grade walnut right?


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[LOMartin]

View attachment 197579 It’s a little hard to get on both sides of the tree here on some ground, particularly when side-hilling the timber. But I totally understand why you might not want a wrap handle over there.

damn. That’s steep. The stuff you pros get into it’s crazy.

 

[flying pig]

Some of the ground out here has a height limit on the back cut of a foot or less which can make it interesting with the swell some of the stuff gets out here. One of the old guys I spent some time with if we weren’t hitting dirt with the face and the wrap wasn’t almost touching the ground we weren’t low enough, the back cut was done with a step that we’d snip after all was done. Different types of cutting for different areas there’s times and places for this, then there’s time a higher stump will be safer for the task at hand plus what’s coming next.

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Agree with that 100%. I only usually get 3x10s and 3x12s out of the butt log and only out of maybe the top 10% of our trees. Most of my stumps are about the height of the one you showed. If it’s junk or suspect or has any kind of cat’s eye, fungus of any kind etc it gets a humbolt at waste height. I can run a lot faster standing upright, from kneeling or squating I’m pretty slow ha ha.

 

[Cat 525]

Top veneer grade is $6000 - 12000 per thousand. But not nearly all trees are that quality!

So 600-1000 per thousand for top grade grade walnut right?


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[Skeans1]

Top veneer grade is $6000 - 12000 per thousand. But not nearly all trees are that quality!

What typical size and board footage you guys see?


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[Cat 525]

I tried to stay 18" and up.like to be 200ft or more. Depends what the landowners are wanting to do. Some cut smaller but I lean away from that if possible.

 

[Junk Meister]

It would be nice to see some of your work/stumps. I just find it funny how some would never use a saw without a wrap, and others the opposite. I would guess train has something to do with it as well, because from my limited experience using a half wrap on a hilly terrain is more difficult than with a full wrap.

Is getting that little bit extra really worth the extra fiddling at the stump? Understand I'm no logger in any way, I'm simply curious.

I can type the words but I doubt I will ever be able to post a picture (computers/cameras and me are not a good combination) and I have cut very little hardwoods for grade for 10 or 12 years. The timber isn't as it used to be ,,,, You have a big percentage of jobs you can't get to if a crop is in the way and the land owner can get testy if you start mudding it out or the log buyer will give you the eye if the log is all muddy. Like maybe you are hiding a defect or the end market raises a stink .some don't like the bark all scuffed up and so it goes.. As in most any business you need to know the pros and cons of your trade. Some loggers on the Missouri bottoms cut cottonwood waist high some think they are to lazy to bend over but the sand is so bad in the lower trunk it plays hobbs on a chain. and footage is their paycheck Landowner is selling the logger is buying and then sometimes you have the slashand tops to squabble about.

 

[Skeans1]

I tried to stay 18" and up.like to be 200ft or more. Depends what the landowners are wanting to do. Some cut smaller but I lean away from that if possible.

Are you guys using Scribner?


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