Husky 372xp tips and tricks - my first husky rebuild

[Tor R]

You never needed to split the case anyway to exchange the valve, but its not easy.

Here is what I would do:
Turn the saw so chainside is down, use air pistol and blast around the opening to the valve, you should be able to see the oil bubbles through the oil refil hole. There should be no oil going out the other way.

If you though have to exchange an oil valve later, if you study link I provide earlier you can see that the valve has 3 different dimensions, but the crankcase doesnt have 3 dimensions, only 2 on my 346. The dimension in crankcase is around 6.5mm, and it goes 15mm deep, but the valve itself has only 7.5mm lenght that has 6.5mm.
So in general it should be possible to drill with an 6mm around 10mm deep, there should be little resistance left and should be easy to knock out the valve through the oil plug hole.

Dont know if all this make sense though lol

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

I would certainly change the rubber hose first, cheap and easy.

To be completely honest here, I was not sure either way if the vent valve is a one-way valve or not. Initially I would think it would allow flow both directions due to the possibility of positive pressure in the oil tank due to heat. I was thinking it had one of those "stone" filters inside it that would allow flow both directions but keep the oil in the tank.

But anyway, I think you are on the right track with swapping out the supply hose. They can harden and deform with age causing them not to make a good seal with the pump.

 

[panteliss]

I like the video but try to dont use the screws for close the cases , its a big risk to stripped one or more of them

 

[Mattyo]

I'm not sure what you mean are you referring to a different video I'm not sure what you mean by close the cases

 

[Mattyo]

Do you mean bring the case halves together

 

[Mattyo]

If so then I see your point but I have never had an issue stripping screws out bringing case halves together in fact those screws are probably the least likely in the entire chassis to get stripped out

 

[panteliss]

If so then I see your point but I have never had an issue stripping screws out bringing case halves together in fact those screws are probably the least likely in the entire chassis to get stripped out

You striped the threads to the crankcase this is what i mean

 

[panteliss]

look to this video and see the tool that he use for close the halfs , its a very cheap tool fit to many husqvarnas and help to avoid a lot of problems

 

[Tor R]

I like the video but try to dont use the screws for close the cases , its a big risk to stripped one or more of them

it's Huskies we are working with, it would be an issue if it was an Stihl....
Personally I heat the halfs to 200 deg celsius, in with bearing, wait, slide the crank in, then next half same way, never needed to use any screw to screw the two halfs together. I do have service tool for it also though, Huskies service tool for crank is cheap, around 40$

 

[panteliss]

it's Huskies we are working with, it would be an issue if it was an Stihl....
Personally I heat the halfs to 200 deg celsius, in with bearing, wait, slide the crank in, then next half same way, never needed to use any screw to screw the two halfs together. I do have service tool for it also though, Huskies service tool for crank is cheap, around 40$

No matter if its stihl husky dolmar or other , the point here is to avoid damages to the crankcases and for sure using the screws for close it its not the very best method

 

[Motorhead]

Heat and a light touch,Is what I use on crank case halves.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Using heat and cold to aid in assembly of a crank case helps IMMENSELY.

I have a 10 ton press at my work I use. I heat the cases and install the bearings. Usually the bearings will slip right in without needing to use the press. Then I take the crankshaft that I left in the freezer at least overnight and assemble the bottom end. This usually requires the use of the press, but it doesn't take alot of force. I get my press rigged up with the right size sockets for pushing on the inner bearing races and with the crank good and cold they slide right on nice with the press. Just like butter, no creaking, popping, or any other signs that it's going together hard. I've gotten better at this process since the first saw I overhauled.

I suppose in the absence of a press, one could freeze the crank as I do and use appropriately sized sockets that would push on the inner bearing races and carefully tap the case halves together using a deadblow hammer in a pinch.

I agree though, using the case bolts to pull the halves together can be risky. But again, using heat and cold to help I'm sure it can be done with much lower risk. I prefer not to use that method though.

 

[panteliss]

The trick using the bolts is that you loose time until to screw each one so you heat the bearings and then you start to screw the screws , now what happend you dont have screwdriver that can screw the screws at once you go from once to the other and screw them a little everythime
this give the advantage to the temparature to transfered from the heat bearing to the crankshaft and the shaft start to expand while you screwing the screws , after some seconds the shaft have expand enough that it comes in situation like not to be in the freezer , then for close the cases you must overtorque the screws , but overtorque them is a big risk for stripped the threads in the crankcases because is a soft material magnesium

sorry for my bad english i try to explain as good as i can

 

[Mattyo]

You striped the threads to the crankcase this is what i mean

I stripped the threads? I don't think I did. I do agree that its a risk, but based on how many cases I've done, I think its unlikely. Also, the number of threads grabbed by case screws are more than anywhere else on the saw, so they are less likely to get stripped as long as you go slow.

 

[Mattyo]

I do like that install tool that he has...now I gotta figure out how to make one

 

[Mattyo]

actually, after looking at that video, I disagree with that tool. if he is attempting to pull that crank through the inner race, that tool needs to brace itself against the inner race, so as to not put lateral force on the bearing. maybe I'll go design something better

 

[panteliss]

When you make the new design chainsaw tools dont forget to register them with a worldwide patent . It will be shame the stihl and husqvarna to steal such a fantastic ideas.

 

[Mattyo]

far as I know, a worldwide patent is somewhere in the $250,000 range....

 

[panteliss]

 

[Glock37]

actually, after looking at that video, I disagree with that tool. if he is attempting to pull that crank through the inner race, that tool needs to brace itself against the inner race, so as to not put lateral force on the bearing. maybe I'll go design something better

Heat is your friend