How to DIY a tool, putting case halves together WITHOUT A PRESS

[Mattyo]

yes, I know you enjoy ribbin me

 

[jmssaws]

Why not put the seals in after its together?

 

[jmssaws]

I've watched my neighbor split cases and assemble them with the oem tool and it sounds awful,popping and squeaking.

I heat it up and put it together with no effort what so ever, no pressure or forcing. I always use heat so seals are last.

 

[Mattyo]

For the 660 kit I ripped out the seals...assembled. ...then put new oems in

 

[jmssaws]

For the 660 kit I ripped out the seals...assembled. ...then put new oems in

That's how I like to do it

 

[mdavlee]

I've put the pto bearing in and had it fall all the way through when they were plenty warm. If I have to pull the cases together any with bolts the crank doesn't turn very free. If they drop together by hand it's usually free spinning.

 

[beaglebriar]

I've put the pto bearing in and had it fall all the way through when they were plenty warm. If I have to pull the cases together any with bolts the crank doesn't turn very free. If they drop together by hand it's usually free spinning.

The 372 I just did got stuck when it was part way together. I pulled it the rest of the way with a similar tool to Matt's. It spun absolutely free when I was done. Kinda surprised me.

I'll always use heat but these tools have their place. I made mine to push the seals in. I think that's where they'll really shine.

 

[mdavlee]

The 372 I just did got stuck when it was part way together. I pulled it the rest of the way with a similar tool to Matt's. It spun absolutely free when I was done. Kinda surprised me.

I'll always use heat but these tools have their place. I made mine to push the seals in. I think that's where they'll really shine.

Yep. I may make a set for the clutch side of a 372 and the 44/46/66

 

[beaglebriar]

Yep. I may make a set for the clutch side of a 372 and the 44/46/66

All the dimensions are in Tor's thread in the technical section. 1 1/2" round stock works perfect.

 

[Mattyo]

Certainly you can use a lathe...but it's absolutely not needed. 3/4" threaded rod...some washers ...old bearings 6202and 6203 inner races. Some nuts and a small piece of 3/4 copper pipe if you want to get fancy like version 2.0. If it takes you more than 20 minutes to build a tool you I'd be surprised. No harm in making nice tooling...but doing it by hand seems to work fine. The hardest thing is finding the taps for pto side. But they are on ebay and pretty cheap.

 

[Tor R]

Yep. I may make a set for the clutch side of a 372 and the 44/46/66

Mike, you only need to make 6 bolts and you have covered pretty much the whole line up to Husky from around 1985 and until today.
Here is an overview of thread system Husky has used:


Your bolts should be threaded 60mm, its always best to have a bit longer bolts then needed.


You need to lathe out two sockets, one for 15mm crank axel and one for 17mm.


Here is an OEM kit who fit 346:


There is a bit more reading here:
http://opeforum.com/threads/crank-mounting-tool-crank-threads.4804/

 

[Mattyo]

Essential info there Tor... thanks.
I know husky 340, 345, 350 and 455 rancher all use the same pto and flywheel side threads as 346xp ... so you can add those to that list




Those shop tools are very nicely made, but I like my version 2.0... I can use my impact on it if I want

 

[Mattyo]

oh, since those pto sides are all left hand thread, likely I need to expand my collection of taps a bit...

 

[Stihl working Hard]

372 crankcase assembly.... GOT IT

Really good video Matt have used heat and freezer for years will have to try your method on my next project thanks for sharing very informative my friend thanks for sharing

 

[Tor R]

Essential info there Tor... thanks.
I know husky 340, 345, 350 and 455 rancher all use the same pto and flywheel side threads as 346xp ... so you can add those to that list




Those shop tools are very nicely made, but I like my version 2.0... I can use my impact on it if I want

never thought we needed tools for 340/345/350 since they are clamshell design.
50/51/55 goes together with 254/357/550 thread system.
I like factory tools, but to be honest, I more prefer the socket system I draw up instead of Huskies different sockets system who has a multiple solution for both bearing and seals.

oh, since those pto sides are all left hand thread, likely I need to expand my collection of taps a bit...

the only one I didnt add in the system is threads for 133/234/238/42/242/246 since those saws are super rare.
Around 84/85 Husky more or less left the UNC/UNF and went for metric system.

 

[Mattyo]

With regards to 350s ....yup..I'm a dingleberry....not need for tools though it is the same thread sizes.

Ya...I'm liking the diy tools.

 

[Mattyo]

Now we just need such a guide for stihl thread sizes.

 

[Mattyo]

Really good video Matt have used heat and freezer for years will have to try your method on my next project thanks for sharing very informative my friend thanks for sharing

Thanks!

I'm gonna keep working on it too. Seems to me like the husky shop tools are very nice, but it also seems to me like they never chose to improve much on the design once it was made. I'm gonna keep trying to improve on what I've got. tis interesting

 

[mdavlee]

Mike, you only need to make 6 bolts and you have covered pretty much the whole line up to Husky from around 1985 and until today.
Here is an overview of thread system Husky has used:
View attachment 58936

Your bolts should be threaded 60mm, its always best to have a bit longer bolts then needed.


You need to lathe out two sockets, one for 15mm crank axel and one for 17mm.
View attachment 58938

Here is an OEM kit who fit 346:
View attachment 58939

There is a bit more reading here:
http://opeforum.com/threads/crank-mounting-tool-crank-threads.4804/

With some bad clutches with busted spiders and a little welding I can probably make all of mine and not need the left hand taps.

 

[Mattyo]

I suppose it's possible to do that. Or you can just borrow the taps from me