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Hours on a chain before needs sharpened

Iron.and.bark

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You must have dirty wood or real steep angles ,i was using ripping chain off the usg grinder ,but tried square one day ,full skip ,same chain i fall with or cut firewood ,at 15 degree top plate i am getting a decent finish with square ,i looked at my round and the cutting edge is thinner than my square and more fragile ,may be why the round is dulling faster ,cutting edge not as thick or strong ,granted i am cutting softwoods ,doug fir and western red cedar ,and it was freshly fell so wet inside still ,not a bit of dirt on the logs ,was moved with a skid loader with forks right away .
This is not the same chain ,but same grind angles i was using View attachment 27014

It's abit chalk and cheese really. See the hardest wood thread. What maybe a sharp enough chain for a soft wood is dead blunt in a hardwood.

Milling full comp, chisel with raker angles at 10 on ~40" bar on alaskan with 404 gets me around time specified.

Using a 24" bar on logosol, with full comp chisel .325 at 0° angle running a 10 tooth sprocket may get me 45 mins in the softer hardwoods I mill.
 

MustangMike

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Why would you run a 10 tooth sprocket in hard wood??? Won't the increased chain speed dull the chain faster, negating any benefit of the increased speed from the sprocket?

I learned a long time ago that drilling metal with my cordless drill set on the slow speed goes much faster (and ruins less bits) than trying to drill metal on the fast setting (even though they claim to be high speed drill bits). I would think that for milling, slower and more power would be the ticket.
 

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The 10 tooth will be slower but have more torque. Think of a bike sprocket the big one pedals slower but you get more torque but the smaller the sprocket the faster it gets but you lose torque.
 

KenJax Tree

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The 7 pin is the little one, you got it backwards, 10 pin is speed, not torque.

Sure about that? Mike your a pretty smart guy and even ride a bike so when you use the smallest sprocket how fast are your feet moving compared to on a bigger sprocket?

I know the 7 is smaller but its gonna be faster than the 10 but have less torque
 

MustangMike

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If it is from the power end (crank or engine) smaller is more torque, large is more speed. 10 pin is much bigger than 7 pin.

Going up hill you use the little gear on the crank (39 tooth) down hill, you use the big gear (53 tooth). The gears on the rear wheel are just the opposite, the 11 tooth is for downhill, the 28 tooth is for climbing (FYI, for anyone who cares, I run an 11 speed rear gear pack).

I have had 8 tooth sprockets on 2 saws, I replaced them with 7 pins. The 7 pin is smaller. For every revolution of the engine, a 7 pin moves 7 drive links, an 8 pin moves 8 drive links, and a 10 pin moves 10 drive links. The 7 pin is more torque, the 10 pin is more speed.
 

T.Roller

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If it is from the power end (crank or engine) smaller is more torque, large is more speed. 10 pin is much bigger than 7 pin.

Going up hill you use the little gear on the crank (39 tooth) down hill, you use the big gear (53 tooth). The gears on the rear wheel are just the opposite, the 11 tooth is for downhill, the 28 tooth is for climbing (FYI, for anyone who cares, I run an 11 speed rear gear pack).

I have had 8 tooth sprockets on 2 saws, I replaced them with 7 pins. The 7 pin is smaller. For every revolution of the engine, a 7 pin moves 7 drive links, an 8 pin moves 8 drive links, and a 10 pin moves 10 drive links. The 7 pin is more torque, the 10 pin is more speed.
Agreed
 

MustangMike

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Hey, no problem. My Dad used to say "the only person who never makes a mistake is the guy who does not get out of bed in the morning, and he is making the biggest mistake of all". We have all been there! Sleep sounds like a good idea, goodnight!
 

T.Roller

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You're right Mike I stand corrected i was just thinking diameter like a tire not number of teeth .....its late and i need to go to sleep[emoji1]

I guess you're still smart one
It took me awhile to wrap my head around it, than I stood back and thought about it with a clear head and it mafe sense.
 

Iron.and.bark

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Why would you run a 10 tooth sprocket in hard wood??? Won't the increased chain speed dull the chain faster, negating any benefit of the increased speed from the sprocket?

I learned a long time ago that drilling metal with my cordless drill set on the slow speed goes much faster (and ruins less bits) than trying to drill metal on the fast setting (even though they claim to be high speed drill bits). I would think that for milling, slower and more power would be the ticket.

I did say "softer" hardwood. Denser it's back to 9.

10 tooth is for both production speed and superior finish. Ported for torque by myself 3120. I get a better finish on m8 logosol than my bandsaw, but obviously have a wider kerf.

Understand the drill anolgy, but chain speed is probably similar to 8 tooth 404
 

MustangMike

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I did say "softer" hardwood. Denser it's back to 9.

10 tooth is for both production speed and superior finish. Ported for torque by myself 3120. I get a better finish on m8 logosol than my bandsaw, but obviously have a wider kerf.

Understand the drill anolgy, but chain speed is probably similar to 8 tooth 404

There is no substitute for experience, and just doing what works. Good info.
 

Iron.and.bark

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It is just a case of trying to adapt an imperfect machine to be as close to perfect for the situation you have in front of you.

For some cuts I would also love a 6 tooth sprocket or a modern planetary drive saw.

As for chain speed according to

http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_chn_speed.htm

And using 12k as number (yes will be lower in cut).

.404x2x8x1200/720 = 107.73 feet per second

.325x2x10x1200/720 = 108.33 feet per second

10 tooth sounded like it should run enormously faster,eh?
 
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