Rakers?

[Junk Meister]

Filing from inside the tooth outward (pushing the file toward the cutting edge) creates a sharp edge. Filing inward (pushing the file from the cutting edge inward toward the underside of the cutter) pulls the cutter in toward the file face, which is bumpy, which creates vibration (catch on the file face-and-release-and-catch), which creates a rough rounded cutter edge. It may be "sharp" but it is not as sharp as it could be. If you were to use a fine-grit diamond file the effect would be less noticeable, but similar. If filing correctly a burr is created when sharpening a worn (rounded, non-sharp) cutter, then the burr breaks off when the cutter is sharp leaving a crisp razor-sharp edge (potentially with less material removal). An added bonus is the metal filings are pushed outside of the bar instead of deposited between chain links.


Filing across a depth gauge (perpendicular to the line of travel, at 90°) causes the edge of the depth gauge to catch on the file face. Filing toward the saw head causes the depth gauge to lift and vibrate against the file which is counter-productive. Filing toward the bar nose ("on an angle" because the cutters are in the way to file exactly toward the bar nose at 0°) puts tension on the chain sprocket and pulls the chain taught, reducing vibration and makes a much smoother cut. Chain tension is maintained as the chain is resting on the bar flat. Filing toward the powerhead can cause the chain to vibrate because the slack created by gravity pulling the chain away from the bar can cause the chain to pull before enough tension is created to pull against the powerhead sprocket, causing the depth gauge to catch on the file face, release, gravity pull the chain back, and the process to repeat.


The original question I was intending to answer is, "By the way, has anyone ever been in the woods filing rakers and called up a turkey?" To me that implies the sound created by filing (file chatter), not chatter of the chain going through wood with the powerhead running as that would not be a sound that attracts turkeys in my experience.

Not turkeys But White Tail deer have stopped to watch While I sharpen the saw. One Time they went running by and I caught a movement at the edge of my vision and fairly sure it was a Big Cat chasing them. Found tracks later and keeps one wondering (nervous).

 

[Junk Meister]

It's more about the handling and operator/saw mechanics. With the saw weight pushing down bucking, you'd think the saw would get stuck more, but it's the opposite. It's easier to modulate the feed rate. Get it wound up and let it rip all the way through. The weight helps feed the saw and not much dogging is required (with an aggressive chain).

When felling, there is more stopping and starting(this is the bulk of the issue), awkward positions (dogging in too hard), and chips do no clean out as well either. No weight of the saw to help feed, so one must dog in, often awkwardly and may stall the clutch. Also, with too much hook, one must pull the chain away from the wood before letting off the throttle, or the chain will get stuck and not want to start up again.

Not the best example, but IIRC, this chain was a bit aggressive. Note a little stalling sound when felling but cuts like butter bucking.

"AND" When the Sap is running it takes/flushes oil from the chain as you are felling. (I agree with the rest of you as well.

 

[ManiacalMark]

I honestly like the WCS raker gauge, have options and it’s nice and stiff (that’s what she said).

 

[Fleethirte]

I filed about 3 swipes on each raker, she is a self feeding chain now!

I can remember chains acting like this years ago brand new, are they making them now with higher rakers?

 

[isaaccarlson]

I filed about 3 swipes on each raker, she is a self feeding chain now!

I can remember chains acting like this years ago brand new, are they making them now with higher rakers?

Yep. I have to take em down on every chain I get. I used to sharpen at least 3 times before touching them, about 20 years ago. Now I have to put every chain in the chain grinder, or even worse, use the belt grinder to remove safety humps or those fangled "vanguard" folded rakers. It's getting hard to find good affordable chain these days. You have to special order it and it's $$$$. I would spin my own, but I don't have $1,000 or more to dump on rolls of chain.

 

[pbillyi69]

i sharpen every new chain before i even run it and take two or three cuts off the rakers too

 

[Wilhelm]

For me the only chains that wouldn't cut well new out of the box were full chisel Stihl 3/8"Picco.
I have one on my Dolmar PS-311TH and one on my Makita UC250D.
The chains felt underwhelming and wouldn't bite properly - checked the rakers during a touchup and they were too high.

Maybe the manufacturers implement higher rakers on their chains to get lower kickback ratings?!

On full size 3/8" Husqvarna X-Cut and old stock Oregon/Dolmar chains I can go a couple touchups without touching the rakers.

 

[Loony661]

Yep. I have to take em down on every chain I get. I used to sharpen at least 3 times before touching them, about 20 years ago. Now I have to put every chain in the chain grinder, or even worse, use the belt grinder to remove safety humps or those fangled "vanguard" folded rakers. It's getting hard to find good affordable chain these days. You have to special order it and it's $$$$. I would spin my own, but I don't have $1,000 or more to dump on rolls of chain.

A 100ft roll of Oregon EXL is under $400 shipped. And a 100ft roll of Stihl RS is around $550… I can make 19 chains that are 84 DL (24/25”) on that roll. That’s $21-28 per chain depending which way you go. Still a LOT cheaper than buying loops.

 

[isaaccarlson]

A 100ft roll of Oregon EXL is under $400 shipped. And a 100ft roll of Stihl RS is around $550… I can make 19 chains that are 84 DL (24/25”) on that roll. That’s $21-28 per chain depending which way you go. Still a LOT cheaper than buying loops.

I have 3 different sizes of chain, so that means I have to spend north of $1,500. Buying new bars to convert to 2 sizes of chain wouldn't help.
I have been finding discount loops online and buying when the price is right so far.

 

[Loony661]

I have 3 different sizes of chain, so that means I have to spend north of $1,500. Buying new bars to convert to 2 sizes of chain wouldn't help.
I have been finding discount loops online and buying when the price is right so far.

Ah, that makes a difference. Most chain is available in 25’ rolls as well, and prices accordingly.

 

[Junk Meister]

Ah, that makes a difference. Most chain is available in 25’ rolls as well, and prices accordingly.

It Seems to me there is very little savings by the 25 ft roll especially with being a few DLs' short or a lot of extra ones .
If you price loops in multiples the per piece price starts to close the price gap of 25 ft rolls.

 

[Squareground3691]

A 100ft roll of Oregon EXL is under $400 shipped. And a 100ft roll of Stihl RS is around $550… I can make 19 chains that are 84 DL (24/25”) on that roll. That’s $21-28 per chain depending which way you go. Still a LOT cheaper than buying loops.

You ever try Husky X Cut C83 chain,

 

[Loony661]

You ever try Husky X Cut C83 chain,

Yes. I’m honestly not that impressed. It’s fast put of the box, yes, but that it’s no different than any other chain.

 

[isaaccarlson]

I just picked up some C85 loops. Going to try them out.

 

[Wilhelm]

For me X-Cut C83 holds an edge superior to Oregon, Carlton, Stihl - same round ground big C cutter profile.

I am hyped, one of the best chains I ever used!

 

[Wilhelm]

Dolmar 496, aka Oregon Vanguard - I fix them and like 'em very much!
This one is on my Dolmar PS-6100 MMWS.

 

[Farmchuck]

Does anyone else have issues with holding theses plates level with one hand while trying to flat file with the other? I have the old Carlton plates, the Husqvarna plates & even the new WCS ones but I have a hard time holding them in the chain without rocking side to side. Thanks.

 

[Squareground3691]

Does anyone else have issues with holding theses plates level with one hand while trying to flat file with the other? I have the old Carlton plates, the Husqvarna plates & even the new WCS ones but I have a hard time holding them in the chain without rocking side to side. Thanks.

Are you sharpening chain on saw , or other method, ? If on saw tighten up chain snug so it doesn’t rock at all , chain vice works great to ,

 

[Wilhelm]

Archer FastFiler sits on top of the chain basically holding it down.
I moved most of my sharpening to my grinder, but I still set rakers with my FastFiler jigs.

As @Squareground3691 said , over tightening the chain reduces the rocking.
IIRC, some people shove their scrench between the chain and bar on the bars bottom side to reduce the rocking.

 

[pbillyi69]

i usually hold the tooth im filing as well as making the chain tight. it also keeps me from running the file into the cutter