Hopping Up an 036 Pro...

[bulletpruf]

One more comment -- it sure feels weird having a decomp on a 62cc saw, especially when I've got a 137cc Stihl on the shelf that doesn't have a decomp (you have to pull that cord with conviction!). I plan to leave it on unless there's a good reason to toss it.

 

[bulletpruf]

You only file the part of the key way that sits above the crank stub. Flat file works fine, I just put the key in a vise. If you file the whole side of the key it will rock in the slot and give you more timing advance than you filed off.. you don’t want to do that.

"I see" said the blind man!

 

[Canadian farm boy]

"I see" said the blind man!

Just a couple pics for reference.
This is how I hold the FW key when I file it.
This is a 1125 muffler with a second outlet added on the FW side. I believe the hole is 3/4” or 7/8” diameter

 

[drf256]

Thanks. The mismatch between stock mufflers and cylinders makes me want to say bad words.

Almost always, the factory exhaust gasket if matched to the ex port quite well. It’s usually the muffler opening that’s smaller, because it needs that bent in flange for strength. I usually check the gasket to the outer port, then I put it on the muffler and scribe a guide line with a silver sharpie.

On more extreme builds, one can use a factory 034/44/64 spacer as a guide-again, same size as 036 outlet and made of steel. Bolt muffler/gasket/heat shield to back of muffler in correct orientation (use spacer where jug would be). Just use some M5 screws with your muffler bolts. Then you can match everything at once. Scribe a mark on your gasket before you do this so they you know how to install and match it all. The spacer I use has already been opened up, I actually bolt it to the cylinder as well (in proper orientation) and get the exact same shape and opening as the muffler/gasket/shield will be. I stamped mine “TO” for “top outer”. It works for me.

Every removable crank key I’ve measured from Stihl has been .078. If your tool or key is off it really doesn’t matter. Just remove .025 as planned.

 

[bulletpruf]

Thanks for the input. I ordered a pencil grinder today; should be here by the weekend.

 

[bulletpruf]

Jug is pretty much done, I think. I gasket matched the exhaust port; used a Dremel since my pencil grinder isn't here yet. I blended it in as best as I could with the Dremel and finished it off by hand. Just need to clean up the bore a bit and work on the chamfer where the intake port meets the bore.



Muffler is a dual port now and also matched to the gasket. Took a fair bit of work, mostly on the sides, where I ended up taking out most of the flange. I have one more round of grinding and sanding to do before I'll call it done. I'll finish it off with some high temp flat black.





Heat shield didn't take too long; mostly needed some material ground off top and bottom of port.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I like your fw side deflector, and those others that show their welding skills, just makes me jealous

I,m looking forward to the test run, and try get a psi reading, before and after a few tanks of fuel.


Here’s two vids of my 036 that I’ve re uploaded. The first is 18” bar and 20 thou off the key (iirc) not sure what wood it is thou.
And the second is 20” bar in beech wood that had been drying in the sun. I,m sure this is 30 thou off the key. As it was recorded later in may

Edit I’ve just remembered the 2nd vid is my sq filing on the chain as well.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Umm that’s interesting if you now make your vid age restricted, you can’t view it here. I guess I will change the age thing and see what happens to the links

edit.. I’ve changed the vids to, don’t restrict to over 18 yrs but I left it’s as not made for kids.
And now there viewable here

 

[bulletpruf]

I like your fw side deflector, and those others that show their welding skills, just makes me jealous

I,m looking forward to the test run, and try get a psi reading, before and after a few tanks of fuel.


Here’s two vids of my 036 that I’ve re uploaded. The first is 18” bar and 20 thou off the key (iirc) not sure what wood it is thou.
And the second is 20” bar in beech wood that had been drying in the sun. I,m sure this is 30 thou off the key. As it was recorded later in may

Edit I’ve just remembered the 2nd vid is my sq filing on the chain as well.

Yeah, I have a MIG and debated using it for the deflector but the screws work just fine.

Your 036 is stout! Thanks for the video.

 

[Al Smith]

I did have an 034 that I put an 036 top end on with a Meteor piston .It wasn't modified but did good for 60 cc's .I've got another which is a 034 super which in essence is an 036 .I'll mod that one but I doubt there are any so called special tricks involved from other Stihl saws I've done .
As far as any shrouding on a muffler you can braze it if you want .A chainsaw muffler will never get hot enough to melt the brass unless you have rocket fuel in it .Then it would run very fast but not really very long

 

[Nutball]

I did have an 034 that I put an 036 top end on with a Meteor piston .It wasn't modified but did good for 60 cc's .I've got another which is a 034 super which in essence is an 036 .I'll mod that one but I doubt there are any so called special tricks involved from other Stihl saws I've done .
As far as any shrouding on a muffler you can braze it if you want .A chainsaw muffler will never get hot enough to melt the brass unless you have rocket fuel in it .Then it would run very fast but not really very long

Rocket fuel? Like dog crap rocket fuel?

Any special flux needed for brazing brass to steel? Will a propane torch deliver enough heat? I have a somewhere a mini MAPP/Oxy brazing kit I got long ago, but the Mapp gas valve had no regulator and would make controlling the flame temp near impossible. I've always wanted to try brazing, and it's long past due to learn.

 

[bulletpruf]

Off work today; had planned to wrench on an old Bronco in the driveway but weather is just plain *s-wordty so I stayed in the shop/garage and worked on the 036.

Finished cleaning up the inside of the jug -- smoothed out the chamfers by the ports with some 400 grit, hit the areas with some minor transfer (couldn't catch anything on a fingernail) with some muriatic acid and finished up with some Scotchbrite.

Got the flywheel key cut down .025" so now it's at .058". Vise grips in the vise setup worked quite well. Appreciate the tip on that.





Checked the piston to jug clearance with base gasket in place. Again, appreciate the tips on this -- I used thin soldering wire set in the middle, where the piston pin will keep things in place. Did this without rings on the piston. A little dab of grease held the wire in place. Came up with .024" - .025" so there's not much room as it sits. The factory gasket is pretty thick at .019, so removing it is out of the question. I'm either going to use it as-is or cut some from a sheet of FelPro 3011; ordered some earlier today and it's .015" thick.

 

[bulletpruf]

Here's the base gasket measurement -


And the crank key.

 

[bulletpruf]

Pencil grinder just arrived, so I can finish the exhaust port -- need to widen the port where it hits the cylinder and blend that in. Question - do y'all use a carbide burr, sandpaper roll, abrasive stone, or all the above?

 

[Canadian farm boy]

Pencil grinder just arrived, so I can finish the exhaust port -- need to widen the port where it hits the cylinder and blend that in. Question - do y'all use a carbide burr, sandpaper roll, abrasive stone, or all the above?

View attachment 275067

Carbide burr followed by a split mandrel with some emery cloth wrapped around it. I use 80-120-220 grit emery cloth and then if you really wanna shine it up hit the port with some scotch brite.

 

[FederalQ]

Good work! Hmmm, that base gasket doesn’t look factory. Has this saw been wrenched on before?

 

[Wonkydonkey]

My guess is when you bolt the head down your squish will be a little less than 25.
And I agree as federalist says, it don’t look oem.

 

[huskyboy]

Good work! Hmmm, that base gasket doesn’t look factory. Has this saw been wrenched on before?

Some of the older stihls had paper base gaskets. The mid 1990’s era 066 I worked on did.

 

[bulletpruf]

Good work! Hmmm, that base gasket doesn’t look factory. Has this saw been wrenched on before?

Good question. I've only had it for a few years, so no telling what was done prior to me getting it.

My guess is when you bolt the head down your squish will be a little less than 25.
And I agree as federalist says, it don’t look oem.

Well, I bolted the jug down when I checked squish so it shouldn't change.

Some of the older stihls had paper base gaskets. The mid 1990’s era 066 I worked on did.

The sticker on the brake handle is dated 1994, so I'm guessing this is a 1994 or 1995 saw.

 

[smokey7]

When you text wish did you roll this all over several times until you didn't feel a touch anymore?