Homemade Reduced Weight Bar

[Jon1212]

Hss cutter started smokin before I came remotely close to gettin anywhere

I had to use lots of Oatey dark oil.

 

[junkman]

Automotive filler plastics are too soft and will crack with bar flex.

 

[Philbert]

However, vehicles generally aren't subjected to the same physicals rigours of a chainsaw guide bar.

Guide bars are 't subject to the same UV exposure as vehicles. Might not be a problem.

Try it.

Test it.

If it does not work it will be easy to grind out and replace.

How many filaments did Edison test before settling on tungsten?

You did not create a finished product, you created a test platform.

Philbert

 

[Jon1212]

Guide bars are 't subject to the same UV exposure as vehicles. Might not be a problem.

Try it.

Test it.

If it does not work it will be easy to grind out and replace.

How many filaments did Edison test before settling on tungsten?

You did not create a finished product, you created a test platform.

Philbert

I was referring to friction, heat, and being stuck in a tree.

I agree with @junkman about it being too flexible.

Sure these are test platforms, but as I stated previously, I have no intention of applying paint, it's unnecessary, and provides nothing substantial to the finished product.

I think JB Weld will be my next test filler, and as I go along I will probably get into melting down HDPE milk jugs, as you and I discussed at length.

 

[beaglebriar]

I was referring to friction, heat, and being stuck in a tree.

I agree with @junkman about it being too flexible.

Sure these are test platforms, but as I stated previously, I have no intention of applying paint, it's unnecessary, and provides nothing substantial to the finished product.

I think JB Weld will be my next test filler, and as I go along I will probably get into melting down HDPE milk jugs, as you and I discussed at length.

I can tell you with some certainty that the milk jug thing will not work without a good lip to hold it in place. It won't adhere to the steel and it's very hard to get anything to bond to that type of plastic (hdpe). It will also become soft easily if you happen to overheat the bar.

Not trying to discourage you at all just sharing some of my experience with that particular plastic.

 

[TimRD]

That is true hdpe doesn't bond with anything. Where I work we injection mold hdpe and mdpe for use in ball valves for gas distribution. The only thing that will kind of stick but can still be easily pulled off is RTV. Melting is at 450, but hdpe will soften at pretty low temperatures. If you were going to more or less mold it on a second attempt you would almost have to use a laminated bar and remove a lamination from either side and drill through holes through the bar so the plastic could flow through and have something to hold it in place.

I probably just put everyone back to sleep....sorry guys

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[smokey7]

I also think trying some duraglass short strand style or even kittyhair long strand would work very well. That stuff is very tough.

 

[junkman]

This stuff is sort of a jb weld type stuff ,but will take more heat i believe ,i coated a leaking exhaust manifold on my 454 boat engine with it ,and it never popped off or leaked after .

Edit ,if i remember right it bonds to aluminum boat hulls to fix leaks so should stick to a steel bar well .

 

[Backtroller]

That's impressive. I might to look for that stuff

 

[beaglebriar]

I think that is sometimes used for bedding rifle actions.

 

[mdavlee]

That's supposed to be good stuff.

 

[Jon1212]

The fourth, and final cutout has been done, epoxy filled, and the whole thing cleaned up somewhat.

I ended up at 3.51 lbs, but with a bar that has a lot less flex than my 3.25 lbs Oregon RW bar.

It certainly isn't pretty, or machined to exactness, but I did all of this at home, in my garage, without high tech gadgets, and gizmos.

 

[Philbert]

I like the 'see-through' look!

So what now? Shelf queen? Next prototype / iteration? Quantitative cookie cutting testing? Mail it around to OPE members (their postal expense) for durability testing and feedback?
You could compete with Sabrina at the outdoor power opinions site!

BTW - did anybody dissect a Sugi bar to see how their cavities are shaped (e.g. concave edges or shelfs), or to determine what type of filler plug they use?

Philbert

 

[Jon1212]

I like the 'see-through' look!

So what now? Shelf queen? Next prototype / iteration? Quantitative cookie cutting testing? Mail it around to OPE members (their postal expense) for durability testing and feedback?
You could compete with Sabrina at the outdoor power opinions site!

BTW - did anybody dissect a Sugi bar to see how their cavities are shaped (e.g. concave edges or shelfs), or to determine what type of filler plug they use?

Philbert

I will start on the next version in a day, or two. Probably fewer, but longer cutouts.

I am also considering using a 1 1/4" diameter cutter, as I have a considerable amount of room from center, to the bar groove. This will allow for greater weight reduction.

Ultimately, I would like to run these myself, but I may ask a few folks to run them as well. Brotherhood of the travelling guide bar...

 

[Jon1212]

http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_lightweightbar.htm

Here is a detailed write up from Madsens. One thing I wasn't aware of, is the fact that the OEM RW has a reduced overall thickness.....that would certainly explain the "buggy whip" effect when combined with the long, uninterrupted cutout.

 

[TimRD]

Looks great Jon! Definitely a success. Should be great in the cut with the extra rigidity compared with a regular RW. Let us know how it cuts!

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[Jon1212]

Looks great Jon! Definitely a success. Should be great in the cut with the extra rigidity compared with a regular RW. Let us know how it cuts!

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Thanks, Tim.

 

[pa-aaronq]

I was referring to friction, heat, and being stuck in a tree.

I agree with @junkman about it being too flexible.

Sure these are test platforms, but as I stated previously, I have no intention of applying paint, it's unnecessary, and provides nothing substantial to the finished product.

I think JB Weld will be my next test filler, and as I go along I will probably get into melting down HDPE milk jugs, as you and I discussed at length.

Maybe you can try bacon grease as a filler. After every two cuts you may have to take a beer break and stick the bar in the cooler to keep it from melting. It could end up being the best day you've ever had cutting.

 

[TimRD]

http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_lightweightbar.htm

Here is a detailed write up from Madsens. One thing I wasn't aware of, is the fact that the OEM RW has a reduced overall thickness.....that would certainly explain the "buggy whip" effect when combined with the long, uninterrupted cutout.

This seems pretty surprising to me. Having that large single cutout in the middle and a reduced thickness and yours is about the same weight...seems like they should have gone about like you did to me. Having those stringers in between the cutouts really keeps the strength there as you measured.

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[Redfin]

I think you did a pretty dang good job Jon.