HOMELITE Homelite Thread

[sawnami]

can you get me a pic of the complete clutch i might have a tool for the clutch you can have

It's similar to this one except threads instead of splines. I'm house-bound recovering from a hip replacement so I can't readily get to the actual clutches in my parts inventory.

Sent from my SM-N910V

 

[jeepsnchainsaws]

Hey all you homelite lovers! I picked these two units up for 35 bucks and was curious what you can tell me about them! The EZ is in beautiful shape, the 330 needs fuel and oil caps but that's all I can see thus far.

Nice EZ, good saw! The 330 has a bad intake boot, they are cheap and after replaced they are great cutting saws that pull a 24" no problem, I have a few. One of my is brand new

 

[fossil]

Standard Magneto is manufacturing the blue Prestolite coils again.

http://stores.ebay.com/Standard-Magneto-Sales-Co-Inc?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

 

[jeepsnchainsaws]

 

[fossil]

This coil seems to be a very good replacement for the Homelite XL-76 saws using the Prestolite blue coil.

The goal of the test (at least for me) was to find an alternate coil that is common and reasonably priced that would mount up using bracket made with simple tools that an average handy chainsaw guy could use with good results.
No advance or retard of the timing was required. The saw must have gained a little advance as the starter grip will bite if you aren't aggressive with the pull.

The alternate coil used is a Farmer TEC coil labelled with their PN 05230034266. If you google that number it will take you to a number of sellers of that coil.
The coil is listed for a replacement for many Huskys including 51, 55, 61, 254, 268, 272. I can get that coil from Amazon.ca delivered for less than $20 CDN.

The saw runs and starts very well.

A few pics of what has to be done.

I started with this

The spacer upper left over the top coil mount on the cylinder and the bracket for the rear mount. I used 1/4" mild steel for both. A couple of small washers = a 1/8" in thickness could be used for the top spacer to simplify things.

The coil adapter spacer and bracket look like this off the saw. The clearance holes for the mounting and coil placement adjusting are 8-32's

The bend in the bracket for the turned down leg is for anti rotation.

A pic of the backside of the Husky aftermarket coil with the spacer and bracket

The finished product. You can see that the plug wire is too long but screws out for shortening as required.

To complete the testing I am going to try the coil on a Pioneer Farmsaw and a Homelite Super XLAO in the near future

If you have any questions, fire away,

Thanks to @Hoggwood for the first test using a coil from a Husky 254 and to @PogoInTheWoods for tracking down the PN's and again to @DSS for the coil.

And yes, the saw needs a good blow out. The dust is from a pile of dead white ash I cut last year.

 

[countryhog]

This coil seems to be a very good replacement for the Homelite XL-76 saws using the Prestolite blue coil.

The goal of the test (at least for me) was to find an alternate coil that is common and reasonably priced that would mount up using bracket made with simple tools that an average handy chainsaw guy could use with good results.
No advance or retard of the timing was required. The saw must have gained a little advance as the starter grip will bite if you aren't aggressive with the pull.

The alternate coil used is a Farmer TEC coil labelled with their PN 05230034266. If you google that number it will take you to a number of sellers of that coil.
The coil is listed for a replacement for many Huskys including 51, 55, 61, 254, 268, 272. I can get that coil from Amazon.ca delivered for less than $20 CDN.

The saw runs and starts very well.

A few pics of what has to be done.

I started with this

The spacer upper left over the top coil mount on the cylinder and the bracket for the rear mount. I used 1/4" mild steel for both. A couple of small washers = a 1/8" in thickness could be used for the top spacer to simplify things.

The coil adapter spacer and bracket look like this off the saw. The clearance holes for the mounting and coil placement adjusting are 8-32's

The bend in the bracket for the turned down leg is for anti rotation.

A pic of the backside of the Husky aftermarket coil with the spacer and bracket

The finished product. You can see that the plug wire is too long but screws out for shortening as required.

To complete the testing I am going to try the coil on a Pioneer Farmsaw and a Homelite Super XLAO in the near future

If you have any questions, fire away,

Thanks to @Hoggwood for the first test using a coil from a Husky 254 and to @PogoInTheWoods for tracking down the PN's and again to @DSS for the coil.

And yes, the saw needs a good blow out. The dust is from a pile of dead white ash I cut last year.

Tim, totally OUTSTANDING work yall done

 

[DSS]

It works. How cool is that

 

[Hoggwood]

I had originally spent a bunch of time testing the polarity and magnet spacing of flywheels and attempting to mount up coils to get the XL-76's running (without the blue Prestolites). Lots of coils did not work and/or misfired badly. I found husky flywheels have the same polarity as the Wico/Prestolites on the Homelites and Pioneers. I pulled one off of a 154/254 (so we think). It mounted up and ran well. I did pull the key and time from scratch. I had mine set to a tad over 30.

The next swap will be on a XL-1 with a suspect blue Prestolite. Going to use a coil off of a spent J'red 455. Nice to have options.

Here is the picture of the one I mounted up this past December. I made a bracket from a right-angle, flat strap. It required grinding for clearance. Tim's method is easier. I mounted another spark plug wire.

XL-76/130's FTW. Hard chargers.



Coil in action...

 

[Bill G]

It's similar to this one except threads instead of splines. I'm house-bound recovering from a hip replacement so I can't readily get to the actual clutches in my parts inventory.

Sent from my SM-N910V

That is a clutch from a mid-late 2100and very brittle

 

[Honest John]

Wanted some help identifying this saw before it goes up for sale I think it's a 2000 but not sure everything's been repainted and can't find any other identifiable marks on it.

 

[Bill G]

Yes it is a 2000. Is it one you want to sell or are trying to buy?

 

[Honest John]

Yes it is a 2000. Is it one you want to sell or are trying to buy?

Regrettably, I'm gonna have to part ways with it. I'd love to keep it, but I'm in between jobs and need to sell some of the projects.

 

[Bill G]

What kind of price are you thinking?

 

[Honest John]

What kind of price are you thinking?

In the condition it's in I was thinking $200 plus shipping. Appears to be missing a muffler cover, has a crack in the recoil, but it does run with fuel down the cylinder.

 

[Bill G]

I think you are in the ballpark. You do need to pull the muffler and look at the piston as their are many scored

 

[Honest John]

I think you are in the ballpark. You do need to pull the muffler and look at the piston as their are many scored

Good advice Bill, thanks.

 

[Al Smith]

It's similar to this one except threads instead of splines. I'm house-bound recovering from a hip replacement so I can't readily get to the actual clutches in my parts inventory.

Sent from my SM-N910V

That appears to be a clutch with splined spider from a 2100S .As far as I know but I'm no Homelite expert that model was the only one that used it .

 

[Honest John]

Got another one I need help identifying. Anybody have any info on this before I start tearing into it ?

 

[Bill G]

Looks like that one needs sent my way

I believe you have a XP1000 with the auto oiler attachment/cover

 

[Honest John]

Looks like that one needs sent my way

I believe you have a XP1000 with the auto oiler attachment/cover

I think you're right. How bad do you want it ?