High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Has Anyone Here Ever Bought A Saw From Kenny?

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Mastermind

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Hack! Lol

Guilty.

Wow. What a thread here! More turns than a trip to the hardware store.
What did I go there for?

Hello Jeffus. Still planning on being here in October?

Thats pretty tight, and what I aim for as well

0.100" is one tenth, or a hundred thousandths ........................... seems pretty opposite of deadly accurate to me

I'll be quiet now

I'm not sure what tenth he was referring to....but it could be tenths of a mm.
 

farminkarman

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Guilty.



Hello Jeffus. Still planning on being here in October?



I'm not sure what tenth he was referring to....but it could be tenths of a mm.
Usually one tenth in machinist speak is one tenth of one thousandth (.0001").
 

Stump Shot

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I looked at his setup on the faceplate with the rods and tubes....and couldn't really see a precise way to remove run out. But....I'm not a machinist. I do like the idea of two plates and the base mounted to the outer one though. Seems like I could use that sort of setup in an independently adjustable 4 jaw and build a fairly quick setup system. But....I've learned to do it a certain way that takes about 10 minutes from beginning to end. And it evidently works well enough considering that I've done well over 2000 jugs that way.

A two plate setup would good for little topper cylinders without through holes, sans the standoff tubes. Otherwise pretty much the same operation with one plate on a big cylinder.
 

lehman live edge slab

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Usually one tenth in machinist speak is one tenth of one thousandth (.0001").
I agree machinists usually talk about thousandths and 10 thousandths. 100 thousandths is something jms could cut with a belt sander and tape measure. Going to less than one ten thousandths seems pretty tough and definitely not necessary on a saw in my opinion, pretty sure Stihl and husky aren’t running that tight on the plus or minus.
 

huskihl

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I believe the 1/10 he’s talking about is 1/10 of .001”.

I know how I do it, and I get most to within 5/10. I see this fellas jigs and plates and apparent knowledge and he’s way more of a machinist than me. I wouldn’t doubt his methods
 

davidwyby

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One tenth is a tenth of a thou. Like the part has to be exactly the right temp, etc., etc. in order to measure. Certified measuring devices, yadda yadda.

Super tight tolerance, usually overkill.

Wyby random (related) story. The injection pump on my deuce has a plunger with no seals but is fuel tight, super precision fit. If the head/bore is cool, and you take the plunger out and warm it up in your hand, it won’t go back in.

EDIT : what @huskihl said
 

CR888

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Since Randy gets all funny when you ask him about pigs, I had to go elsewhere. The best member who has the finest looking pigs is the Joe the dyno man. He knows lots of stuff about pigs & dynos but mostly about pigs . I'm sirius.
 

5155

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Is the run out measured from the base or wall or ??
Asking for a machinist friend.
 

Woodpecker

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Usually one tenth in machinist speak is one tenth of one thousandth (.0001").

I can remember my dad (tool & die maker) lecturing me about this after my “a tenth is a lot of play” comment one time…
 

Mastermind

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View attachment 309213
Since Randy gets all funny when you ask him about pigs, I had to go elsewhere. The best member who has the finest looking pigs is the Joe the dyno man. He knows lots of stuff about pigs & dynos but mostly about pigs . I'm sirius.

Traitor.
 

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Was thinking out loud. Have a 51cp jug at a machinist now getting base cut. Was curious how close the factory specs may be. Not really a big deal since the cyl is egged a little.
I'll ask him though.
Fun learning from you guys and him.

If I come up with a degree wheel I could really ask some dumb questions lol.
 

Egg Shooter

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Was thinking out loud. Have a 51cp jug at a machinist now getting base cut. Was curious how close the factory specs may be. Not really a big deal since the cyl is egged a little.
I'll ask him though.
Fun learning from you guys and him.

If I come up with a degree wheel I could really ask some dumb questions lol.
Easy to come by. And, once it clicks in your brain you will be like.....OH! Now i know what you doods are going on about. Then you forget stuff and look like a bumbling idiot over and over. My experience anyway.
 

AshlandMachinist

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@Moparmyway that setup was for leveling transfers, not cutting base or band (photo below.) Yes, the axis of the cylinder is the primary datum and the only thing that matters. Since I had already trued the base, then grinding the fins dead parallel to the base meant I could just stick the thing upsidedown and guarantee that all of the transfers would be timed identically with respect to the base. I swept the bore up and down with an indicator in the spindle and it was true. Could have indicated it in that way, sure, but the setup would not have been as rigid. Didn't want to risk the setup moving which could cause the plating to chip or loss of accuracy. Without a surface grinder there's other ways to do it, for sure, just more work and less certainty.
And yes, as others have said "tenth" is shorthand for 0.0001" or 2.5microns. Sorry, didn't realize that wasn't common parlance.
chainsaw transfer port cutting2.jpg

@Mastermind There is clearance in the 4 corner mounting holes of the band cutting fixture, and the posts are moveable on the faceplate. I can tap around that whole plate to adjust concentricity independently of perpendicularity, just like a four-jaw but with less hassle. Such a thing could be done in a 4-jaw instead of a faceplate, it would just take a couple of extra minutes. By design, since it locates on the spindle nose and the cylinder mounting holes it's at most 0.005-0.010" runout if you just slap it together. I thought about making a mandrel that would center on the plate, but I think that'd only get to about 0.001-0.002" with the bore tolerance and clearance figured in and it isn't much work to just indicate the thing.
As it is, since the base has already been cut true to the cylinder this guarantees that there is no wobble, only concentric runout. That means sweeping any location along the bore will true the axis of the cylinder to the axis of the lathe. If there was runout at the top different than the bottom, it would mean that the base is off and needs to be trued. Of course, you always cut or true the base first. If you didn't care about perpendicularity of the base, then it could be shimmed true.
Of course, none of this works if the fixture isn't flat and perpendicular to the axis. The plate is ground flat and parallel to better than 0.0005" over ~4" so as long as the posts are all the same height off of the faceplate, then the plane of fixture plate/base is guaranteed perpendicular to the axis of the lathe. To get the posts the same height, I just skim cut them when I install the faceplate. They're stiff enough that a light cut (only takes a thou or so) trues it up and at that point the error is no greater than the runout of the spindle bearings, which is negligible (just barely 0.0001") when measured at the opening of the fixture plate.

Honestly, with the all-thread setup you'd probably make it easier on yourself by using a ground or accurately turned bar in the cylinder to externalize the reference than running a long reach indicator up there. At least on a used cylinder that would average out the errors in the bore since they don't stay round forever. Same result, but don't take my word for it.
As you said, you've got a system that works and if it works there's no need to change it.




By the way, no need for y'all to be so sensitive! I didn't expect that from the pitchfork mob I was seeing that was my only introduction to the group.

Didn't expect "hack" to be viewed as such a pejorative in context.
Plenty of 3-chord guitar players sitting in million dollar mansions after all.
Maybe I spend too much time talking to machinists where there's lots of pride/arrogance about going for perfection. Need to code-switch over here, I suppose. I don't doubt y'all can turn out good work on a relatively crude fixture with extra care and experience, but I've seen images elsewhere that seem to defy physics. I don't understand how a person can tighten all-thread enough to get sufficient torsional stiffness to prevent chatter and movement while also doing precise adjustment, and I would expect any chatter would mean that cylinder is in a different location at the end of the cut than it was at the beginning.
I admit my experience is limited, but almost all of the cylinders that I have held in my hands that had been cut by others showed measurable perpendicularity errors cylinder to base and concentricity errors at the band. I have no idea of their provenance so I'm not trying to attack anyone. Maybe it doesn't matter, it's just a saw. I did what I did to save setup time and avoid chatter, precision is a bonus.
 

AshlandMachinist

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Good looking finish. The Stihl jugs are easy to get a nice finish on though. I use HHS. Now the newer 5 series Husqvarna jugs....I struggle with making those as slick as I would like for them to be.

Look into PCD (polycrystaline diamond) tooling.

For example: https://www.mcmaster.com/diamond-tipped-lathe-bits/

They're not cheap so don't waste them on jobs when they're not needed, but treated gently they'll last a very long time. It's a good weapon to have in your arsenal. Cut like a dream in any aluminum alloy - might find yourself thinking the surface is a little TOO good.
I found a careful hand-sharpening of brazed carbide on DMT stones was much more manageable than HSS with a longer tool life. Low-grade inserts out of the box wouldn't cut right, for sure, and were worse than HSS.
 
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