High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

Has Anyone Here Ever Bought A Saw From Kenny?

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Mastermind

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Those are great little lathes! That extra mass would be nice, for sure.

Not surprising you couldn't figure out what you wanted to do in tech school, I still can't decide what I want to do haha!
I did take a few metalworking classes in high school, studied physics in college and trained in the Mech E shops, then learned a bit from an old timer prototyping machinist at a national lab out in Colorado, and was always hanging around asking questions with the guys in the prototyping shop in grad school while I was fumbling my way through making apparatus for research. I built out the machine shop at my work, but was smart enough to suggest that they hire an apprenticed tool and die maker to run it and subsequently I spend a lot of time picking his brain when I need to do something outside of my own experience. I wish I had more exposure to millwright methods, or at least rigging - it comes up all too often at work and I've had to figure out a lot of things the slow way .

Despite the small size of that 9x20 and swinging a large off-balanced jug (this is a 60mm), I think I can manage a decent surface finish. It took a lot of experimentation with tool geometry and speeds to get there, though. I'm no metallurgist, but there must be a high silica content in these cast aluminum alloys as they are incredibly abrasive. I was about to try PCD inserts (expensive...) before settling on hand-sharpened brazed carbide. Don't need a chip breaker for cast so it's easy to get a nice, sturdy edge on a solid chunk of carbide and I'm not spending as much on inserts. I do use them on the boring bar, though.
View attachment 309160

Good looking finish. The Stihl jugs are easy to get a nice finish on though. I use HHS. Now the newer 5 series Husqvarna jugs....I struggle with making those as slick as I would like for them to be.
 

Mastermind

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Why would you use the cast fins as a reference when you have the bore right there ??

I think his reference point is the top of the cylinder. If I understand correctly, he milled the top, then used that to setup on the milling table. I believe he is just using the fins to hold it down.
 

AlfA01

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I'm not a machinist. I have a lathe exactly like the one @AshlandMachinist I have a job that I do.....and I do it well enough to feed my family.

I thought I couldn't be more lost in a thread...what in the world does renting pigs and machine shops have to do with each other? :rolleyes:
 

Fruecrue

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The dude took something that didn't belong to him.
8 years of pretending he didn't and now it's a mad scramble of "I've been looking for you"?
B.s.
If that saw even exists he can stuff it up his thieving azz.
Don’t hold back Ed, tell us how you really feel.
 

Moparmyway

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I think his reference point is the top of the cylinder. If I understand correctly, he milled the top, then used that to setup on the milling table. I believe he is just using the fins to hold it down.
I dunno,
maybe you are right ............. but whats quoted below has all sorts of red flaggs for me. I measure runout in thousadths, solid posts dont leave any room for adjustment, I have a lathe from before WWII, use threaded rods, and I dont get 0.001 runout.

A couple of tenths ???

I know a lot of hacks out there waste all day with a kludge all-thread setup in an old worn out lathe, but I've made a proper fixture for cutting bands that's rock solid, deadly accurate, and only takes a few minutes to indicate in to a couple tenths runout.
upload_2021-9-16_14-58-2-png.309108


There's many ways to skin a cat, I get that ............. I'm hoping the initial mill cut indexxed the bore
 
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Mastermind

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I dunno,
maybe you are right ............. but whats quoted below has all sorts of red flaggs for me. I measure runout in thousadths, solid posts dont leave any room for adjustment, I have a lathe from before WWII, use threaded rods, and I dont get 0.001 runout.

A couple of tenths ???

I looked at his setup on the faceplate with the rods and tubes....and couldn't really see a precise way to remove run out. But....I'm not a machinist. I do like the idea of two plates and the base mounted to the outer one though. Seems like I could use that sort of setup in an independently adjustable 4 jaw and build a fairly quick setup system. But....I've learned to do it a certain way that takes about 10 minutes from beginning to end. And it evidently works well enough considering that I've done well over 2000 jugs that way.
 

Mastermind

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Maybe I'm naïve, but I don't think someone is a hack if they take the time to setup a cylinder on a lathe and do machine work.

Yeah. The hack comment just nearly caused me to ban him right off the bat.

Seems like an open minded fella though. I'm ok with him hanging around if he wants. But there is absolutely no way in hell Kenny is ever gonna be a member here again unless he slides in under my radar somehow.
 

Egg Shooter

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Maybe I'm naïve, but I don't think someone is a hack if they take the time to setup a cylinder on a lathe and do machine work.
Its going to catch up with him.......this doing quality work nonsense.
 

Egg Shooter

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Yeah. The hack comment just nearly caused me to ban him right off the bat.

Seems like an open minded fella though. I'm ok with him hanging around if he wants. But there is absolutely no way in hell Kenny is ever gonna be a member here again unless he slides in under my radar somehow.
I'll sniff out his brand of speaking like I did Ben very quickly. Peeps can change their screen names all day long but they can't change their personalities.
 

USMC615

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I looked at his setup on the faceplate with the rods and tubes....and couldn't really see a precise way to remove run out. But....I'm not a machinist. I do like the idea of two plates and the base mounted to the outer one though. Seems like I could use that sort of setup in an independently adjustable 4 jaw and build a fairly quick setup system. But....I've learned to do it a certain way that takes about 10 minutes from beginning to end. And it evidently works well enough considering that I've done well over 2000 jugs that way.
You have come a long way my grasshopper, from the belt sander/hoof rasp days of old...you have learned well. Elders have spoken...much fortune come to you soon.
 
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Moparmyway

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I looked at his setup on the faceplate with the rods and tubes....and couldn't really see a precise way to remove run out. But....I'm not a machinist. I do like the idea of two plates and the base mounted to the outer one though. Seems like I could use that sort of setup in an independently adjustable 4 jaw and build a fairly quick setup system. But....I've learned to do it a certain way that takes about 10 minutes from beginning to end. And it evidently works well enough considering that I've done well over 2000 jugs that way.
10 minutes on & off is about where I'm at too, but I'm thinking that your runout is tighter than a "few tenths" .....no ??
 

Mastermind

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10 minutes on & off is about where I'm at too, but I'm thinking that your runout is tighter than a "few tenths" .....no ??

I use a Mitutoyo long reach indicator that is graduated at .0005". When the needle doesn't move over one graduation at the top of the bore and the bottom, I call it good and cut the damn thing. Like I've said many times.....I'm self taught, and would never claim to be a machinist, but I reckon that's close enough for a chainsaw cylinder.
 

Stump Shot

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I use a Mitutoyo long reach indicator that is graduated at .0005". When the needle doesn't move over one graduation at the top of the bore and the bottom, I call it good and cut the damn thing. Like I've said many times.....I'm self taught, and would never claim to be a machinist, but I reckon that's close enough for a chainsaw cylinder.

Hack! Lol
 

RI Chevy

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Wow. What a thread here! More turns than a trip to the hardware store.
What did I go there for?
 

Moparmyway

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I use a Mitutoyo long reach indicator that is graduated at .0005". When the needle doesn't move over one graduation at the top of the bore and the bottom, I call it good and cut the damn thing. Like I've said many times.....I'm self taught, and would never claim to be a machinist, but I reckon that's close enough for a chainsaw cylinder.
Thats pretty tight, and what I aim for as well

0.100" is one tenth, or a hundred thousandths ........................... seems pretty opposite of deadly accurate to me

I'll be quiet now
 
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