High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

SOLD Foredom Right Angle (RA) Handpieces 1/8 shank burrs

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Mastermind

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On the third port, the head started unscrewing from the shank. Minor problem. I took it apart, added a little blue loctite, and tightened it up good and tight. Added my favorite heat shrink tubing, and back to work.

Seems like a fine tool so far.

20220205_163317.jpg
 
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Mastermind

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After doing a couple of 372 jugs....

It doesn't turn as fast as an MC182, so its slower to do the uppers with. Of course, if I never used an MC182, I wouldn't know this.

It gets pretty warm after raising several ports....but not too bad.

The head is quite a lot bigger too. So it's not gonna be a good fit in a small jug like an MS201....

But.....this is 100.00 tool and I'm comparing it to a 470.00 tool.

I'd say they are well worth what Shaun is selling them for....and more actually.
 

srcarr52

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After doing a couple of 372 jugs....

It doesn't turn as fast as an MC182, so its slower to do the uppers with. Of course, if I never used an MC182, I wouldn't know this.

It gets pretty warm after raising several ports....but not too bad.

The head is quite a lot bigger too. So it's not gonna be a good fit in a small jug like an MS201....

But.....this is 100.00 tool and I'm comparing it to a 470.00 tool.

I'd say they are well worth what Shaun is selling them for....and more actually.

You can grind on the head and round the corners to gain a little clearance for smaller jugs if you want. It’s plenty thick to support the bearings.

I didn’t think about the speed but yes, it’s not a 1:1 ratio head the way the gears are. I bet the gears are over double the size of the 182’s.

Thanks for the tip of the head unscrewing. I’ll loctite the next ones.

What’s your fav heat shrink?
 

srcarr52

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Here is my personal one that I rounded the corners and buffed up the head of to make it a tiny bit smaller.

957c6fc68eaa6592fc6d11b396d7ac40.jpg
 

Canadian farm boy

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I got one of these from Shaun and for the price they are excellent. I’ve used it on several cylinder’s now and haven’t had any issues.

@srcarr52
I haven’t looked real close yet but is there any reason why we couldn’t drill out the back of the head to allow the shank of the burrs to protrude out the backside like they can with the 182?
 

srcarr52

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I got one of these from Shaun and for the price they are excellent. I’ve used it on several cylinder’s now and haven’t had any issues.

@srcarr52
I haven’t looked real close yet but is there any reason why we couldn’t drill out the back of the head to allow the shank of the burrs to protrude out the backside like they can with the 182?

I just cut a little off the burr shank, I do it even with the 182MC so I don't snag it on stuff.

I'll take one of mine apart to see if there is any reason why you can't, it will probably let it's grease our but maybe they left the bearing seal in that side?
 

srcarr52

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I use mine for beveling mostly. Saves wear and tear on tools that cost 4x as much.

They fit the bill for a cheap entry level tool for someone who want to do 10-20 saws a year. But it seems it has a place for someone who's doing that in a month!

Shaun, didn't you make a tool for disassembling the MC182?

Yes, it's a modified socket. I think I put the specs on my thread of rebuilding them for the tool and bearings.
 

Mastermind

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They fit the bill for a cheap entry level tool for someone who want to do 10-20 saws a year. But it seems it has a place for someone who's doing that in a month!



Yes, it's a modified socket. I think I put the specs on my thread of rebuilding them for the tool and bearings.


The only "gripe" I have about this right angle handpiece is that it drives the bit too slow. If I'd not been using an MC182 for over a decade, I probably wouldn't be aware of this at all. So it's really a non issue for anyone who needs a right angle.

I need to replace the bearings in one of my 182s. It's my oldest one....and didn't get rebuilt when the last two were sent in.
 

wcorey

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I haven’t looked real close yet but is there any reason why we couldn’t drill out the back of the head to allow the shank of the burrs to protrude out the backside like they can with the 182?

You can easily but the bearings are shielded as opposed to sealed so it will to some degree expose it to extra potential contamination. That said, the front bearing is also only shielded and completely exposed on the open end so would likely fail way before the much less vulnerable rear one.
<Edit>I omitted to add that the rear bearing has a 4mm id so a 3mm hole through the collet carrier shaft doesn't leave a lot of wall thickness, doesn't take a large percentage of the overall load but only a 15-20 thou wall may be pushing it...

My steel/welded head one was very noisy and vibrating right out of the box and I finally got around to taking it apart to see what was up, turned out to be the front bearing. I was hoping it was just contamination but after removing the shields and cleaning it out, no luck, its just bad.

Front bearing is a 1407zz which crosses to a more common 687 so for $15 I can get 8 of them on amazon and figure might as well get sealed ones while I'm at it.
Rear is a much smaller 940zz.

I'm thinking it may not be a good idea to run these units in reverse with left hand burrs because the driven gear is threaded on and would likely back off and put a lot of pressure against the drive gear.

rt agl head disassembled.JPG
 
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frc71

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Here is my personal one that I rounded the corners and buffed up the head of to make it a tiny bit smaller.

957c6fc68eaa6592fc6d11b396d7ac40.jpg
How do I contact you to buy one of these or a contra angle handpiece for my Foredom motor?
 

frc71

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Shawn - so are you saying that your current website "Angled Rotary Porting Handpiece Kit" is a much more robust (and better) handpiece kit for $250 than your previous china RA's at $110? Can you elaborate a bit more on the price vs quality/durability of these handpieces? Thank you. I see that you just sold out so any more coming?
 

srcarr52

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Shawn - so are you saying that your current website "Angled Rotary Porting Handpiece Kit" is a much more robust (and better) handpiece kit for $250 than your previous china RA's at $110? Can you elaborate a bit more on the price vs quality/durability of these handpieces? Thank you. I see that you just sold out so any more coming?

The contra angle handpiece better fits a gap in the market as it's smaller and able to get into small chainsaw cylinders better than other handpieces available on the market, plus it can do larger saws if you are not doing a large volume of them. Even if someone has other RA handpieces the one I make would still be useful to them. Since I make the adapters I don't have to deal with quality issues that I was having with imported ones. The heads are light duty but they are cheap enough to be disposable (~$17), you should never have a problem with the adapter I make (if you do contact me and I'll replace/repair it for free). They are a 1:1 ratio head so they spin faster than the 182MC with a ratio of 4:3.

The china RA in this thread is a bit larger than than the industry standard CC 182MC and is subsequently more cumbersome to use. It has a larger gear reduction 0f 2:1 which hinders it's performance and I was seeing many quality issues with them. If you get a good one they are pretty durable, maybe the bearings will eventually go but they are replicable, but I've had them come missing a tooth on the ring gear.

Since the china ones are available elsewhere I decided not to import and modify any more as the quality issues where eating into any profits I could make. Also interest in them dried up as most everyone who was dabbling in porting got one. If there is a large interest in them I could try my luck with them again but I would like to avoid sitting on inventory of these.

Yes, I just sold out on the contra angles on my website. I have plenty of the handpieces made, I'm waiting on more of the carbide burrs to complete the kits. I will be another 2-3 weeks for my custom order to be completed.
 
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