Small right angle (RA) porting handpieces for Foredom motors.

[BGE541]

Price for a set up shipped? Thanks!

 

[srcarr52]

Price for a set up shipped? Thanks!

It’s in the first post.

 

[srcarr52]

Anyone who has purchased one of these handpieces feel free to leave some feedback. Anyone have anything to say about the burr length, should I change them?

 

[farminkarman]

Anyone who has purchased one of these handpieces feel free to leave some feedback. Anyone have anything to say about the burr length, should I change them?

I really like mine so far. I have only ported three saws since getting it. I haven't found a need thus far to have a different burr length.

 

[Crocky28]

I’m very impressed with mine. I’ve found the burr lengths spot on so far. I actually prefer it to my 90. I feel the contra angle is better to work with. Just a personal preference I suppose.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[buckin-wood]

So far so good here. I've touched up a cross 660 and working on a 7900 at the moment. Length seem good. A small ball burr might be handy. In full disclosure I'm new to playing with 2 stroke cylinders, I'm used to cavernous 4v 351c ports. I'm still ironing out technique and what works where.

I did bind the burr in a 7900 upper and the contra head gears survived. Not sure how many times I can get away with that.

Curious where you get that thick heat shrink you use on the handpiece.

 

[srcarr52]

So far so good here. I've touched up a cross 660 and working on a 7900 at the moment. Length seem good. A small ball burr might be handy. In full disclosure I'm new to playing with 2 stroke cylinders, I'm used to cavernous 4v 351c ports. I'm still ironing out technique and what works where.

I did bind the burr in a 7900 upper and the contra head gears survived. Not sure how many times I can get away with that.

Curious where you get that thick heat shrink you use on the handpiece.

I'm glad you are having success. Yes, stuffing a burr usually tears up the head. Good news is that the heads are cheap. The heads I provide are some of the toughest I could find.

I've never been a fan of using ball burrs on a port wall as they are hard to create a flat surface with, I've found the egg shape help to maintain a flat surface. I do like to use balls for tunneling, like around a valve guide or pushing the skinny port edge wall towards the exhaust under the transfer bridge. In short a ball is good for running up and down the port in a small area or in a corner, the egg shape is better for going from side to side of the port and then moving up/down the port for your next pass.

The heat shrink is some generic 3:1 ratio, dual wall (adhesive lined), 3/4". I got it off ebay for around $1.20 a foot.

 

[Ronie]

.

 

[srcarr52]

I use the small latch burrs with my dental RA because it makes the head last a lot longer but it takes a lot longer to do the transfers.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283504718637

View attachment 323758

This is why I had custom burrs made that are 3/16" diameter. 1/4" burrs tear up the heads faster.

 

[Ronie]

This is why I had custom burrs made that are 3/16" diameter. 1/4" burrs tear up the heads fast.

When I first got mine I made up 1/4" burrs and as soon as it took a good bite it would strip the head.

 

[srcarr52]

When I first got mine I made up 1/4" burrs and as soon as it took a good bite it would strip the head.

Depending on the head latch style some tear up the drive flat inside the cartridge pretty quickly with a 1/4" burr. The normal push button that has a sort of iris mechanism to hold the groove does not last long since the drive flat is short and strips easy.

I use and supply the YAD style head which have a longer drive flat and a guillotine style groove mechanism. There is also one style which has a flip over tang to locate the groove which is super sturdy but I have not been able to find a reliable supplier of those at a decent price. Both of these styles can deal with 1/4" burrs and they'll last a decent amount of time, the problem is it's easy to stuff a 1/4" burr in the back of the port and if you do you'll strip the gears of these styles. With the 3/16" burr is can suffer a few stuffings without stripping as it can generate enough torque to keep the burr from stopping instantly.

 

[David Young]

Shaun do you have some ready to ship?

 

[srcarr52]

Shaun do you have some ready to ship?

I have 1 kit ready to ship.

 

[AKJonsereds]

Finally got to try mine out today. I personally think the shape of the burr is perfect for transfers and the size and angles work great. If a round burr is required, I did see some with the proper latch on eBay. I will be using the egg shape more often from now on.

I did have the head loosen initially and worried I had stripped it out extremely fast… but, a little twist fixed it up.

These are excellent tools and I look forward to using it a long time.

Thanks again Shaun! I definitely recommend everyone get one.

 

[Kevinf1]

Do you have any more available?

 

[srcarr52]

Do you have any more available?

Not at the moment. I plan on making more but I don’t know when I’ll have time.

 

[Kevinf1]

Not at the moment. I plan on making more but I don’t know when I’ll have time.

Okay thanks

 

[Crocky28]

Been using mine with the dental burrs for these tiny CS2511 cylinders. Perfect for it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[srcarr52]

View attachment 331439
Been using mine with the dental burrs for these tiny CS2511 cylinders. Perfect for it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow, that is a tiny cylinder!

 

[Crocky28]

Wow, that is a tiny cylinder!

For scale. That’s it next to a 372 cylinder. The transfer ports are ridiculously small. Doesn’t take long to port it though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk