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Fixing hole in tank

Junk Meister

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All of them, I wouldn't have listed them otherwise. @srcarr52 welded countless chainsaws cases and cylinders both saving them from the scrap heap.
@srcarr52 @tree monkey @dall
just a few off the top of my head around here besides all the welding shops out there...
You Should go a bit farther.. Do a search on @srcarr52 and others. Look for some pics of above and beyond Quality Welding and Machine work. There are some impressive posts right here on OPE
 

beaglebriar

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As far as drilling and tapping it- I am not saying it wouldnt work, but you have to take into consideration how thick that metal is- ist it even thick enough to get even two full threads in it, and pipe threads are spaced apart bigger and although there are straight pipe threads most are on a taper. If I was dead set on going the drill & tap route ( which I would not do personally ) I wild use the smallest diameter with a fine thread pitch to get the most threads in there. Just my 2 cents / opinion.
Have you ever actually looked at 1/8” pipe thread? It’s very fine.
 

fredx

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I got one of those Card charts in my tool box somewhere- think its made by starrett, its probably in the drawer with the tap & dies ,drill bits
 

jacktheripper

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I’m leaning pretty heavily toward just putting a nut and bolt in with a grommet or rubber washers to seal it. I can access the hole through the gas hole in the top with long needle nose. With a rounded head screw, it wouldn’t really stick out too much on the bottom. JB weld with fuel tank sealer would be great, but that sealer is so dang expensive.
 

Junk Meister

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Some shelving like you would see in a parts room (Usually gray) used a 1/4"NC stove bolt with a flat screw driver slot and the head is fairly thin/low profile and a larger diameter stove bolt head on them. If you got the tank clean and a way to get the machine bolt started in the nut (Nut inside the tank) then get your JB weld smeared where it needs to be and tighten it up and be sure you see the JB ooze out all around the head. You might be able to tack (Not weld solid) a length of wire or rod to the nut and then break the weld after all is tight and JB is cured. Good luck.
You might find a shouldered nut with locking face I can't think of what they are called, and it wouldn't spin as you tighten the stove bolt. Similar to your Idea in last post but bolt going up and in and JB for permanent instead of rubber washer,
 
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Maintenance Chief

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I’m leaning pretty heavily toward just putting a nut and bolt in with a grommet or rubber washers to seal it. I can access the hole through the gas hole in the top with long needle nose. With a rounded head screw, it wouldn’t really stick out too much on the bottom. JB weld with fuel tank sealer would be great, but that sealer is so dang expensive.
Jbweld is what I've used on a dozen mag tanks, the sealer is a little $$ but the can I bought is probably gonna last me my lifetime! Just cut it with acetone. Screenshot_20260104_112930_Chrome.jpg
 
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