First Time Splitting a Case

[TheDarkLordChinChin]

Okay, so I got the crank shaft out, but the bearings and oil seals came with it. My splitting tool did not fit right down over the connecting rod like it shuld have and could not hold the bearings in. How do I get the bearings and oil seal off the shaft now?
Husqvarna 254, an old one.

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

Okay, so I got the crank shaft out, but the bearings and oil seals came with it. My splitting tool did not fit right down over the connecting rod like it shuld have and could not hold the bearings in. How do I get the bearings and oil seal off the shaft now?
Husqvarna 254, an old one.

View attachment 391800

Two legged puller?

 

[Duce]

Okay, so I got the crank shaft out, but the bearings and oil seals came with it. My splitting tool did not fit right down over the connecting rod like it shuld have and could not hold the bearings in. How do I get the bearings and oil seal off the shaft now?
Husqvarna 254, an old one.

View attachment 391800

Take it you are replacing bearing. Clamp outside of bearing in a vise and tap out crank using a punch, do not hit ends of crank with a hammer. Use a larger pointed punch that will rest in dimples at crank ends.

 

[TheDarkLordChinChin]

Two legged puller?

Yes, genuine Husqvarna one.

Take it you are replacing bearing. Clamp outside of bearing in a vise and tap out crank using a punch, do not hit ends of crank with a hammer. Use a larger pointed punch that will rest in dimples at crank ends.

I tried that but it just got pushed out of the vise. Maybe I will try it again.

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

Yes, genuine Husqvarna one.

I tried that but it just got pushed out of the vise. Maybe I will try it again.

As to the crank and it's bearings.

The 357 stuffers defeat using a conventional two legged puller as there is no room between the bearing and the stuffer for the 'legs' of my type puller. I'm sure there are special bearing removal tools available, but I didn't have one, and didn't want to over invest or wait.

A piece of 3mm/ 1/8" scrap angle iron got an angle grinder relief rudely cut in to it and voila, bearings removed. I will reduce the width of the adapter before next use as it did deflect a little.

View attachment 326636 View attachment 326637

This is what I meant by a Two Legged bearing puller. The angle iron attachment was only necessary because the crank was full circle.
Normally the 'hook' on the legs can just grab under the bearing and turning the centre thread just winds the bearing up and off.

 

[Outback]

You might want to consider freezing it and hitting the bearings with a propane torch. I've had stubborn ones fall off that way.

I've also just tapped them off from the outside race with a punch from the connecting rod side I believe. If your not trying to save a bearing which I almost never do that works too. just set either end of the crank on a piece of wood.

 

[TheDarkLordChinChin]

This is what I meant by a Two Legged bearing puller. The angle iron attachment was only necessary because the crank was full circle.
Normally the 'hook' on the legs can just grab under the bearing and turning the centre thread just winds the bearing up and off.

Great idea!

 

[beaglebriar]

I got one of these from Amazon. It works well. Bearing separator pinched in a vise works too ...

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Yep, grab the bearing in a vice and tap the crank out. Put the nut on the crank flush so you don’t damage anything. When you come to re-assemble, if you plan on doing saws in the future, consider Matty-o’s crank puller tools. I have used them for more engine rebuilds than I care to remember and they work great.

 

[trooney]

Yep, grab the bearing in a vice and tap the crank out. Put the nut on the crank flush so you don’t damage anything. When you come to re-assemble, if you plan on doing saws in the future, consider Matty-o’s crank puller tools. I have used them for more engine rebuilds than I care to remember and they work great. View attachment 391870

I agree, they work great without breaking the bank.

 

[GMB74]

Use a bearing splitter.
Wedge it between the bearing and crank.
Use the 2- jaw puller pictured above, or a puller that threads into the holes in the splitter, bearing on the end of the crank.
Set it up and throw the whole assembly in the freezer for a couple of hours or overnight, pull it out and heat the bearing with a propane torch or heat gun.
It should practically fall apart.
You can get a cheap kit from Harbor Freight or a better quality kit from a name-brand tool company.
Either will work.

 

[beaglebriar]

^^^^ That's my go to when all else fails...as it did yesterday. These crank stuffers are a pita. I start by pinching the bearing separator in the vise to get it seated between the bearing and crank. Then tighten the nuts lightly and install the puller.

 

[Al Smith]

There's a trick to every thing .Try freezing the whole assembly.Then often a tap on piece of hardwood ,,bench will knock it off .If not take a torch and circle the iinner race a very short time then try it .

 

[Outback]

Fire and ice isn't just for HBO.

 

[Hulpio]

Sometimes I have used 2 wedges 180deg apart. Some small axes are good.
First one lousy night in a - 20C freezer for the crank, next morning prepare a teapot of boiling water. Have 2 axes 2 hammers ready. Then crank out from the freezer.
If you have suitable wedges you can hammer them in for creating tension.
Pour boiling water to bearing until it moves, be carefull because wedges can fall. Then the other side. In my experience if it moves a little it will move more and you are the winner.
If I'm very busy I just take my trustworthy 125mm angle grinder and get rid of outer race, cage and BEARING balls.
Grinding the inner race is clocksmiths job like taking one for the hangover. You grind it to approx 90% until it is weak enough to be wedged? away with screwdriver or something.
This method we used 35-40yrs back for moped cranks.

 

[Al Smith]

Just as a reminder the freeze/heat method is exactly what Stihl and Partner recommend . Right from the "book ". The pic shown are the jacobs taper wedges used for parting drill chucks from the adapters which would work in some cases .I have them from MT 2 to MT 4 in my shop .

 

[drf256]

BTW, you gotta pull that oiler gear off before the bearing. I use a 1/2-3/4 NPT reducer. Should thread right onto it, then pull it off with your 2 jaw.

 

[Hulpio]

Doesn't is come out with the bearing anyway? That is what happened when I pulled out Jonsered 535 bearings.
Crank was - 20C and I just heated bearing etc using boiling water.

 

[drf256]

Youre increasing the amount of force needed for no good reason. Why pull off together. More chance of popping the outer bearing race off the inner that way, and then pulling just the inner race off the crank gets hairy. Ask me how I know.

 

[Hulpio]

For sure plain inner race is tricky. Just yesterday I could not fit my two leg puller to something tiny like MS180 crank bearing. Just took angle grinder and with steady hand took bearings away, piece by piece. If oiler gear is brass it actually expands a lot when heated so it came out very easy. But these all are individual cases and just have to use workmanship.