Husqvarna 350 bearings

[JohnnyBlade]

So I'm building a Husky 350 clammy for a buddy and the crank seals r leaking. The bearings seem smooth and fairly tight. The saw doesn't show much wear, just old from 03. So the rubber needs replaced but the bearings seem fine. I'll prob just buy new bearings and seal pre assembled but was curious if anyone has ever taken the time to just change/swap seals on these bearings. Is there a special tool to separate them? A shade tree trick? Any I've built in the past I've just got the pre-made bearing seal combos so there was no issues. But my curiosity is getting the better of me

 

[GMB74]

I got to fooling around with some Husqvarna 36-41-136-141-142 saws and their Poulan cousins this summer. They have the same type bearing/seal setup. I found a piece of pipe that the bearing would just slide in to but the seal would not. I actually had to grind out the ID slightly for this to work. I then cut off a 1/2" bolt and rounded the end slightly to help it enter the seal. Tap or press the bolt, pops right apart . To reassemble I use a vise. Use a socket to push against the seal, keep everything square and the bearings will slide right in with little resistance.
The 350 uses different part number seal/bearings, but you should be able to fabricate something similar.

 

[GMB74]

If you are going to try aftermarket seals, I suggest trying HL supply.
The cheapie seals on Ebay/amazon have a rounded edge that may not seal on the cylinder.
The Farmertec ones from HLS have a sharp edge like the OEM ones and worked best for me.

 

[JohnnyBlade]

I got to fooling around with some Husqvarna 36-41-136-141-142 saws and their Poulan cousins this summer. They have the same type bearing/seal setup. I found a piece of pipe that the bearing would just slide in to but the seal would not. I actually had to grind out the ID slightly for this to work. I then cut off a 1/2" bolt and rounded the end slightly to help it enter the seal. Tap or press the bolt, pops right apart . To reassemble I use a vise. Use a socket to push against the seal, keep everything square and the bearings will slide right in with little resistance.
The 350 uses different part number seal/bearings, but you should be able to fabricate something similar.

Very nice! Yes I've done the 36/136 and a 141/2 and it's the same concept with the bearings and seals. I'm sure I can find enough in the shop to make it work with the way you have described. I'm guessing, maybe husqvarna sells tools to replicate ur process? Or do they have a different way? Either way your design is nice and simple. I like that. Much appreciated you took the time to show ur work! Thanks!