562xp Salvage

[Spike60]

Only new carbs (blank), need to be programed to whatever coil is in the saw. The existing carb therefore should already be programmed for the coil. Also if replacing a coil with a different one, it's best to reprogram the carb, even though it will run without doing so. That's why a drop down menu allows for 5 or 6 coil options.

Those coils very rarely fail to a "no spark" condition, I'd double check everything again. Did you clean that saw? I don't see any sawdust in there. None in the coil bolts. Wonder if it had been out of the the saw.

Also, I'm not sure the the carb can completely kill the spark anyway. Never looked into it, but I suspect the flywheel might generate a spark regardless. Only test I can think of is to unplug the carb in a known good saw and see if it sparks.

 

[eric4]

I tried a couple different gap distances from the flywheel. From as thin as two pieces of letter paper, to a doubled up business card.

The saw is clean because I put a new bottom end on, but I wasn't getting spark before the rebuild either...

I'll tear into it again and clean the electrical contacts between the coil and the carb

 

[Motorka]

Workshop manual

 

[hacskaroly]

Workshop manual

Awesome, thanks!! Very helpful!!

 

[pbillyi69]

there was a post on another thread about the tiny contacts in the plastic plug not mating correctly causing a problem just like this. one of the small pins got bent over when the plug halves were pushed together and it didnt run.

 

[Bob95065]

I went through this last year. Saw held vacuum and pressure then suffered lean seizure. You can read the tale of woe here: 562 story

 

[Bob95065]

The short story is the flywheel bearing cage failed and only caused an air leak while running and under load. The carburetor threw as much gas as it could at it and it overheated. I'm considering options now.

 

[pbillyi69]

that'd piss me off

 

[pbillyi69]

why did it overheat and more import how the hell are you supposed to use a saw that gets hot enough to melt the plastic bearing cage......is there some design change/flaw that traps heat or am i missing something. I know things fail when being abused and things get worn out. but how and why does a saw get so hot on the cool side of the saw?

 

[Bob95065]

why did it overheat and more import how the hell are you supposed to use a saw that gets hot enough to melt the plastic bearing cage......is there some design change/flaw that traps heat or am i missing something. I know things fail when being abused and things get worn out. but how and why does a saw get so hot on the cool side of the saw?

I got this saw with a scored piston not running. I'm reporting what I found so I really don't know the root cause of this problem.

 

[eric4]

This saw is startin' to frustrate me a bit! Cleaned out the electrical contacts of the plugs, and double checked everything was plugged in properly.

Checked spark again, and no luck.

Pulled on it a bunch, and actually got it to fire off a few pops, but then no luck after that. Maybe i'm getting really weak spark? The plug is brand new...

 

[hacskaroly]

Pulled on it a bunch, and actually got it to fire off a few pops

Well, that's good that you do have some spark if it pops. Is your spark plug at a good gap? I try to shoot for .027 on mine. Might shoot a little WD-40 into the carb and see if it will do a little more than pop with that at least. I wonder if your impulse is pulling fuel into the carb?

 

[eric4]

I double checked my spark gap and it's proper at .025 with a new plug. Maybe this new NGK is bad? I can't dig up the original spark plug, but I think my Makita ea4300 uses the same type...I'll throw that in tomorrow and give her a crank.

Ignition gap at .015

Seemed like a freak spark or something.... since pulling another 30 times yielded nothing. This was after giving the saw some breaks to let any fuel evap from the chamber. Also, no spark is showing when grounding the plug on the cyl head and pulling the cord still.

 

[SimonHS]

I double checked my spark gap and it's proper at .025 with a new plug. Maybe this new NGK is bad? I can't dig up the original spark plug, but I think my Makita ea4300 uses the same type...I'll throw that in tomorrow and give her a crank.

Ignition gap at .015

Seemed like a freak spark or something.... since pulling another 30 times yielded nothing. This was after giving the saw some breaks to let any fuel evap from the chamber. Also, no spark is showing when grounding the plug on the cyl head and pulling the cord still.

Could be a break in the conductor inside the HT lead? Or where the spring clip inside the spark plug cap attaches to the HT lead. I had a Stihl MS261 with that problem. The break on that one was intermittent and it sparked sometimes and then cut out.

 

[eric4]

More wonderful head-scratchers on this damn 562...

I checked the spring clip for the plug, and it looked good. Decided I'd give it a pull, and got a pop! Pull it again any my flywheel spins freely - I sheared off the key. So I line it up without the key, and get another prime pop, and then the flywheel comes loose. I torqued it down even harder this time, and give it a pull, and the recoil breaks!

How high of compression is this saw supposed to be? It seems so high that it wants to yank the rope right from my hand... I only have a decomp plug in it, because the old valve was leaking. Might need to find a working valve to keep from destroying more parts


How lucky can a feller be?

 

[hacskaroly]

How high of compression is this saw supposed to be? It seems so high that it wants to yank the rope right from my hand...

The one I am working on is the same way, has some serious compression, more so than a 372 and 376 I have worked on. Would imagine it is similar to a 2100... I took it apart to make sure there wasn't anything in the cylinder that might have been causing issues...none, very clean inside. Bizarre issue.

 

[eric4]

I straightened out the recoil, and found a decomp valve. Got a pop but then nothing... I am officially frustrated as hell on this saw. hah

Getting to the point where I might disassemble my cylinder as well, just to make sure the piston is facing the right direction, since I haven't a clue on what to diagnose next...

 

[eric4]

The saw is back to getting spark, and actually 'ran' for about 5 or six cycles before puttering out... Maybe the timing is off due to the sheared key on the flywheel? I tried to line it back up, but can't get past a few pops...

 

[eric4]

Just installed a new carb kit, and she's still not firing up, or giving any indication of such...

Totally stumped on this saw. Does anyone have any insight?

Cheers.

 

[Eakf]

How are you trying to start it?

These saws seem to flood super easy when cold and not want to start if you rip on it like you would on an older saw.

What seems to work for me is to put the saw on choke, 2-3 pulls will usually pop. Any more on choke and it'll flood. Then move to fast idle, and it should start with 1-2 pulls.

If flooded, you'll probably need to carefully start it with the throttle wide open, or come back to it in a little while.

If there isn't spark, have you checked continuity of the switch in the stop position?