First time porter, want to do my 036 - numbers for a mild build?

[kielbasa]

Hi guys, a novice local porter is going to hold my hand while I attempt my first saw.
I'll start with dialing the squish to ~.020". I won't be machining the head, just the cylinder base.
He mentioned 1 to 2 degrees on the exhaust, open the lowers as much as possible and take the intake up 10 degrees or so. And then do tonsils/ears.
All I want is a saw that has more nut than stock. I mentioned I lean on my saws and prefer low end power vs high rpm screamer that snuffs the chain as soon as I lean into it. He then mentioned possibly not even raising the exhaust then.
Do these numbers seem reasonable? I completely understand if nobody wants to divulge their recipes - am just looking for a little bit of guidance - Thanks for any info!

 

[Wonkydonkey]

There are a few threads on the 036

what 036 you got, you can put some pics up. What carb is on it.

all I did with mine was a bgd, checked the squish, slightly enlarged the int & exhaust.

And I tried 20thou off the key, then went 30thou and saw a big improvement

and I change the exhaust as we have a peashooter on the 036 in the uk, I tickled the new exhaust a bit, enlarged the outlet.

i will find @Ronie thread where I added my numbers

 

[Wonkydonkey]

here it is, your see there’s a few links in the thread.

036 porting

 

[Ronie]

There are a few threads on the 036

what 036 you got, you can put some pics up. What carb is on it.

all I did with mine was a bgd, checked the squish, slightly enlarged the int & exhaust.

And I tried 20thou off the key, then went 30thou and saw a big improvement

and I change the exhaust as we have a peashooter on the 036 in the uk, I tickled the new exhaust a bit, enlarged the outlet.

i will find @Ronie thread where I added my numbers

I think this is the thread your talking about.

https://opeforum.com/threads/036-porting.25685/

 

[Ronie]

I like how mine turned out with these numbers,

EX 105
TR 125
IN 81 CURVED UP TO 78 because of the v shape

 

[Wonkydonkey]

@kielbasa . I really don’t think you need to do those tonsil/ears, if I understand you correctly

i believe it’s been said it’s a tinpony thing

 

[Stump Shot]

Hello and good to see your interest in your saw. Can't honestly say I would do any of that for making grunt.
He's right, don't raise the exhaust it will take away torque.
Your man has his plan, either let him roll with it or diy, he's gonna get pissed if second guessed at every turn.

 

[Stump Shot]

@kielbasa . I really don’t think you need to do those tonsil/ears, if I understand you correctly

i believe it’s been said it’s a tinpony thing

All that accomplishes is to help direct raw fuel into the middle of the air stream to be re-atomized.
It all depends on the intake, some are small enough to take being enlarged in this manor, some are not and some are already too big from the factory, in which case the latter two, could be detrimental towards making power over the negligible benefit gained as the rotating assembly will pretty much take care of any fuel droplets entering the case. A strong air signal for the carburetor is important as well, so these things have to be weighed out first before being implemented across the board.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I think @Stump Shot is right..

If you read the threads & watch the vids, you can get your timing # and go from there.

The peashooter exhaust thread Then you will know what I mean..

036 Pea shooter muffler

 

[huskihl]

Back away from the yootoobs

 

[kielbasa]

ok, went and checked squish - i get measurements all falling between .027 and .030".......
i also noticed it has a Zama carburetor - replace with Walbro?
I'll be baselining this saw all stock before the mods.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

What thickness solder did you use to get the measurements,

It’s important to get a correct squish measurement.

 

[kielbasa]

i used two different sizes, .050 and .031.....the 50 thou solder gave me ~29-30 thou reading and the 31 thou solder gave me ~27-29....I made two L shaped pieces going in thru plug hole parallel with wristpin (opposing sides of piston) to compensate for rocking of the piston....this method seems hokey to me at best, but those were the results.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I'm wondering, if the carbon on the piston is giving you a smaller reading than there actually is

I had this once.. and once I,d cleaned the top of the piston and cylinder, it was a true reading. But I can’t see your saw

hopefully you’ve read ronie's thread . And followed those other links in his thread…ie Kevin’s @huskihl you should see that 104-ish on the exhaust is good etc. and watch those vids.

I,d be keen to see a few pic's of your saw as I’m sure a few other will

 

[Redfin]

open the lowers as much as possible

This usually is completely unnecessary and could possibly degrade performance.

 

[drf256]

What tonsil?

The 48mm jugs never had the intake ring retainer aka “tonsil” or “uvula”.

Like Steve says above, if you make an intake too big you can take away from a saw. I smaller intake makes better vac signal to the carb, so when you goose it it responds betterer. Take a good look at the bore of the intake boot. Why would you make a huge intake port for it? I tried a larger 038 boot on an 036 with a matching intake port and the saw lost power.

For a torque saw, you need some more compression. If you can cut the base, see if you can use an old piston and sandpaper, or your mandrel, to clean up the squishband enough to make it square. Get you squish to 18-22.

Leave intake port stock, DO NOT open the lowers at all. Go with 103 ex and 125 uppers. Leave the Zama carb-there isn’t a Walbro. The Zama carb is fine, especially the older Hong Kong or Jap ones. I have 6-7 Tilly 43b’s and don’t find they run different from the Zama at all (have one on my own 036).

Open that muffler, add an outlet on the starter side. Advance the timing .025 off the key.

 

[Stump Shot]

What tonsil?

The 48mm jugs never had the intake ring retainer aka “tonsil” or “uvula”.

Leave the Zama carb-there isn’t a Walbro. The Zama carb is fine, especially the older Hong Kong or Jap ones. I have 6-7 Tilly 43b’s and don’t find they run different from the Zama at all (have one on my own 036).

He's talking about grinding a tonsil in aka "Mickey Mouse ears" as has been said around here.

The NEW Tillotson HE-20A replacement series carburetor is a good option for the ZAMA, while I too don't believe it to make the saw any stronger, it is however much more user friendly to use for things like the choke setting all the way and is not as touchy tuning it in, also has a good idle circuit that leaves the saw to be a smooth runner.
Otherwise yes the ZAMA can be just fine and I would just freshen it up unless being problematic. Also it may be hard to acquire one right now in the "new" normal. https://www.hlsproparts.com/product-p/he-20a.htm

 

[Michpatriot]

Kielbasa, you have advice here from the several of best in the business for 036\034 porting....its easy to take material from the wrong place and get the opposite effect you set out to achieve.. New jugs aren't cheap..do not rush in. This saw was built by a man in this thread you created

 

[cuinrearview]

Kielbasa, you have advice here from the several of best in the business for 036\034 porting....its easy to take material from the wrong place and get the opposite effect you set out to achieve.. New jugs aren't cheap..do not rush in. This saw was built by a man in this thread you created

Oh *s-word he got a chainsaw? Le Pays Maudit is doomed!

 

[kielbasa]

thanks for all the helpful advice!!!!!!!!!! although my head is spinning now from different "recipes", i'll take some time to keep reading and let this info digest....