High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

ECHO Echo, Echo, Echo

mainer_in_ak

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Forgot to add: these 6700's and cs 8000's will do any type of work that the modern, more expensive saws can do. Oftentimes at 1/4 the price.

Minor changes, the 6700 will cut identically to a stihl 044.

Minor changes on the cs 8000, it will out-cut all modern stock 70 cc fodder.

The changes are so simple, not even worth sending off for port work.

Regardless of all the typical complaints of weight or cut-speed from the typical echo bashers who have no clue what these saws are, they aren't heavy or slow.

Parts availability and commonly available crank bearings (no proprietary crank bearing bllsht), never any back orders on parts, why wouldn't a cutter maintain a small fleet of these sleepers?!

An example on the cs 8000/800p:
One of the most foolish things would be wasting a bunch of time porting the saw, only to breath through an insufficient carburetor and flapper filter.

The cs 680 filter setup is a direct bolt swap to the CS 8000. The HDA 45 carb is also a direct bolt swap and is substantially larger. The HDA 45 are as cheap as a Chinese aftermarket carb! I have a pile of em.
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FergusonTO35

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That's the going rate on these 6700's and cs 8000's are usually $300-$400

Lotta guys are into tinkering with the clone saws. My "cheap saw" fix has always been these older echos with quality made in japan parts availability from over a dozen online vendors.

This 100%!!
 

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Maintenance Chief

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STOVE

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Did a carb retune today on my CS-400, still not thrilled with it. Cannot recall what happened to have the low jet out of whack in the first place.

Where does everyone have their H and L at on the 400 after MM.

Anything else that can be done to these? Timing advance? I am considering going down to a 16” bar on mine.
 

FergusonTO35

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16" bar with good semi-chisel is perfect for the 400, it's what both of mine wear. My saws are tuned a bit fatter than factory setting, maybe each screw 1/4 a turn out more. I gave my newer one some exercise on Saturday in fact. I noticed the muffler was wet at first, so I gradually turned both screws in until it dried up. Runs great now. The only mods I've done to mine are cat delete and de-limit the carb. The 400 is never going to win any races but is very reliable and does everything I would expect a 40cc saw to do so I'm happy with them.
 
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mainer_in_ak

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Did a carb retune today on my CS-400, still not thrilled with it. Cannot recall what happened to have the low jet out of whack in the first place.

Where does everyone have their H and L at on the 400 after MM.

Anything else that can be done to these? Timing advance? I am considering going down to a 16” bar on mine.
Something is wrong with the saw. Typically, a cs 400 with the muffler opened up is one of those under dogs that u can bury an 18 inch bar in hardwoods.
 

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Something is wrong with the saw. Typically, a cs 400 with the muffler opened up is one of those under dogs that u can bury an 18 inch bar in hardwoods.
It messed with the low jet a while back but I can’t recall why. It is back running well after my retune this morning.

Was bogging on the throttle pulls instead of being snappy.
 

FergusonTO35

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The 400, and Echoes in general, don't like to run incredibly rich. There comes a point pretty quickly where you're just making fumes with no gain in performance. Even my ported CS-500P does best just a little richer than the service manual setting. Whereas it seems like Stihls and many old school saws are quite happy fogging it up like a choo choo train.
 

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After running the cs400 , I think the cat delet is almost mandatory!
I'd say that it runs very good for a 40cc saw , I'm running full chisel forester chain on an Oregon pro-bar . It definitely runs better than any stock ms180 I've run.
 

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The 400 is my favorite Echo saw of all. My biggest problem with the catalyst is all that extra heat right next to the cylinder. Its strange how some Echo saws have it and others don't.
 

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Ok guys, the clutch is catching at idle (3200 RPM) on my 500P but I can't figure out why. Any ideas here? This saw doesn't have many hours on it.

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Was anything wrapped around outside of the crankshaft? Was the oiler gear stiff on the crank? I don’t know that I’ve ever seen anything go wrong on them other than twine getting wrapped around the crank between the washer and the clutch drum.
 
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