ECHO Echo, Echo, Echo

[mainer_in_ak]

Forgot to add: these 6700's and cs 8000's will do any type of work that the modern, more expensive saws can do. Oftentimes at 1/4 the price.

Minor changes, the 6700 will cut identically to a stihl 044.

Minor changes on the cs 8000, it will out-cut all modern stock 70 cc fodder.

The changes are so simple, not even worth sending off for port work.

Regardless of all the typical complaints of weight or cut-speed from the typical echo bashers who have no clue what these saws are, they aren't heavy or slow.

Parts availability and commonly available crank bearings (no proprietary crank bearing bllsht), never any back orders on parts, why wouldn't a cutter maintain a small fleet of these sleepers?!

An example on the cs 8000/800p:
One of the most foolish things would be wasting a bunch of time porting the saw, only to breath through an insufficient carburetor and flapper filter.

The cs 680 filter setup is a direct bolt swap to the CS 8000. The HDA 45 carb is also a direct bolt swap and is substantially larger. The HDA 45 are as cheap as a Chinese aftermarket carb! I have a pile of em.

 

[FergusonTO35]

That's the going rate on these 6700's and cs 8000's are usually $300-$400

Lotta guys are into tinkering with the clone saws. My "cheap saw" fix has always been these older echos with quality made in japan parts availability from over a dozen online vendors.

This 100%!!

 

[mainer_in_ak]

Dang, you find some good deals up there!

Nother one for $225 shipped:

SOLD Post in thread 'Echo cs 6700'

Apr 20, 2025

@mainer_in_ak

Thanks whole bunches babycakes.

Basic fkn math:
I'd rather 4 of these 67 cc sleepers, than the price of 1 ms 400

• mainer_in_ak

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[Maintenance Chief]

Nother one for $225 shipped:

SOLD Post in thread 'Echo cs 6700'

Apr 20, 2025

@mainer_in_ak

Thanks whole bunches babycakes.

Basic fkn math:
I'd rather 4 of these 67 cc sleepers, than the price of 1 ms 400

• mainer_in_ak

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The great thing about "brand loyal " guys is that you really find the minutiae of fine tune the brand.
It really benefits the rest of us novices!

 

[STOVE]

Did a carb retune today on my CS-400, still not thrilled with it. Cannot recall what happened to have the low jet out of whack in the first place.

Where does everyone have their H and L at on the 400 after MM.

Anything else that can be done to these? Timing advance? I am considering going down to a 16” bar on mine.

 

[FergusonTO35]

16" bar with good semi-chisel is perfect for the 400, it's what both of mine wear. My saws are tuned a bit fatter than factory setting, maybe each screw 1/4 a turn out more. I gave my newer one some exercise on Saturday in fact. I noticed the muffler was wet at first, so I gradually turned both screws in until it dried up. Runs great now. The only mods I've done to mine are cat delete and de-limit the carb. The 400 is never going to win any races but is very reliable and does everything I would expect a 40cc saw to do so I'm happy with them.

 

[mainer_in_ak]

Did a carb retune today on my CS-400, still not thrilled with it. Cannot recall what happened to have the low jet out of whack in the first place.

Where does everyone have their H and L at on the 400 after MM.

Anything else that can be done to these? Timing advance? I am considering going down to a 16” bar on mine.

Something is wrong with the saw. Typically, a cs 400 with the muffler opened up is one of those under dogs that u can bury an 18 inch bar in hardwoods.

 

[STOVE]

Something is wrong with the saw. Typically, a cs 400 with the muffler opened up is one of those under dogs that u can bury an 18 inch bar in hardwoods.

It messed with the low jet a while back but I can’t recall why. It is back running well after my retune this morning.

Was bogging on the throttle pulls instead of being snappy.

 

[FergusonTO35]

The 400, and Echoes in general, don't like to run incredibly rich. There comes a point pretty quickly where you're just making fumes with no gain in performance. Even my ported CS-500P does best just a little richer than the service manual setting. Whereas it seems like Stihls and many old school saws are quite happy fogging it up like a choo choo train.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

After running the cs400 , I think the cat delet is almost mandatory!
I'd say that it runs very good for a 40cc saw , I'm running full chisel forester chain on an Oregon pro-bar . It definitely runs better than any stock ms180 I've run.

 

[FergusonTO35]

The 400 is my favorite Echo saw of all. My biggest problem with the catalyst is all that extra heat right next to the cylinder. Its strange how some Echo saws have it and others don't.

 

[dthieme]

Hello everyone, new member here. I haven’t yet read through the forum, but judging by the many pages of info, looks like there’s a lot of knowledgeable members. I’ve always loved chainsaws, but in the last month I found myself falling down the rabbit hole of porting. I recently acquired my first Echo saw - a very lightly used CS-800P. It seems to be very well built, but it doesn’t get on the pipe quite like my old Stihl 066. I’d like to try my hand at porting the saw and looking for some advice from people who have experience with this or similar models. I should preface this by saying my knowledge of porting and 2 stroke theory is still rudimentary, but I’m happy and eager to learn.

I opened the saw up this weekend. From my limited experience, the exhaust port seems small or narrow at the very least. The bridged upper transfers looked to be on the small side as well. The carburetor is tiny compared to my other big saws and not sure how I feel about the air filter setup. Lastly, the piston design is different than any of my other saws. It is a tall, full-skirt, two-ring, domed top piston. I don’t have the exact timing numbers with me (on my lunch break at work now) but I believe they were 106-EXH, 128-TFR, 146-INT and .040” squish clearance without the base gasket.

I have an idea what I’d like to do, but I’m also the kinda guy that can get carried away trying too much and doing more harm than good. For starters, I plan on doing a muffler mod and machining the base to tighten up the squish. I’d also like to fit an automotive style air filter on this saw (open to suggestions if anyone has some) and make a high top cover or use the existing cover and make a spacer. Depending on how the rest of the saw turns out, I might consider an 8T sprocket and a bar adapter on to run my Stihl bars.

So here is where I’m looking for advice from those of you with experience on building these Echos into a reliable “woods” or “work” ported saw. What modifications have yielded the biggest differences for you? What port timing numbers have any of you used and does anyone have pictures of their port jobs? I realize numbers aren’t everything, but this would give me a place to start. I’m assuming I’ll be raising the exhaust especially after machining the base to tighten the squish. Does it help to widen the exhaust a touch? What, if any, work have you done to the intake port? Are there any benefits to lunged intakes like on my Stihl 056?

For the lower transfers, do you typically just widen them to match the width of the piston window or does it also help to grind and shape the bottom of the transfers to flow better out of the case? I’m nervous about touching the upper transfers, but with the exhaust roof already so low, will I need to raise the uppers at all? At what point is it risking too much blowdown? With the transfers being bridged, would it help to widen them on the intake side?

Would it pay to look for a larger Walbro HDA series or similar carb? If so, will I need to make new linkages? How about changing ignition timing? Has anyone found a piston that swaps in this saw and performs better? Looks like a 281xp has the same bore and wrist pin diameter but the compression height and overall height is quite a bit different.

Lastly, I have a general porting question: at what point does it make more sense to raise/lower ports vs machining the piston? For example, when does it make more sense to machine the piston top vs machining the squish band, raising the exhaust, or raising the uppers. Likewise with machining the skirt vs lowering the intake? Do larger port cross sections hurt you in some instances because you’re sacrificing velocity?

Sorry for the long post, but I greatly appreciate any help and advice I can get and I’m excited to be a member of my first ever forum!

 

[FergusonTO35]

Welcome, friend. You may want to reach out to Kris at S&S Worksaws, he is a member here. Kris did a woods port and increased compression on my CS-500P and it turned out fantastic. He was doing a limited number of these for free + shipping cost to gain experience and get his name out there, maybe he still is doing that or could at least advise you on what to do. Here is the thread on it:

Thread 'Saw rebuild and/or porting. Apply within'

Jun 10, 2024

Good evening everyone.
Some of you may know me, most probably not. For the ones that don't know me, I have a small saw shop based out of a detached shop on my property. As of right now it's something I do in the evenings and weekends. I do a lot of rebuilds from the bare cases up. I also do cylinder machining, porting, custom muffler mods, timing advanced, oil pump mods, and other odds and ends stuff. Up to this point i have kept busy with local loggers in my area and have flipped a lot of saws I have gone through on eBay.
When it comes to the porting aspect I have dabbled in it for...

• S&S_Work_Saws
• Replies: 115
• Forum: Wanted: Builder/Porter

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