Duke's saw chain

[STOVE]

Anyone got any long term run time on the blue label?

Thinking about another 3 pack of 20”. No issues with the orange. Duke says there is some changes in the geometry but the metal is the same.

 

[jakethesnake]

I’m not sure which one I have but it’s been solid. Will buy more in the future.

 

[STOVE]

My latest sharpening effort. I go at it with 1/4 then a few strokes of a Pferd 2-1. Is there a way to restore that little beak on the stock grind?

 

[lehman live edge slab]

My latest sharpening effort. I go at it with 1/4 then a few strokes of a Pferd 2-1. Is there a way to restore that little beak on the stock grind?

View attachment 486494
View attachment 486495

About the only way I could think to do that is to take a new chain and profile a pink wheel to it for a grinder. Only other possible way to kind of do by hand is maybe a smaller round file to just cut the top of the tooth slightly.

 

[661joe]

Been running dukes chain and for the money it’s a no brainer. I always touch with a file every few tanks or at the end of the day. Great chain for the money.

 

[661joe]

I’ll add that the chains I’m running are the orange tripple packs. Very in size they are used daily in a tree service. Zero complaints

 

[Fords1791]

Been running dukes chain and for the money it’s a no brainer. I always touch with a file every few tanks or at the end of the day. Great chain for the money.

What Joe said.... best bang for the buck out there as far as chains go

 

[Maintenance Chief]

I got this for my echo top handle. The lp3/8 is some of the best I ever used.

 

[661joe]

Is the blue that much better than the orange?

 

[STOVE]

Is the blue that much better than the orange?

I think the metallurgy is the same, cutter profile is slightly different out of the box, same with raker shape.

After some file work they will both be the same

 

[Colonel 428]

I've mentioned this before...

- The "original" orange label chain is a copy of the Husqvarna xcut with the pronounced lip at the top. Very aggressive and great cutting chain out of the box.
- The "blue" label is a copy of the stihl RS chain. Less aggressive out of the box.

The Duke says the metal is the same for both chains. I much prefer the orange label chain for it's aggressiveness. But, once that lip has been filed away the chains become the same.

 

[jakethesnake]

Duke!

 

[Nutball]

Ok, my honest opinion since I saw a Duke's b&c a month ago.

The bar looks great, but the gauge was too wide, not as bad as some cheap bars, but not what it should be. I can't remember the measurements, but, maybe Duke can get the factory to tighten up the specs, if the factory is willing to. This detail is the main problem I have with cheaper bars, so I either plan on going up in chain gauge after a bit of use IF I buy a cheap bar, or I stick with top quality bars.

Cheap out on chain all you want, just not on bars.

As best as I can remember from comparing bars a few years ago, .003"+-.001" larger than the chain gauge is where you want the bar to start, and that without any paint in the groove. Less than .003" larger and the bar will run hot and risk seizing because saw chips have to have room between the drive links and rails; they will get wedged in there some way or another.

 

[Sloughfoot]

My latest sharpening effort. I go at it with 1/4 then a few strokes of a Pferd 2-1. Is there a way to restore that little beak on the stock grind?

View attachment 486494
View attachment 486495

You can get that beak with a double bevel file.

 

[davidwyby]

You can get that beak with a double bevel file.

Almost any file, I d used a raker file, or a grinder, side of the wheel.

 

[legdelimber]

If you don't keep a grinder wheel dressed to a radius.
After a while, the top plate of the cutter will wear back the area of the wheel that hits the top plate.
There's a lot longer grinding path in contact with metal where the top plate touches the wheel.

Think about it from side to side, not in how thick the plate is from top to bottom.

You'll actually begin to get a tooth that resembles that undercut look on the top plate, if you let the wheel go undressed.
Grab some rock damaged chains and rough grind them in, but don't dress the grinding wheel.
Don't dress up the rock yet...Now grab a chain that just needs a little touch up and grind a couple of teeth.
You might be surprised at what it's starting to resemble.

You'll be better off with a single point/diamond tool to try and create that profile on the grinding wheel though.

I used to freehand sharpen most of my brazed tooling and drill bits.
yeah, I had much better eyesight back then.